Just back from three nights in the old town. Here's what I found.

Please note: Prices are based on literature provided by hotels but are, of course, subject to change. Promotional and group prices may be lower.

Meson del Rastro (HR**) A dive. Recommended in LP and at least one other guidebook. I'd reserved, hoping to compensate for other splurges with an inexpensive room. Up a narrow, dark, creaking stairway, my room looked as if it hadn't been painted in about a decade, the bed had a worn-out polyester spread, the armoire (the only piece of furniture) looked like someone had taken a baseball bat to it. Utterly depressing. I didn't even look at the bathroom. Fled immediately.

Hostal Don Diego (HR**) Wish I'd known about this place. White reception area and halls sparkle; stairs lined with bits of pottery and such. (There's a small elevator, too.) 12 simple, cheerful, spotless rooms with TV, tile floors, and private bath. Smaller rooms have shower stalls; others have full-size tubs. Prices range from 4,500 to 6,000 ptas. One block away from parador at Marques de Canales y Chozas 5; tel. 920-25-54-75; fax 920-25-45-49. Although there were no decals to this effect, reception assured me that they do take credit cards. Opened 5 years ago.

Hostal Arco San Vicente (HR**) Another good budget choice, with warm, friendly owners. A bit more sophisticated than D. Diego. 23 small, cheerful, tastefully appointed spotless rooms with TV and private bath. Some (e.g., 104) have a pleasant little terrace which have table and chairs in summer. Rooms on top floor have slanting ceilings with windows cut into them. The effect is rather pleasant, as some offer glimpses of the muralla and treetops. There's a garage and a lovely bar next door, which is where they serve breakfast (not included in room price). Prices from 5,300 to 8,000 ptas. Lopez Nunez 6; tel. 920-222-498. Opened 1998.

Hospederia La Sinagoga, a.k.a. Hosteria Belforad (HR**) What a find! Built on the ruins of a 15th-century synagogue, this is a visual delight, with very friendly and helpful staff. Stone, tile, exposed brick, wooden beams, and peach-colored textured walls throughout. Good-sized rooms incorporate elements of synagogue, such as arches and niches. My room (6,000 ptas.) had two twin beds, ample light-wood armoires, a tiny balcony, bathroom with bidet and full-size tub as well as permanent showerhead. The fabric of the bedspreads and curtains was beautiful, and the ceramic ashtray (burgundy background with yellow flowers) matched! The wall facing the beds had a small original niche with stone steps where they placed a huge vase with dried flowers, illuminated by a spotlight. The bathroom sink, with granite counter, was built into an original recess, framed by a stone arch. Very quiet, and great location: about three blocks from the cathedral in an alley off a pedestrian street. Excellent value. Prices for 2001: individual 6,600; double 9,790; suite 11,550. The only minor disappointment was the mediocre breakfast buffet (880 ptas.); however, as I had to leave early to catch a bus, I was grateful for the convenience. Reyes Catolicos 2; tel. 920-35-23-21; fax 920-35-34-74; e-mail lasinagoga@airtel.net. Opened last year.

Hosteria de Bracamonte (H**) 25 rooms. Visited only. Gorgeous. Friendly staff. Beautifully appointed rooms with tile floors and rugs, antiques, stone walls, exposed brick, wood beams, some fireplaces, and numerous elegant and colorful touches. "Character" and "atmospheric" are not euphemisms in describing this place. I was able to see only one room, a large double with fireplace. I'd assumed it was the most expensive, but no: It went for only 10,000 ptas. Excellent restaurant downstairs, where I dined twice (that'll be another post). Prices: 8,000 to 15,000 ptas. Bracamonte 6; tel. 920-25-12-80 or 19-04; fax 920-25-38-38.

Parador (H****). Here's where I fled to after the Rastro fiasco, since I'd had good experiences at two other paradores (Zamora and Cd. Rodrigo) this trip. No comparison. Public areas unexceptional. Floors covered in worn-out sisal runners that actually have holes in some places. My room (10,800 ptas.) was large but dreary, badly in need of a paint job. None of the aesthetic touces (antiques, beautiful fabrics, etc.) that I found at other paradores. Good-sized tile bathroom, but when I turned on the shower, the head flew off like a projectile. The whole place needs an overhaul. My experience at the restaurant was so horrendous, I cannot even bring myself to write about it here. I was so turned off that I didn't even ask to tour other rooms. The reception staff, however, is quite pleasant and courteous. Nonetheless, my verdict is: Don't waste your money.

Hotel Palacio de los Velada (H****) Visited only. Recommended in all guidebooks, but I wouldn't spend my money here. Rude reception staff. Expensive. Rooms visually uninteresting: floral polyester bedcovers, no pleasing decorative elements, rather antiseptic. All modern conveniences, of course. In fairness, some rooms do have nice views (it's located right by the cathedral), but I don't think they're worth the money: single 16,000; double 19,000; "weekend special" 11,950 & 13,900. You might want to check out their dining-drinking area located in the palace's central courtyard; it's very attractive. (If only the rooms followed this aesthetic.) However, I myself did not eat or drink there. There's a tiny restaurant with a very interesting menu, but I was so put off by the rudeness of the staff that I didn't dine there.

Palacio Valderrabanos (H****) Recommended in all guidebooks, and I can only wonder why. (Maybe for half the price...) I was scheduled to spend two nights here but fled after one. I can easily imagine that 20 years ago this must have been THE place to stay, but we're talking very faded glory here. The reception staff, however, is impeccable: This is how all should be, the very definition of gentlemanliness. My room (10,200, including breakfast) had floral wallpaper that was in serious need of replacement, thin wall-to-wall carpeting covered with cigarette burns, and rather abused furniture. The dropped ceiling at the entrance had sustained serious water damage and was actually rotting in places. The bathroom had an old, full-size permanently stained tub with paper-thin fabric shower curtain and one of those flimsy showerheads that hang from a hook and fly all over the place when you turn on the water. The cover of the toilet seat was broken. Public areas were dark and depressing, with worn-out carpeting. The breakfast buffet consisted of cold scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage (which I assume were cold, too, since they were right next to the eggs), stale donuts, orange juice, mediocre coffee, whole oranges and apples. The only good thing was the delectably fresh mini-croissants.

In my opinion, this is one town where the four-star joints are best avoided.




[This message has been edited by leuci (edited 12-11-2000).]

What amazingly complete and helpful descriptions!! that's a real service to us all. I'm really curious about the bad meal in the parador, though (I have had almost nothing but great meals in paradores). When you can bring yourself to write about it, please do!! (reading about your experiences is interesting, so feel free to expound...)

WOW!!! How many times you people surprise me with your completeness of description, detail, and experiences. Thank you leuci!!!!!!! <shaking my head in total amazement> Leuci, you and many of our other dedicated members make this message board what it has become. I can't thank you enough for helping others improve their future Spain experiences.

With many thanks, MadridMan (rgf, THANKS for - you know!!)

um... a really good post?

We stayed at the Palacio de los Velada at the end of October and had a thoroughly pleasant time. In fact, it was one of the best hotel experiences I've ever had.

I found the staff to be quite friendly and helpful, and almost everyone we dealt with had a good sense of humor. The courtyard is absolutely tranquil and the rooms are gracious, well appointed and tastefully decorated. The breakfast buffet was wonderful.

Sure, it's a bit pricey, but we thought it was well worth it!

Glad you had a good experience. Insofar as staff, it may have been (bad) luck of the draw in my case. I went there twice, because the first time they didn't have anyone available to show me around. (They finally foisted me on a bellhop--how professional is that?) And when I returned from the tour to ask some follow-up questions, the reception guy actually turned his back on me while I was still talking and went into the back room.

Guess the crabs were on duty that day--and I'm not just saying that. For example, I had a real jekyll-hyde experience at the Zamora parador. The weekend staff could not have been more delightful. The two guys that replaced them on Monday could most charitably have been described as surly. If I'd met only them, well...

BTW, it would be ideal if all journalists wrote only about those places where they'd actually stayed. (I've always indicated if I just visited or actually spent the night.) Spending the night, particularly if the staff doesn't know you're a journalist, is the only way to get a true picture. The reality is that when you're required to write up several lodgings for a given location, most of the info is going to be based simply on a visit, and this is true of some guidebooks, too.

I always told staff at places where I only visited that I was a journalist, and presented my card. You can tell a lot about a place by how they handle these situations. If they can't even get it together for a journalist, I gotta wonder....

Aesthetic judgments are, of course, purely personal, and the rooms I saw had nothing distinctive about them nor did I perceive any special luxury commensurate with the prices being charged relative to other comparable hotels I saw on this trip.

[This message has been edited by leuci (edited 12-12-2000).]

this place looks lovely, but I just realized that this hotel is NOT in Madrid.