My husband and I are moving to Madrid for a year starting in August and we're looking for a place to live. I've searched through lots of apartment listings and the most affordable but not totally cramped places seem to be in Lavapies. I've read in several of the threads here that Lavapies is not exactly the safest neighborhood (though some of the threads are a few years old now and these things change).

The apartments I've seen are in the northern part of Lavapies, away from the plaza (between the Anton Martin and Tirso de Molina metros). Does anyone have any opinions about the safety and 'liveability' of this area? If Lavapies is just too terrible, are there any other areas that I should look at?

Thanks!

Hello Pepecita!

From my point of view, I think there are better places than Lavapiés. It's one of the oldest quarters of Madrid, and in the last decades it has been "occupied" by Chinese and Muslims.

It used to be a place where young students and bohemian artists lived since it was near the city downtown and it was cheap. Some parts are quiet, but some others might be conflictive. On the other hand, the Chinese comunity is somehow peaceful.

It all depends on your budget and where you're planning to work in Madrid in order to choose a better neighbourhood.

Hi Amleth,

Thanks for the quick response. My husband is going to be doing research at the Archivo Historico Nacional at the Gregorio Maranon Metro stop. From what I've seen, the area around there is expensive, so we're looking for someplace he can take the metro to get there. We're going on a Fulbright and the budget is tight. Any suggestions on other neighborhoods?

The impression that I've gotten of Lavapies from guidebooks and realtor speak (which always puts the happy spin on things) is that Lavapies is 'gentrifying', but sounds like that's not the case.

Is Lavapies an area where there are good streets and bad? A couple of apartments we had been looking at were by the Candela Flamenco Bar that I've seen profiled in some guide books. I took that to be a good sign, but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks again!

I think it all depends on what you are used to and comfortable with. I would recommend walking around the neighborhood and seeing different places before making a decision.

I live right on the boundary between Lavapies and La Latina and walk through both neighborhoods at all hours and I have never felt threatened. But I've lived in lots of big, scary US cities and neighborhoods--and take some precautions--so it would take a whole lot to phase me at this point. I think that the worst thing that could happen would be that you could get mugged or pickpocketed.

Personally, I would prefer living on top of the hill closer to Anton Martin, only because it's a bit of a hassle to walk up the hill to get everywhere (I'm inherently lazy) and there is a nice market and the Filmoteca. But Lavapies definitely has its charms, lots of good places to eat and hang out and is tourist-free. There are still lots of students and old-timers who live there. Judging by all of the containers in the streets from the "reformas" I would say that it is gentrifying building by building--not sure whether that will end up being good or bad. From what I can tell, I don't think one street is safer or more dangerous than another... I think it's more important (in any area, really) to look for a building that has a secure, well-lit entrance and front door that is always locked.

I don't really like the area on Calle de Atocha between Tirso de Molina and Anton Martin, mainly because it's not very residential. I think the back and side streets have more charm.

I love our neighborhood--La Latina. It's just a bit west of Lavapies and has a lot of great places to hang out and tons of charm. You might also look in the Puerta de Toledo area, which is at the south end of La Latina. When looking for apartments, these neighborhood are called a lot of things: Austrias, Embajadores, Calle de Toledo, La Latina, Puerta de Toledo, Reina Sofia, Lavapies...

Lavapies isn't that scary, really. That said, I know a few people who've been mugged walking home at around 3am in the morning, towards the Plaza. The area between Anton Martin and Tirso de Molina is fine. You'll find the area fascinating, I promise. As for other barrios, you could try the Malasaña area (around Metros Tribunal or San Bernardo) but avoid the area immediately north of Telefonica - it's rater seedy. If you find any apartments online (try idealista.com) post the details here and we can all pass judgement!

Another area you might consider is the Barrio Lucero at/near the LUCERO metro stop or someplace along the Paseo de Extremadura.

This area is "just across the river" and against the LARGE Casa de Campo Park, along the metro line (grey line, I think) and several bus lines, but still very accessible to downtown - although it's not IN downtown. I frequently WALK from there to Plaza Mayor or I'll take the bus there. Barrio Lucero is mainly a working-class zone, some parts better than others, and a lot less expensive than most parts of downtown Madrid. It may - or may not - be cheaper than even Lavapies but... maybe prices/property values have dropped even further in Lavapies, regardless to its proximity to, say, Puerta del Sol.

Barrio Lucero actually falls into the LATINA district - which covers BOTH sides of the river - quite a wide stretch of land. It has a number of markets, banks, stores, shops, bakeries. This is the area in which I stay when I visit Madrid and like it just fine but there's no night life whatsover, and only a few of the older, smaller neighborhood bars are open past 11pm and probably only about 3 or 4 restaurants. I'm DEFINITELY the ONLY tourist staying there, mainly Spaniards live there, but there are more and more foreigners every year too.

Saludos, MadridMan

One small comment...

Latina is a very big district on the "other side" of the Manzanares and the M-30 and roughly comprises the neighborhoods of Puerta del Angel, Campamento, Lucero, Los Carmenes, Aluche.

La Latina is a small neighborhood in the center of Madrid, just south of Plaza Mayor. The boundaries are roughly Calle de Toledo to the east, Bailen to the west, Calle de Segovia to the north, and Ronda de Toledo/Segovia to the south. The metro stops are La Latina and Puerta de Toledo.

EXCELLENT clarification, mariposita. A LOT of people confuse these two names/areas.

Saludos, MadridMan

Pepecita,
I saw from your profile that you are currently in Boston; what part of Boston are you and your husband living in? Reason I'm asking is that I lived there for 8 years and might be able to draw some inference in life style/flat size etc for you based on what you are accustomed to

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. It's very helpful!

Puna -- I live in Cambridge to be more precise; right in Central Square, so I am used to diverse communities. That's another reason Lavapies sounded interesting.

Gotcha! Take time to check out La Latina as well - Mariposita's input's invaluable here -
My guess is that you and your SO would be comfortable in either area -

Do suggest you stay on the city proper side of the river thou - you want to experience as much - as easily - as possible during your year. Also, you said he was doing research - so I'm guessing you would rather be as close to city center as possible.

Envy you both ....

My understanding is that gradually investors are buying up properties in Lavapies as it's so close to the city centre - and a lot of local people understandably are opposed to the property speculation. I believe it does have a bit of a reputation for street crime, but plenty of guiri live here and avoid trouble by taking the right precautions...
This is also second-hand but I understand there are a lot of happening bars and clubs there - you may live on a street with a lot of noise at night (ALL night) so take soundings before you commit to a particular accommodation...

Lavapies is all that the previous posters have said and I feel can be charming! We rent out our piso there and our tenant has been in it for more than 4 years and he has never experienced any problems on the street. Also, the barrio of Embajadores (where my suegros live) just south of Lavapies is just a tad further from the center, like 1/4 mile, and is totally residential with no tourists, it has 2 metro stops and may be on the more inexpensive side than closer to the city center, the pisos may be bigger too. Inexpensive in Madrid is an oxymoron these days!

Good luck!!

Hello!

I lived for a year in Lavapies (June 2003 unitl July 2004) and although there were no MAJOR incidents, almost everyone I know from the area has been pickpocketed, including myself, at one time or another. Not that that inherently makes it a bad neighborhood (you can get pickpocket anywhere), but a few people involved in 11-M were living in Lavapies at the time. The neigborhood is quite dirty, but it is very near Sol, hence it being well connected as far as transportation. Near metro Tirso de Molina and Lavapies, there are usually many questionable looking people just hanging out.......for what, who knows! And, in Tirso de Molina there are usually a lot of homeless people at night. Not to say that the area doesn´t have its charms, but if you don´t want to bother with these types of issues, it might be better to pick another neighborhood. And, as far as prices go, check around. You can get lucky in normally more expensive neighborhoods. One year in Lavapies was good, but at the end of it I was ready to move to another neighborhood!

its a good neighborhood for cheap shopping, i don't know about saftey though, my wife bought 25 scarfs for like 5 euro or some insane cheap price. strolled around there w/ a couple of madrid natives, who were reluctent to show off a little less glamourous part of the city, but it just another chance to people watch. Its pretty ethnic, w/ a large muslim/asian population-not that that makes it any less safe/more safe. Went to a couple of great bars while the woman were shopping, and while there were some pretty gruff youngsters there, the beer was cold and cheap!

A few posts back you mentioned your hubby just needs metro transport. That opens things up quite a bit. If you feel the need to be in the center, then go with your choice. If all you need is a metro stop nearby then you've got plenty of options. It's not the MBTA, but that's a good thing.