The two remaining pilgrims in my group (me and my amigo) stayed the nights of May 17 and 18 in the five-star parador "
Hostal dos Reis Catolicos " in Compostela. Here's my review, along with some rumor dispelling:
The hotel is impressive. The staff is meticulous, friendly and very professional. Sometimes, a little too professional (stuffy), but overall quite accomodating.
The room we had (a double, number 216) was ample, but not the suite I had envisioned. Those seemed to be up a floor or two and probably would've been double our price. It had two VERY comfortable beds, a small sitting area with antique Queen Anne chairs and a dark oak table. The two window recesses (stone) had double inward-opening windows with tapestry treatments. Our window looked onto the corner where the Archbishop's palace is located (left side of the cathedral).
The bathroom: Whatever size was "not ample" in the sleeping area was compensated for in the palacial bathroom. More than enough room to set up shop, get clean, and relax. A full complement of "amenities" and the largest bath towels I've seen in Spain (apparently laundered with fabric softener) were another added bonus!
The hallways and public areas: A museum. The courtyards are beautifully kept, and we had a great self-guided tour of the entire hotel. Some of the conference rooms were like chapels, with altarpieces, carved arches, decorated ceilings, etc. In one of the meeting rooms, there were twelve chairs situated around a meeting table and I thought for sure King Arthur had booked the room! Stone spiral staircases were available for transit between floors.
The dining areas: We really only went to the upstairs (2nd floor) breakfast area, but were greeted with the most complete (and tasty!) breakfast buffet I've ever seen in either the new or old world. Hams, chorizos, cheeses (from five regions), fresh fruit, cereals, bolleria, juices, milk, yogurt, eggs, tortilla (!), etc., etc., were in abundant supply. I was in desayuno heaven!
About being a pilgrim and "eating and staying gratis": You are NOT entitled to three nights lodging at the parador. This was discontinued years ago. You ARE entitled to breakfast, lunch and dinner free, but not in the main dining areas, and only if you're one of the first ten pilgrims each day, have arranged the eats with the conciérge, and have a credential. The food served to you is good, but is what is served the personnel, and is eaten at the dining area down the cuesta towards the garage. I spoke with my friend Paulino Buján, who is reception staff at "el Hostal" (he was promoted from kitchen staff since I last saw him in 1988...!), and he is the source of this infomation.
Overall impression: I promised my wife that we would stay there on our next trip. This was a wonderful experience, not because the rooms were the biggest I've seen, or that the food was the best, but because the "experience" was the best. The ambience, feel and history of this location is second to none. I would strongly recommend this accomodation to ANYONE. Where else can you look out your window and see the cathedral, walk downstairs and step into the Obaradoiro plaza, and share lodgings with the departed souls of hundreds of weary pilgrims who for 500 years have received lodging thanks to the Reyes Católicos and their generosity in building the hospital.
Two more things: Juan Carlos and Sofía stay there "at least annually" according to Francisco the conciérge. I can only assume they didn't have room 216; and making the reservation through the general Madrid location (
www.parador.es ) is faster than going direct to the parador, although not necessary.