Update on the Epicurian Ways - the Madrid options all have to be part of a package that includes hotel, which I don't need so that is out. But, the woman (Jane Gregg) who has been emailing me has really gone above and beyond to answer all of my questions and even was kind enough to redirect me to another site when it was clear our dates and cities were not going to match up. Great customer service and I hope to be able to use one of her tours in the future.