My wife and I just returned last night from a 12-day trip to Madrid, Sevilla, and a few side trips. First I need to say that prior to leaving I read every posting on this site... I was actually trying to talk my wife into canceling the trip! There were so many safety issues, hostal/hotel issues that I was convinced that I needed a personal security guard... I am sorry that so many travelers have had problems...we had none except for the airlines... I could write several pages of comments about our trip(my first, my wife had actually stayed in Madrid during her college days)... the Hostal Chelo(and the host...Antonio) were as advertised...except that we had to climb about five flights of stairs to reach the facility all the while passing at least three hostals in the same staircase... Antonio says there will be an elevator sometime this year... the room was clean, SMALL, with a clean SMALL private bath... we should have asked for a room away from the street but I actually enjoyed the street noise the first night... Madrid only sleeps from 5:00 am until 8:30am after that either get with the flow or get out of the way... I think we saw all 4.5 million people in the first three hours of our visit... the tapas and beverages were great and very affordable... we spent 5 days in Seville and stayed at the Hotel Zaida(about $35/night) and a great find... the host Fernando was very helpful the rooms great and quiet... we walked almost the entire city over our stay... found great food/tapas/and cold beer.. side trips to Cordoba, Cadiz, and Jerez were a piece of cake... the trains are cheap,fast and very convenient... My goal was to buy a concert flamenco guitar and I found an exceptional one in Sevilla... we attended flamenco performances in Madrid and Sevilla only one in Sevilla was regretable... taxis are like flys in the summer you can't go two blocks without finding one... some tried to get extra fares but with our spanish we were able to keep them in line.... if you are in Sevilla you need to visit La Fabrica in the Plaza de Armas(an old train station) it is a brew-pub, making three types of beer, and they have the best tapas we found in Spain... even though all bars/food services have limited menues until 8:00pm we never suffered... this is getting too long but there are a lot of things we could share with you if you have inquiries... please know some spanish and have a phrase book as back-up if you are not conversant....