mclarke-
I'm afraid I won't be too much help in that department. This was 10 yrs. ago when I was in college and I and two friends(1 guy 1 girl) went there with no plans or anything. We were greeted when we got off the bus by a 20 something guy who played on the Tetuan soccer team. We had no intentions of getting a "guide" but this guy was really nice and he approached us and said that he wanted to practice his English and would we mind if he showed us around? He assured us that he didn't want anything in return, which he didn't. I'm sorry, but I don't even remember the name of the hotel we were in or where we ate or anything. He escorted us everywhere (we actually wanted to be just us at times so we could breathe and compare notes...but oh well, we considered ourselves to be fortunate)and one day he couldn't make it so he sent his cousin to the hotel in the morning to pick us up. One afternoon he took us to his house and we met his mom and his sisters and we ate couscous and that was a really wonderful experience. In Chefchauen we did the same thing(except for the family part) and we just had incredible luck and met nice people who just seemed to want to meet new people. I remember in Chefchauen we took a long walk up through the village to a hotel at the top of a hill and had a nice meal. Other than that, we just wandered around with them and drank tons of tea. Sorry this isn't much help. What I saw(which wasn't much) was beautiful and I plan on returning some day. All I can say is that you should stick together. Good luck and enjoy!
Jenny

[This message has been edited by Jen (edited 09-20-2000).]