I realize that this board focuses on Madrid and it's environs but I have a little note to share and some questions.

In January, 1999, my wife (SWMBO) and I attended a public dressage display at the Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre (Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art) in Jerez de la Frontera.

The show was awe-inspiring. However, the schools staff had instructed the spectators that picture taking was forbidden. I actually saw one of the usher persons admonish a flash-photo taker. I don't know if their policy springs from not wanting to startle the horses and riders or to spur sales of souvenirs (I tend to lean toward the former, though the latter is possible). Not wanting to cause any problems, halfway through the show I went to the souvenir area to purchase a video (also, polo shirts, the tourist in me I guess). Of course,
the area was mobbed and I missed the remainder of the show returning to my seat as the show ended. After returning home and having the video format converted, I was very disappointed that the video did not measure up to the show. I must confess that upon reflection I should have attempted to surreptitiously use my camcorder to record the show.

Flash-forward to early March, 2001. SWMBO and I will be in the area of Malaga.
Assuming that everything goes as I hope, we will be back in Jerez de la Frontera and plan to go again to the Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre.

Rick Steves in his 'Spain and Portugal' states that "The school does its Horse Symphony at noon every Thursday…" and "Training sessions, open to the public on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 11:00 to 13:00…" and "If you call ahead you can arrange a private guide… or join an existing tour to see the stables, horses, tack room, and horse health center."

'Eyewitness' blows the whole thing off with 3 sentences.

Questions:

Has anyone out there in the ether been to Jerez and Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre?

Seen the show, attended the training sessions, arranged a private guide or, done the existing tour? When?

We will be staying in the Malaga area. What is the best way to get to Jerez?

Are there 2 or 3 star accommodations near the school? Is the area safe?

I have read 85% of the posting on MM bbs and have found the information interesting and helpful.

gracias

Sol - I'm afraid I can only help you with the rather mundane question of transport. Undoubtedly the best (only?) way to get there (apart from hiring a car) would be to go to Malaga and get the bus. The bus station is a little to the west of the city centre, across the river.

El Boqueron:

Thank you for your response. As no one had responded until you I thought that I had posted in the wrong forum. Are you currently in Spain?

In Spain? I wish! No, I'm back in the office in the UK (just returned from Malaga). I guess no one knows anything about the Jerez horses, is why you haven't had more replies.

El Boqueron:

My explanation of our previous experience in Jerez may have given the erroneous impression that we are more familiar with Jerez than we are. We blew through Jerez
( http://www.venalsur.com/uk/index.html ) with a guided tour in a day on our way to an overnight stay in Sevilla.

But, we were so taken by what we had seen at both the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art
( http://www.realescuela.org/defaulti.htm ) and the bodega Williams & Humbert
( http://www.williams-humbert.com/enwilliams.htm ) that we want to return. If you are at all interested in any of this, check out the above sites (all very well done).

We will be back in Spain for March. Four days Madrid, three days Barcelona, three weeks Costa del Sol.

As you have just returned from Malaga, do you have any recommendations for dining, tapas, and sights in Malaga?

As to Jerez, we’ll just have to ‘play it by ear’ when we’re there.

Hi Sol. I'm in Malaga province right now and when I look out the window I see a beautiful cloudless sky. I bet El Boqueron got his feet wet on his recent visit though, as it has rained and rained recently.

I go to, or through, Jerez fairly often in summer. I've only stayed there once and that was in the 4* Hotel Guadalete, which was just a few minutes walk from the Real Escuela.

The best way to get there is by car. I live towards Estepona, so when I go, I turn off the N340 coast road before Algeciras at Los Barrios and from there it's about an hour and a quarter, through some wonderful scenery.

I can't help you with the horsey bit, I'm afraid. I will occasionally see them running round a track but that's about it!

Jerez is as safe as any Andalucian city or town. I never feel threatened or unsafe, but you should always be careful and watchful, that goes without saying. There seems to be a large gypsy population there, but I would say people are pestered more on the Costa del Sol by the likes of the "ladies bearing lucky heather"! If one of these approaches, keep an eye on your handbag and don't take out your wallet or purse to pay them anything, as they will helpfully get inside it, looking for the small coin for you, whilst skilfully palming any bank notes. I would never play them at cards!

There are some nice tapas bars and places to eat. When I stayed there, though, I found an excellent Argentian restaurant, round the corner from the Escuela, although I can't remember its name. I'm sure it's the only one there anyway so it should be easy to find and even though it felt like eating in a barn, it was full and the food was fantastic and very reasonably priced.

One last thing. Don't forget your sunglasses even if it's a dull day, as the public buses are the gaudiest, brightest coloured pink and blue) I have ever seen! Enjoy your visit!

Hi Anchovy - Wet? in Malaga!? Never! Well, maybe one night, just a bit! It was even sunny in Granada, if a tad cold, but the Sierra Nevada was beautifully, perfectly... nevada!

Sol - are you planning to stay in the city of Malaga itself, or somewhere on the costa del sol, I mean, in one of the resorts? I have plenty of recommendations, but some of them would be like, "if you're in the area", rather than "worth travelling 40 miles for".

It has been a week since your original posting, so I hope you check back on this. I have been to the Escuela for a Thursday performance only and it was about 10 years ago.

Getting to Jerez - This is easy by bus from Sevilla, but I'm not sure about doing this from Malaga. It is about an hour from Sevilla, but I think it is a bit more complicated from the Malaga area - probably involves connections. You probably want to rent a car if you are coming from that direction. I can't say about hotels, as I always stay in Sevilla, so don't spend the night there when I go. But I'm sure there are a number of nice hotels.

The town - Is on a main road and is a nice town to visit. Besides the Escuela, the bodegas are an interesting visit. After all, it is the center of sherry production. As far as crime goes, it is probably no different than any Spanish town.

The horses - When I went, access to anything regarding the horses backstage, stables, etc. seemed very limited. Things may have changed, or perhaps it is better checking that out on non-performance days. If you have your heart set on it, I would suggest arranging something ahead of time.

When are you going? Enjoy!

Hola, Anchovy Front:

Well, I just looked out the window and saw the sun trying to peek out of an overcast sky. The 42 inches of snow on the ground is slooowly melting.

I would have gladly traded places with El Boqueron. You don’t shovel rain in Spain, do you?

I envy you, being in Estepona.
Thank you for the information regarding the 4* Hotel Guadalete . I checked the web and see that they are at AV DUQUE DE ABRANTES 50 - JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA but their nightly rack room rate is approximately $125 USD. A bit more than I was considering.
I must be frank with you that I’m intimidated by the vehicle traffic in Spain. All those moped/scooter things buzzing in and out of traffic with scat regard to what is happening around them. Not to mention the tour buses. The bus drivers wheel around as if they were diving a moped/scooter. All quite disconcerting. I think I’ll consider El Boqueron’s suggestion for taking a bus or, perhaps, some other mode of public transportation. When we were last in Spain we were warned off of using the train in Costa del Sol as they were supposed to be dirty/unsafe. Do you have an opinion as to their condition?
As I recall, the scenery was gorgeous as one traveled toward Jerez. All the cork trees and the far off view of Gibraltar.
You stated “I can't help you with the horsey bit, I'm afraid. I will occasionally see them running round a track but that's about it!” Is horse track betting legal in Spain? Where?
The question regarding safety is obligatory. I’ve read the postings on this board regarding the pickpockets and thieves in Madrid and Barcelona, and the safety incidents in Tangiers and take them seriously. We’ve met the lady with the heather, or perhaps it was her sister or cousin. Though, more often in our case, she was showing us a tablecloth with some silk-screened design. I will take your cautions to heart.
In our limited experience, I must agree with you about not feeling threatened or unsafe. And, if I may add, I found Spaniards (is that the proper term) to be warm and so hard working. We were never shown any discourtesy. They were tolerant of our ignorance. Had we not felt this way we wouldn’t be returning.
You say, “I would never play them (the gypsy ladies) at cards!” your second gambling reference. Are you a gambling aficionado?
I am interested in any “nice bars and places to eat” anywhere on the Costa del Sol. I will bear in mind the “excellent Argentian restaurant”.
Perhaps we will run into each other while we are there.

Hola, El Boqueron:

No, we will not be staying in Malaga, but elsewhere on the Costa del Sol. Do I dare say it? TORREMOLINOS! OK, there, it’s out. I didn’t think I would be able to do it on MadidMan’s board! But, it’s done!

We will be staying at the Sol Elite Aloha Puerto. It’s right on the border between Torremolinos and Benalmadena. The last tourist hotel in Torremolinos as one heads west into Benalmadena. You know, where the sidewalk tiles change from blue to red (or is it vice versa?), no matter.

You stated, “I have plenty of recommendations, but some of them would be like, "if you're in the area", rather than "worth travelling 40 miles for".

I am interested in any thing you have to say/offer as an opinion.

Thank you for your response.

Hola, NancySid:

Thank you for responding.

I have been checking the message board daily for responses to this post. For a while I thought I was ‘whistling into the wind’.

I am very pleased to speak with someone else who has also been to Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. In one of my earlier posts I mentioned “the behind the scenes tour(s)”. We are really interested in seeing this. Though, we also want to see the ‘horse show’ again, as someone else has characterized it.

Oh, we definitely have our hearts set on seeing everything we can regarding the school.

I mentioned in an earlier post my position on driving in Spain. We will of course still get our International Drivers Licenses. Perhaps I can talk myself into a driving trip to Rhonda, a view of the gorge and a night in the parador. More likely a day trip on public trans. We’ll see.

When we were in Sevilla, we went to the ‘Plaza de America’ (I think I really misspelled that) and were very impressed. That’s where my wife ‘learned’ to play the castanets. She really enjoyed herself.

I referenced our tentative itinarery in an earlier post.

Thank you, I know we will enjoy it.

I have the best of intentions to post a review of our trip on this board in partial gratitude for all we have learned.

NanceySid, please use the above link to the ‘school’ and let me know what you think of their site.

[This message has been edited by MadridMan (edited 01-18-2001).]

Hi Sol. Quick note on the weather...it's pouring down with rain again. Our reservoirs are filling! To say the weather is unsettled at the moment is an understatement!

Anyway, to answer a couple of points, I don't know how many nights you will be staying away from your base, because when I stayed at the Guadalete it was with Bancotel, which I highlighted a while ago. If you will be paying for five nights accomodation at various hotels before 31.03.00 it may pay you to think about them. This is the date the current vouchers expire. It cost us 8.000 Pts, or about $45 at today's rate. Try www.bancotel.es for more info, or do a search of the Lodgings forum.

The mopeds and scooters are a pain here, I agree. I am waiting for open season to be declared on them! Driving isn't really so bad, but if you want to use public transport it's fine. You say the line between Fuengirola and Malaga was said to be dirty and unsafe? I think you will find that it is a wonderful service, with spotless, safe coaches running on time to the minute. It's a shame the line ends at Fuengirola, where I work, as I would use it every day to commute. Far better than anything I've seen in England, although I believe that's not difficult right now, eh Boqueron?

I don't gamble much at all, although I can see why you say that! Years since I've been to the casino....there I go again! Oh and the lotteries, of course......! There is a relatively new horse racing circuit at Mijas Costa, just a little way along the coast from where you are staying. They hold meetings every Sunday, I think, in the winter and Saturday nights in the summer (the first meeting ended about three in the morning I believe!)

I've got to go now, but I'll think about the bars and places to eat bit and get back to you. By the way, you say "perhaps we will run into each other while we are there". I thought that was particularly funny, given what you said about the driving earlier!!!