Thanks Joe and RJF for your replies... finally got my patatas bravas in a bar near the Rastro on Sunday... just what I needed after a couple of hours browsing the market. I am now back home but I hope to return to Madrid in late April/early May....one thing...the estanque in the Retiro has been drained...shame as I had planned to have a drink in one of the bars next to it and watch the people rowing. I suppose all the maintenance work is done in the winter. Never mind, here's to the next trip!