If anyone has an interest in Bullfighting , Flamenco and / or Spanish history a real great alternative to the regular tourist route is the massive cemetery of Nuestra Señora de la Almudena . Europe's largest graveyard ( estimated 5 million have been buried here ) . The great torero 'Yiyo' , killed by a bull in the 80s , is there with a statue as well as a famous female bullfighter ( the first woman fighter ) . The legendary flamenco singer Lola Flores has her statue here too next to that of her son Antonio Flores ( rock star ) . Graves of members of the División Azúl are there as well as a fenced of mass grave dedicated to the German Luftwaffe that helped Franco in the Civil War ( complete with swastikas ! ) and many many others . Before the Civil War an estimated 2,500 people were executed against the cemetery walls by firing squad , including the '13 roses' who were a group of women who defended Socialist ideals . There is an office by the side of the massive entrance where you can get a map of the graveyard . If you want to take photos you must get a permit and you are generally told that no names on the headstones should be photographed . Security guards roam around to enforce that but I've never seen anybody caught . It's a very impressive place with nice view over parts of Madrid . It's address is Avenida Daroca 90 .. Metro Elipa .. You could also get off at Metro Ventas by the bullring and take the 20 minute or so walk over the M30 , which is what I used to do . By the way I got approached by 3 women outside the gates who saw me taking photos of the gates themselves ( not a problem ) , but they wanted an assurance from me that I would not take photos inside without permission . I had already done so ( not realising the rules ) , but they can get very forceful about this point .

After all these years, I've never been to this cemetery, but the photos make it look amazing. I've only been to the San Isidro cemetery and, it too, truly is incredible, old, and with some impressive mausoleums into some of which you can actually enter - or go UNDERGROUND! Yikes!

Saludos, MadridMan

"If you want to take photos you must get a permit and you are generally told that no names on the headstones should be photographed."

Steve any idea where to start for a permit?

Bill

i know it well Steve, used to lived 4 yrs around there in metro quintana back then we took the P13 bus, no metro elipa then lol!! You are making me old ::)

MM, if you want to go together, I would love to check it out when I return to Madrid in March. So, wait for me! I will go with you. It sounds fascinating!

Bill , there's a very modern office set up just to the right hand side of the cemetary entrance which provides info on the famous graves / tombs .. including basic maps . They provide the permits as I understand .. maybe for a small fee .
For visitors there are also very clean , modern bathrooms in that centre .. always something to bear in mind to make life more comfortable .
That area of Madrid is very different to other areas .. more distant from El Centro ... but has some interesting looking bars to investigate !

MM, I will be in Madrid the last weekend of March. So I am wondering if you free on Saturday morning the 31st to go to the cemetery? (haha! that is a funny question, I know) Maybe some other members would like to join us too?

Bill - You can get the permit at the cemetery before you go in . To the right hand side of the huge cemetery entrance gates there is an administration office ( very modern with very clean bathrooms for visitors ) . They can provide you with a map of the cemetery ( basic but OK ) and , for a small fee , a permit to take photos in the cemetary . ( I don't recall the cost )
I really think that if you use general common sense and respect .. that you'll be fine despite the rules of not taking direct photos of headstones . Of course , if a burial is taking place then steer well clear of the mourning family . I'm sure that 90 pct of us ( and all those board members i've had the pleasure of meeting in Madrid ) would take that as given anyway !
I found , for example , that i could not miss the opportunity of taking photos of swastikas on one set of graves and that may have included a few names on headstones ... but , even for the Luftwaffe dead , there was no lack of respect intended from my part .. simply an interest in history .
As I 've mentioned , before , there are security guards who WILL enforce the regulations ( It's their job ! ) and the many pious women that assemble around the cemetery entrance will take exception to you breaking the rules .... You know what they say about the wrath of a woman ( ? ) .... multiply it by 10 for a Spanish woman !

"... i could not miss the opportunity of taking photos of swastikas on one set of graves and that may have included a few names on headstones ... but , even for the Luftwaffe dead , there was no lack of respect intended from my part .. simply an interest in history . "

My last visit to Lisbon was last year at the same time I visited Madrid/Barcelona. I decided to visit Lisbon most famous cemetery and found it was interesting visit. The B&B I was staying at mention the British cemetery was like two blocks away from the B&B. So I went.

During my visit I came across a set of five graves lined in a perfect row. The graves were of a British bomber crew that died and because of the date it was during WWII. Four of the crew die the same day and beside their names was their position on the bomber. The fifth grave was the radioman, he died three months later. I stood in front of the graves wondering how the crew died and why did the radio man died three month later. I would not share (post on the internet) those few photos I shot as I shot them for history, my history so I would not forget.

I love visiting cemeteries all over the world. My three favorites are the Almudena in Madrid, Pere Lacheise in Paris and Cemeterio de Colon in La Habana. When I was a young student I went to Pere Lachaise once with a philosophy professor trying to explain to us the meaning of life from an existentialist point of view. We stood at a corner where four tombs were facing each other, I believe it was Honore de Balzac in one corner, Oscar Wilde in another, Camile Pisarro on the third and on the fourth corner laid the remains of an unknown homeless person. Our professor then drove home the point that no matter what we achieve in life and how high we are in the pedestal of society, we all end up basically in the same place. This was one of the many driving forces behind me retiring at age 45, and becoming a traveling bum, lol