Ok. Another holiday question......

Can anyone confirm the date and festivities that occur during this festival? Some books say Sept 18 and others say Sept 19.

Also, is the festival only in Oviedo or all of Asturius?

Thanks in advance.

The festival is on Sept. 19th and isn't in Oviedo. It's located in the small mountain village of Salahora de Aquí. Check out the flash website at www.salahora.es

Thanks again CaliBasco - I'll owe you one whenever we get an LA group together!

I don't know if I want to collect on that or not! Did you click the link?

Nope. I got a bad gateway signal from work. Now you've got my curiosity.

I'll give you a hint:

"sal" is a command form of the verb "salir", and "ahora" is now.

D'you still want to "owe me one"?

CaliBasco [Quien disfruta mucho de tomarselo el pelo a algunos]

Here's a real link: Día de América

It is in Oviedo on Sept. 19th. Are you going???

You are so bad.....sending me in all kinds of directions!

I had planned on spending 2 nights in Santander, Sept 18-19 (visiting Llanes on a day trip) and 2 nights in Leon, Sept 20-21.

However, I could cut one of the stays short a night and travel to Oviedo in between for a night. I could even visit Llanes along the way...Would public transportation be sparse on that day? Is it worth it? If so, which cities would you cut the stay short on Santander or Leon?

The 19th is my birthday so it would be alot of fun celebrating in Oviedo.

Transportation is sparse any day in Asturias. For the most part, you're at the mercy of the bus schedule. The local Alsa busline is good, and if I remember correctly, runs fairly regularly between Uvieu and Santander.

Back when I actually lived in Asturias, there was a narrow-gauge rail system called FEVE. They're still around FEVE and their website gives you good route maps and information. The route from Santander to Uvieu takes about 4½ hours.

CaliBasco,

Can you be bothered to give your personal impression/opinion of Asturias?

I ask because a good friend here in California is from Oviedo (well, a little outside) and she's likely getting married next year. The whole gang here in the States will be trekking back for yet another wedding in España. I’ve been to Spain quite a few times -- including the north -- but never over to Asturias.

This board has been a great source of candid, personal opinions. Thanks in advance ... if you have the time!

(Or, if anyone else has an opinion this post isn't exclusively for CaliBasco.)

I consider Asturias to be one of the few places on earth that delivers what it advertises. The slogan they've been using for more than a decade now is "paraíso natural", and that's exactly what it is.

Asturias, to me, has everything I could want in a location: majestic mountains, beautiful beaches, hearty history (it's the oldest Christian part of Spain...), raging rivers, etc.

There's a plaque just outside of Segovia in the the little town called Zomorrostro that reads "No conozco a nadie que habiéndose acercado a este lugar, no haya sido conquistado por su sorprendiente vista". That plaque applies to the whole of Asturias, cities included.

Asturias is a don't miss destination for those who truly love natural beauty. Additionally, the asturianos are typically open, friendly, and helpful. Since tourism from outside isn't as common in Asturias as say, Andalucía, they treat you more like family and less like a commodity.

I spent five fine months there years ago and always long to go back. Some great places to include on an itinerary are: Covadonga (and the two alpine lakes Enol and Ercina), Cangas de Onís, the many "arte rupestre" caves (even though Altamira is pretty much off-limits, there are others), Gijón, Luarca, Laredo, etc.

There are seriously a thousand different places to visit. One of the most beautiful drives I've ever taken was the west-to-east drive from Lugo to Santander, following the "main" road through Asturias. Breathtaking.

JJP: I hope this suffices as an "opinion"...Give a moose a muffin...

Next to Barcelona for me, Asturias is BEAUTIFUL. I reminded my of the Central Coast of California. We stayed in Llanes(I think that's how it's spelled). It is a beautiful city. The Asturian cuisine is mmmm...mmmmm good.The c(s)idra is great to drink and an art to watch being poured. I especially enjoyed eating the chorizo en cidra. I understand that Asturias is the one area of Spain that was never controlled by the Moors. Although I didn't go there I understand that Gijon is also beautiful. We also enjoyed a dish called Fabada. The only thing that was a little strong for me was this cheese called.....I can't remember but you'll know it when you smell it.
Is this another Spanish/American uniting? I love to hear those love stories:)

CaliBasco

Yes, that post definitely sufficed ... and so quick! Thanks again.

toddy,
It's great to finally find a thread where we're not at each other's throats! Thanks for your experiences re Austurias.

And yes, “Fabada Austuriana” is simply divine ... although truly to be avoided in hot weather! The soon to be bride makes her famous fabada every year during the winter.

Even though we disagree [elsewhere], we agree [here]. That's why I like this board. Thanks to all for your posts...wherever they are on the board.

Hola Toddy,
The name of the cheese is Cabrales and you can buy it via Tienda.com . It is indeed a strong cheese , but if you acquire the taste, none better!

I'm still trying to get the taste. I buy it at La Española but still like my monchego better. However, I also buy cidra, and after a "few" of those basos, EVERYTHING tastes great!

viva Asturias y los Amores!

Now I'm really excited.

Since I started this thread I thought I'd update you on my itinerary:

I rearranged everything so that I could still stay 2 nights each in Santander and Leon AND make it to Oviedo for 1 day and night on September 19th. So I'll be there for the festival and get to experience more time in this part of Spain.

Thanks to all for sharing a little about Asturius. It's hard to find alot of information about the area. And I've got to try the cheese (I love strong blue cheese, is it similar) and definately the cider!

If the local bus service in Asturius doesn't reach the village you want to go to, you can always hitch a ride on the donkeys heading in your direction. Use caution though, since most of the paths are only as wide as the biggest ass in town.

As CaliBasco can confirm, when there's a festival in one of the villages, most of the people in surrounding towns sit on their asses until they reach the town, then they get off their asses long enough to celebrate and go home, with their asses on automatic pilot. Still, you must be careful, because it's possible that a tired ass will fall over the edge of a cliff and you won't have an ass to sit on.

Wolf (Who has been checking around Asturius to see if anyone has a picture of CaliBasco's ass. The one he rode to all the festivals - )

I have to say something about Asturias:

IT´S THE BEST PLACE ON EARTH!

If you have the opportunity you should go... you´ll love it!! Landscapes, people, parties... it has it all!

Guada

ps: I want to hear your opinion in case you go!!

Wolf: I put the ASS in ASSturiASS...

Hi, I am so excited to find these message boards! I've been to some others, but couldn't find any info on Asturias or Cantabria. I'm planning my first trip to Spain for next March, and wonder if anyone could help me out a little. I'll be travelling alone, and besides Madrid & Barcelona, I want to go somewhere beautiful and un-touristy where I can practice the Spanish I'm trying to learn. After looking through the guidebooks and reading all the messages here, I've definitely decided on Asturias & Cantabria. Does anyone have any opinions or information on the towns of Ribadesella, Luarca or Cudillero? I'm looking for somewhere to kick back and relax and enjoy the scenery. My partying days are over, so lack of nightlife is not a problem. I'm thinking of staying in one of these towns for 3 or 4 nights (any accomodation recommendations would also be greatly appreciated) and then staying a few nights in Santillana del Mar. Does this sound like a reasonable plan? Are there local buses to get around on from these small towns? Or will I have to get some ass?
Can I rent a car anywhere in this area? Santillana del Mar perhaps?
Any and all advice is appreciated! Thanks!

CathyM, I had this information bookmarked on my computer from my last visit. Hope this helps...

Cabrales
This Spanish blue cheese is made from a blend of cow's, sheep's, and goat's milk. That milk comes from animals that graze in high, remote pastures in the Asturian region of Cabrales, located in the Picos de Europa Mountains of northern Spain. The cheese is made by artisans in this area and aged for three to six months in natural limestone caves. Cabrales has a very intense blue flavor, and its veining is very dark and prominent. It is slightly more crumbly in texture than Roquefort. The wheels of cheese are often wrapped in maple, oak, or sycamore leaves before being wrapped in foil and sent to market. For blue cheese lovers, this is definitely one to try.

Manchego
Manchego is Spain's most famous cheese. Produced in La Mancha in Central Spain, true Manchego is made from 100% sheep's milk. Cheeses from Spain are commonly made from sheep's milk because most of the territory is rocky and dry, unfriendly to cows but suitable to raising goats and sheep. The abundance of wild herbs on Central Spain's grazing lands gives Manchego a special taste and aroma. Its flavor is zesty and exuberant while its texture is firm and somewhat dry. Manchego can be recognized by the zigzag pattern etched into its rind. This is created by the rippled surface of the press used in the manufacture of the cheese. Underneath the inedible rind, the interior is ivory colored with few small holes. Taste Manchego for the first time and you will be surprised at how long the wonderful flavor lingers on your palate. It is an experience you will be drawn back to again and again.

Garrotxa
This goat's milk cheese was once produced solely in the Garrotxa area of Catalonia. This is the area of Pyrenees region of Spain that is furthest to the East, lying right on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Garrotxa has a white interior with a very creamy texture that is surrounded by a natural mold rind. It has an unusual but mild flavor with a light acidity and a hint of hazelnuts. It melts very smoothly, but we like to eat it out of hand. It is sure to become a new Spanish favorite.

Iberico
This is a Manchego-style cheese made from blended cow, goat and sheep's milk. It is made in the same type of mold and, therefore, has the same, hatched pattern imprinted into its rind. One of the most popular in Spain, this hard, oily cheese is mild, yet tasty and aromatic. The blend of milks allows it to have the grassier, herbier flavors of the goat and sheep's milk toned down by the smoothness of cow's milk. It is typically used as a table cheese but is also good for cooking and pairs well with Spanish red wines and Spanish meats, such as Chorizo and Jamon Serrano.

Idiazabal
This handmade, unpasteurized sheep's milk cheese comes from the Spanish Pyrenees. Idiazabal is naturally smoked with a hard but edible orange-brown rind. In the old days, Basque shepherds lived in small mountain huts and had no space to store and age their cheeses other than inside their stone chimneys. As it turned out, people enjoyed the smoky flavor that the cheese acquired from aging inside the chimneys, and Idiazabal spread throughout Spain. Today, Idiazabal is produced in more modern facilities, but the process is still all-natural. The cheese is as delicious as ever, and the quality is more consistent. We love its perfumy bouquet and rich, buttery flavor and enthusiastically recommend Idiazabal as one of Spain's greatest cheeses.


Los Tornos
This Spanish cheese, like many other Spanish cheeses, is made from a mixture of sheep and goat's milk. These flavorful milks give the cheeses a tangy, nutty flavor that is reflective of the herbs and grasses that the animals eat while grazing the dry Spanish countryside. The cheese is aged to develop a dry, crumbly texture with a slight graininess like Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano. This cheese is perfect for grating but is also nice as a table cheese.

Mahon
Mahon is produced on the Mediterranean island of Menorca in the Balearics. Although it is a small island, Menorca produces enough cheese to make Mahon Spain's second most popular cheese next to Manchego. A 100% cow's milk cheese, Mahon comes in large squares of about 6 pounds. Ripened in underground caves for at least 4 months, Mahon has a bold, magnificent flavor that could never be called mild. The yellowish-orange rind conceals a soft, slightly salty and decidedly spicy interior. This unique cheese is a must try for any cheese lover and an absolute necessity for the true connoisseur.

Queso de Cabra
Cabra, a Spanish goat's milk cheese, was created in the fabled La Mancha region of Spain where Cervantes' Don Quixote rode out upon his quest; and where centuries earlier, Roman armies made an extensive encampment. La Mancha's rich variety of grasses, shrubs and abundant wild herbs give this cheese a taste and aroma that could only come from the Spanish heartland. In the Middle Ages the Arab invaders, dismayed by the dryness of the region, dubbed it "Al Mansha", meaning arid. They never imagined the harsh climate could produce much at all, let alone such an extraordinary cheese. Today, its distinctive lemony-peppery flavor and supple satiny body have earned Cabra a place among Spain's elite cheeses.

Queso de Cabra al Vino
Like its cousin Queso de Cabra, this cheese is made from pasteurized goat's milk in La Mancha region of Spain. This region has a rich variety of grasses, shrubs, and wild herbs on which the goat's graze to give the cheese a distinctive taste and aroma. The unique feature of this cheese is that it is washed in red wine during ripening. The wine deeply tints the cheese, giving the rind its characteristic burgundy color and imparting a strong floral bouquet. This cheese is a real gem. It not only has a bold, delicious flavor, it has the intoxicating aroma of a good bottle of wine.

Tetilla
Tradition lies at the heart of such delights as Tetilla Cheese, which is made in the farming and dairy producing land of Galicia. The pride of the land where it was created, the secret of this cow's milk cheese has been passed down from generation to generation. This soft cheese is hand formed into the shape of a woman's nippled breast! In Spain, people revere this cheese and assert that it "tastes like kisses." It has an elastic, creamy texture and a mild, tangy flavor. The public image and presence of Tetilla Cheese makes it one of the most original products of the Galician dairy industry. Tetilla is a D.O. cheese, meaning that its production is controlled by the Spanish Government, a status reserved for only select "Quesos Tradicionales."

Tronchon
Tronchon is a very small village in the southeastern part of Spain's wild and mountainous Teruel province. The town and its surrounding area has an age-old tradition of raising sheep and goats in mixed herds. This tradition led to the creation of Tronchon cheese, which is made from a blend of goat, sheep and cow milk. This uniquely volcano-shaped cheese is beautiful and delicious. With its smooth, buttery, fresh flavor and springy texture, Tronchon is a longtime family favorite in Spain. It goes great with green Spanish olives and a fruity red Rioja.

Is it a myth that Cabrales making involves worms?
(I'm still an Asturian tourist)

Interesting question - does anyone truly know about the worm?

This cheese lover admits artisans occasionally use stomach-churning techniques…...

Idiazabal cheese is delicious! I sat there in 1999 and watched Veronica make it by hand on her stove top, cheesecloth and all. That's the way to do it! I must admit, though, JJP, that was the cheesiest post I think I've ever seen on this board.

Amphitrite: I suggest Luarca as a nice quiet place to "kick back". If you want to miss the crowds, then March is the time to do it. Asturias doesn't seem to get the overflow of tourists anyway, as I mentioned prior. You should find any of the small resort towns on the coast to be to your liking. [I'm not a "nightlifer" either...just like eating good food.]

Note: The Spanish in Asturias is slightly modified and called "bable". There are specific characteristics that make it unique, but none of them should pose any major obstacle to you working on perfecting your own speaking abilities. If you want to try on some bable for size, click here .

touché, CaliBasco

Amphitrite, I was in Ribadesella last month. You may have seen my post under the Favorite Places section. (If not, it's here ). I really loved it. If you go, I'd recommend staying in one of the mansions on the beach, Playa de Santa Marina. (Check here to see the hotels.) You'll pay very little for a beautiful place in March, but I also would imagine it'll be very, very quiet then. A great place to have breakfast (or a snack later in the day) is the salon de té / confitería Nerian, on the main road to the beach, on the beach side of the bridge. Asturias really is a wonderful place. I'm sure you'll love it.

Thank you Calibasco & Diane for your help! I'm so excited about this area! It's looking like Ribadesella is winning at the moment, but I will definitely spend a day in Luarca. I still need to do more research, so I may bug you guys with some more questions later...
Thanks again!

JJP:
Thanks for the very detailed cheese information - everything I wanted to know but was afraid to ask!

I've been dieting all summer but when I'm on vacation I'm going to enjoy it ALL!

CathyM,

You're welcome ... although I can't take all the credit. It was mostly a cut-and-paste job. Nevertheless, I've tried most all the cheeses on my post and thought the descriptions were accurate.

I just have to tell you that you'll have an amazing experience in España. Of all the countries I've been to, Spain ranks very near the top (South Africa giving Spain a very serious run for its money).

And if you're a cheese fanatic like I am you'll be in heaven. Spanish cheeses are wonderful! I've never brought any back to the US, but if you search this board I know there are a few good threads on US Customs and personal importation of food items.

Again, have an excellent time on your vacation, CathyM. You're in for a great trip!

I think no one should visit Asturias looking for sheer fun; this is not Ibiza. Neither you will find “glamour” here; this is not Venice, either. But it is worth the visit. The landscapes are great, if you dare leave the broad roads and explore the countryside. It is not hard to find tiny villages which maintain traditional arquitecture (“paneras”-barns on pillars), and traditional crops (apple trees and corn). As for the cities, don`t miss Uviéu, if you like art; this is maybe the only city all over Western Europe which reached its best in the IX th century – this means, the monuments, the city walls and the organization of the streets downtown were raised in that time. Asturias was by then an independent kingdom, and you can still see the treasures of the twelve Asturian kings in La Cámara Santa (the holy chamber) as much as their graves, by the cathedral. As an abstract, the appeals to come here are:
-Wildlife and landscapes; You can enjoy trekking, climbing...even caving (in the limestone caves in the East) See Somiedo at
http://www.iespana.es/imagenlmrv/somiedo/index.html
and la Senda del oso (the bear path) at
http://www.ctv.es/teverga/frames.htm
-Food; not only fabada is great. Try fabes con almejes (beans with clams), escalopines al cabrales (steaks with blue cheese sauce) and, as a desert, frixuelos (pronounced “freeshoo-elos”, crepes)
-Tradition; craftmanship (“Llamas del Mouro” pottery, “Taramundi” handmade jacknives) and popular music (including folk festivals in summer and bagpipe parades from time to time)
-Art: Prerromanesque buildings are (in my opinion) awesome. There is not any equivalent display of art from that time (IX th century) anywhere in W. Europe See it at http://www.ctv.es/USERS/acabiedes/home.htm
Here I leave a couple of interesting links
http://www.asturies.org/belenos/memoriacelta/
Memoria celta is a site about Asturian inheritance in four languages. It deserves an exploration
http://www.infoasturias.com/ Infoasturias supposedly provides information about turism
http://www.asturies.org/viesca/gaita/ A great site about the Asturian bagpipe
http://www.siemprenorte.com/Castros/histdes.htm
A bit of information about the most famous Asturian hillfort (castro) from the Iron Age

Bienveníu Cristobo,
Can you recommend a good book in Spanish or English about the history of Asturias? I am particularly interested about the early celtic and roman settlements. I have found a couple of good websites in the Internet, some are downright fantastic, but I would like to read a book if there is one that you can recommend to me.
Gracies

Cristobo - you are a super ambassador for Asturias! The links and photos, especially the pic in a different thread, are incrediable! Am looking forward to your response to Booklady - then I'm running out and getting it!

Oh, c`on, you`re pulling my leg! This is quite flattering.
I always enjoyed when foreigners discovered Asturias, I`ve felt it as a victory over the media and the stereotypes, since we are such an "invisible" land, and no one cares much about us.
As to books over Asturian history, I`ve tried it, really, but I give up. I have even asked a true historian, but she says our "dear" scholars from Oviedo University aren`t able to write a word worth to be read.
A few years ago there was an interesting display in Xixón about the asturi, our far ancestors, and the Roman conquest. In that occasion, a handbook about the matter was published, and everyone agrees it is the best ever made about it. I don`t know if you can manage to find it: "Astures: Pueblos y culturas en la frontera del Imperio Romano. Catálogo de la Exposición" In any case, DON`T BUY anything from Mr.Santos Yanguas. You`d waste your money. AS far as I know, no English-speaker ever bothered to write anything concerning Asturias, except James Fernandez Mackintlock (or something like that) from Chicago, due to his Asturian-Irish ancestry
I hope all this can help you See ya!

Well, wait a minute
I hope no one regards this like spamming (I don`t get a buck out of it), but...
You can check my site, in it you can download free a book about Asturian mythology, comparing it with lots of ancient sources and other traditions from other European countries. To a certain extent, it is a History book.
http://www.geocities.com/mouguias
you can download the whole of the book in the Spanish and French version, or ch. 1 and 3 in English

Cristobo, I wonder if you could tell us the origin/reason for pouring sidra at arm's length? There sure is a lot of cider on the ground in Asturias. We were in Ribadesella on the day of the international canoe races this summer--not a good day to see the town, but a great day to drive along the river, traffic jam and all, to see the race. The town smelled of spoiled cider, and it was the rowdiest party I've ever seen in Spain, mostly kids in their early 20's drinking too much and falling down. Anyway, I'd love to hear the origin of the long distance cider pouring.

The reason why they pour it at arm`s length is easy: otherwise, it would get flat inmediately. Instead, you can drink it as some sort of "champagne", full of bubbles...if that is the accurate word.
I don`t know who first did it, nor why did he (or she) had such an idea, but I know it is quite a recent tradition, from the early years of the XXth century I believe.
I regret you didn`t enjoy at the piraguas from Ribadesella. So far I had heard say only that was a great feast...mainly from people in their early twenties...
See ya

Let's make sure and continue the stereotypes...that way, when I go to Asturias, it will be as pristine and beautiful as the last time I went...I love Asturias. Of course, one of my favorite refranes asturianos is:

"Con fabes i sidrina non fai falta gasolina..."

Watching the sidreros do the aeration-pouring thing is truly amazing! In the words of Victor Manuel: Asturies, si yo pudiera cantarle... I love Asturias!

I just wanted to follow up and say that I am so glad that I visited Oviedo for the Day of the Americas celebration. In fact, I immediately wished I had planned for time in Oviedo and exploring Asturius. There's not alot of detail written about the area but I was enchanted by the city, the food was great (not to mention the incredible cheese) , the countryside was very traditional, and the people were very friendly. This is an area that I would absolutely love to explore in depth. Oviedo was definately not spoiled by mass tourism and it was just so very clean and charming.

Thanks for all of the posts on this thread prior to my trip.