You may want to buy a detailed map from the Instituto Geográfico Nacional .

Another good source of information could be:

La Tienda Verde
Maudes, 23 y 38
28003 Madrid
Tel: 91 535 38 10 /
91 5330791

Hope this helps,

Antonio

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The best tips from your favourite hostal in Madrid.
Hostal Chelo at http://www.chelo.com

[This message has been edited by Antonio (edited 10-31-2000).]

I'd like to buy a map, but I would prefer some first-hand accounts of the 'feel' of the road, not just some topographic, colored cartography.

Has anyone on this board ever traveled the Camino de Santiago? Tell me what it was like, as I'd like to add some of your reflections to what I should expect in 2002.

Hi! My husband and I did la ruta a few years back. You will find every surface imaginable. We traveled paved highways, paved trails, dirt trails, muddy trails, gravel, rocks, grass, cobblestone, to practically boulders! I would say 70% of the trails/roads were great, 20% okay, and 10% down right nasty. There was one portion that was uphill and rocky. We had to walk that part to say the least. Many times you can choose to take the highway but you will miss much of the intended scenery. I purchased many books but because of space we only used "Rutas a Pie, El Camino De Santiago" published by El Pais Aguilar. It shows some of the trails' surfaces and explains what you may encounter on each etapa (stage). I took a hybred bike and my husband had a mountain bike. He was slowed down on the road- but because I wasn't as physically fit as he was, it worked out well. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Nevado-

You have been of more assistance to me in the short paragraph you wrote than all the other information I've found to date...THANK YOU!!! I've read all about the route, but until your post, had really little idea of the actual physicality of the trail. That helps!

One question, I'm planning on bringing a hardtail bike since I've read that the dual suspension slows you a bit on the road segments. What type of mt. bike was yours? As you met others, what seemed to be the consensus on the best type? Also, how long/what did you do to train?

I'm glad my info could help you. My bike was a TREK hybred and I thought it was great. My wheels were thin but tough enough to handle anything we encountered (except the boulders). The hairy ascentions were mostly on the road so I was glad I didn't have large wheels. My husband had a hardtail (which I think is fine) but his bike was a hunk of junk! Before we even got on the road his seat broke. A few days later his pedal broke off and his wheel was tweeked. We had to hitch a ride to the nearest town for some shop repairs. Luckily it didn't slow us down much but walking the bikes in the hot sun was not my idea of fun.
As for my "training" it was a big joke! I had gone to the states for the summer to work and found time to go to the gym three times to ride the stationary bike. That was it. Pretty pathetic if you ask me. And, to top it off, we headed north the day I returned to Madrid so I had jetlag to boot. My husband, on the other hand, took his road bike out in the suburbs of Madrid and rode 30 Km a day. But, despite the obvious advantage he had over me, I held my own. I'm sure I suffered more than he did, but it got better as the days passed. We didn't go in plan 80+ Km a day. There were people we met who were doing 80-120 Km daily. I wanted to take more time to visit the larger cities instead of just pass through them. We had a rest every 4-5 days. At first I thought I was going to die ascending to Ponferrada (Km 202) and then, to my disbelief, it got WORSE! The only thing I wrote to describe Kilometers 180-152 was MAL MAL MAL. In this section you have to be careful not to follow the walker's path in certain parts. I remeber the sun had set and we were on a dirt path literally no wider than 18 inches, with a huge drop into a green Galician valley, and no sign of life. I thought we had taken a wrong turn and were on some shepherd's path in the middle of nowhere. Then, finally we saw a small village with a population of 12 named O Cebreiro. Needless to say, that is my favorite village of the whole trip, for more reasons than one.
Anyway, I guess I've gotten off topic. Hope that answers your question. Let me know if you have more.

Nevado- Thank you so much for your descriptions! Your detail is helping me in more ways than one, and that of your "training" is a real helper too...

Do you have your "journal" posted anywhere where I can read your account of the trip?

Unfortunately, I don't. I basically kept notes and records in the book, alongside the map. I'm more into photo journals as photography is a hobby of mine. If you could see the photo of me when we reached the cruz de hierro, you'd laugh. It certainly speaks for itself. I remember having a heck of a time making my way up the mountain. Half way up I saw a tiny iron cross on the side of the road and thought perhaps that was it. I took a photo just in case but later found out it wasn't even close. You'll know when you get there (and so will your body)!!

I've read about it. Did you cheat and look for a rock on-site or did you leave one that you brought with you from your "native land"?

Again, I seriously can't tell you how relieved I am to read your brief account. I'm a thirty-something, and want to do this before my body says no! Something tells me when I get to the top at O Cebreiro I'll be "feeling it"

I am so envious. This makes me really want to try the trail. It is such a beautiful part of the country, and touring by bike is a great way to see things. I wasn't sure I would be able to do it.

I commute to work on my bike (only 12 miles -used to do 25 hilly miles in KC), but if you survived with minimal training, it PROBABLY won't kill me. You aren't a marathon runner or something, are you, Nevado?

How long did it take, stops and all?

[This message has been edited by Nicole (edited 11-10-2000).]

Oh, also. What kind of camera did you use, and how did you protect it from the jolts of the rode. I have an old pentax that I can't do without, takes great pictures, but I am scared to death to "hurt" it. It has enormous sentimental value.