For Eddie: I love Cantabria and Asturias [I call it Fabadalandia ] as much as anyone else, but they weren't on the route...look closely...I knew I had to qualify my choices as "on this trip".

For Espe3: Depending on who you ask, the Camino Francés starts in two different places (we're leaving out the stretch that comes throught the Somport Pass via Jaca...): Either in France at St. Jean Pied-de-Port (Donibane Garazi) or in Spain at Valcarlos (Luzaide). I feel that since Valcarlos is the first Spanish town inside the border, that the road truly begins there. Remember that the road has many twists, and the actual walking trail takes you over the top of the mountains, almost entirely missing the town of Valcarlos. Too bad, since it's really a neat little place. The main road goes through Valcarlos, though, and it IS a stop on the camino. That was my first stamp in the ol' pilgrim's passport.

Panniers are saddlebags for your bicycle that attach to the rack over the back tire of your bicycle. Some good places to start for looking for these are at www.rei.com and www.jandd.com. Nicole loaned me her bags (Jandd) and my riding pal had REI panniers, and both performed well.

The road from the border, via Valcarlos-Pamplona-Logroño-Burgos-León-Astorga-Ponferrada-Sarria-Samos-Santiago is about 500 miles (we got a little "lost" a few times and ended up with 521 total miles). This is roughly 800 km. This route is considered the "French Road" and there are probably a dozen or more other roads...this one just seems to be the principal route through Spain.

I hope this helps! And Eddie, the next time I'm over at your house, I'll expect a hot bowl of fabada with extra tocino!!!

Thank you Calibasco! But approx how many days did it take you?! And I'm considering going by foot, did you meet anyone along the way who was trekking it? How long did it take them? I think I'm going to start researching everything I can now so that I've got good information for when I embark!

Espe3: We met all sorts of walkers (they are the majority). Try this website for a good starter's itinerary: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/

I believe they have something like 30 stages. Plan for at least that many (you average about 3-4 mph on foot, regardless of weather and terrain), so divide 500 miles by thirty days and you get about 15 miles...divide by three and you're walking five hours a day (more or less)...since you leave the albergues at 8:00 or earlier, you're into your next destination by 1:00 or 2:00 (when most albergues open again), plus you've had some stops along the way...

Many pilgrims will start in Roncesvalles (phony start point :p ), which would take a day or two off your total if you so desire...but you wouldn't see Valcarlos, nor would you climb the Ibañeta pass! It took us eleven days to complete our trip. We rode about six hours per day (averaging about 9 mph).

Ultreya! and Buen camino!!!

Thank you Calibasco! I think I'm going to have to get over my biking fear and 'pedal' my way there (ejjejje I made a funny!). I'll def. check out that website!

Hola Calisbasco, enhorabuena!!!!!!!!
I loved following this thread and experiencing the Camino again. It's funny how O'Cebreiro is such a highlight for so many pilgrims on the trail I have a few photos of those glorious mountains just after a sunset, which i will never forget. I often laugh when I remember my feelings once I had arrived after a long trek it was a strange day so many mixed feelings, a tremendous 'bajo' came accross me mixed with wonder and awe of the beauty of the luscious valley before O'Cebreiro, the little village and peaceful stream, the sheep, the humidity etc,etc,
but once i had reached the mountain edge and set eyes on the view I had the strangest feeling that if I died there and then it would be at my most happiest and that i had seen all I wanted to see.
Luckily, I found my friends and shared a few tears they had felt the same! (a relief) thought I was loosing it there. The day ended with some young Spanish ones strumming a guitar singing and dancing with the mystic, misty mountains as there stage for a world class performance, (an ability I envy of the Spanish to break out into song whenever, wherever).
It's at this point I have to snap myself out, I do this by remembering the funny things like when passing between the bulls on a narrow path i remember looking into the eyes of a bull thinking 'alright mate'! and just when I thought i was safe the bastard slapped me in the face with his tail which was covered in bull s***! ahghh jejeje. Or the time I was on the phone to my loved ones and a dog (same colour as my bronzed thunder thigh legs) decided he was in love with my calf and proceeded to show his affections with a grasp of which I could not shake myself free of, locals were having a giggle but a nice lady helped me by gently slapping the beast of who was salivating at this point. jeje
Or that time a friend and me arrived at the wine fountain and.... ooops here I go again!

The path is a mysterious one, plotted i believe, according to the Milky way and a bright star which leads the way to Compostela and it is for this reason many believe the 'Camino' to be charged with an energy like no other. And it is at this point where the energy of the Camino becomes the personal and private 'Camino'while on route and for the rest of my life.bla bla bla One night I had the misfortune of not arriving at a refuge in time and had to sleep in the countryside, but this turned out to be my fortune, .. the moon the stars oh and some left over red wine.
'A pie', there is something in the pain, suffering, simplicity and humility that when shared, comes a most wonderful love and compassion. This is the 'Camino'.
Thanks everyone
Menos agua y mas vino - asi es 'el Camino'!

It sure is great to read all these posts about the Camino. Thanks, Calibasco and others. My husband and I are planning a choir tour of the Camino for summer 2003. His community choir will sing at various churches along the way, and my dancers will also perform. No, we won't be biking or walking, though we do plan to do that some day. So, if there are any San Diego members who like to sing, or who want to tag along, email me and I'll give you more info. At any rate, if anyone is trekking or biking the Camino late June/ early July 2003, maybe you'll catch one of our performances. No, MM, this isn't a business venture. Just a couple of artists finding yet another way to get to Spain!

wow, this post just brought me full member status!

For those of you interested in the Camino to Santiago, here is a wonderful article to read, dated Saturday, January 4th:

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/G...amp;slug=TRCOVE

enjoy, and happy travels!

Great article! I think when I have a little time for reflection I'll be able to write something more than a travelogue...as my experience was filled with similar experiences.

My pilgrim partner has said that he would like to finish the Camino in July of '04, as he left the Camino in Ponferrada last year...leaving my other friend and I to a pilgrim's duet. I think I'll join him!