My husband and I are moving to Madrid for a year starting in August and we're looking for a place to live. I've searched through lots of apartment listings and the most affordable but not totally cramped places seem to be in Lavapies. I've read in several of the threads here that Lavapies is not exactly the safest neighborhood (though some of the threads are a few years old now and these things change).

The apartments I've seen are in the northern part of Lavapies, away from the plaza (between the Anton Martin and Tirso de Molina metros). Does anyone have any opinions about the safety and 'liveability' of this area? If Lavapies is just too terrible, are there any other areas that I should look at?

Thanks!

Hello Pepecita!

From my point of view, I think there are better places than Lavapiés. It's one of the oldest quarters of Madrid, and in the last decades it has been "occupied" by Chinese and Muslims.

It used to be a place where young students and bohemian artists lived since it was near the city downtown and it was cheap. Some parts are quiet, but some others might be conflictive. On the other hand, the Chinese comunity is somehow peaceful.

It all depends on your budget and where you're planning to work in Madrid in order to choose a better neighbourhood.

Hi Amleth,

Thanks for the quick response. My husband is going to be doing research at the Archivo Historico Nacional at the Gregorio Maranon Metro stop. From what I've seen, the area around there is expensive, so we're looking for someplace he can take the metro to get there. We're going on a Fulbright and the budget is tight. Any suggestions on other neighborhoods?

The impression that I've gotten of Lavapies from guidebooks and realtor speak (which always puts the happy spin on things) is that Lavapies is 'gentrifying', but sounds like that's not the case.

Is Lavapies an area where there are good streets and bad? A couple of apartments we had been looking at were by the Candela Flamenco Bar that I've seen profiled in some guide books. I took that to be a good sign, but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks again!

I think it all depends on what you are used to and comfortable with. I would recommend walking around the neighborhood and seeing different places before making a decision.

I live right on the boundary between Lavapies and La Latina and walk through both neighborhoods at all hours and I have never felt threatened. But I've lived in lots of big, scary US cities and neighborhoods--and take some precautions--so it would take a whole lot to phase me at this point. I think that the worst thing that could happen would be that you could get mugged or pickpocketed.

Personally, I would prefer living on top of the hill closer to Anton Martin, only because it's a bit of a hassle to walk up the hill to get everywhere (I'm inherently lazy) and there is a nice market and the Filmoteca. But Lavapies definitely has its charms, lots of good places to eat and hang out and is tourist-free. There are still lots of students and old-timers who live there. Judging by all of the containers in the streets from the "reformas" I would say that it is gentrifying building by building--not sure whether that will end up being good or bad. From what I can tell, I don't think one street is safer or more dangerous than another... I think it's more important (in any area, really) to look for a building that has a secure, well-lit entrance and front door that is always locked.

I don't really like the area on Calle de Atocha between Tirso de Molina and Anton Martin, mainly because it's not very residential. I think the back and side streets have more charm.

I love our neighborhood--La Latina. It's just a bit west of Lavapies and has a lot of great places to hang out and tons of charm. You might also look in the Puerta de Toledo area, which is at the south end of La Latina. When looking for apartments, these neighborhood are called a lot of things: Austrias, Embajadores, Calle de Toledo, La Latina, Puerta de Toledo, Reina Sofia, Lavapies...

Lavapies isn't that scary, really. That said, I know a few people who've been mugged walking home at around 3am in the morning, towards the Plaza. The area between Anton Martin and Tirso de Molina is fine. You'll find the area fascinating, I promise. As for other barrios, you could try the Malasaña area (around Metros Tribunal or San Bernardo) but avoid the area immediately north of Telefonica - it's rater seedy. If you find any apartments online (try idealista.com) post the details here and we can all pass judgement!

Another area you might consider is the Barrio Lucero at/near the LUCERO metro stop or someplace along the Paseo de Extremadura.

This area is "just across the river" and against the LARGE Casa de Campo Park, along the metro line (grey line, I think) and several bus lines, but still very accessible to downtown - although it's not IN downtown. I frequently WALK from there to Plaza Mayor or I'll take the bus there. Barrio Lucero is mainly a working-class zone, some parts better than others, and a lot less expensive than most parts of downtown Madrid. It may - or may not - be cheaper than even Lavapies but... maybe prices/property values have dropped even further in Lavapies, regardless to its proximity to, say, Puerta del Sol.

Barrio Lucero actually falls into the LATINA district - which covers BOTH sides of the river - quite a wide stretch of land. It has a number of markets, banks, stores, shops, bakeries. This is the area in which I stay when I visit Madrid and like it just fine but there's no night life whatsover, and only a few of the older, smaller neighborhood bars are open past 11pm and probably only about 3 or 4 restaurants. I'm DEFINITELY the ONLY tourist staying there, mainly Spaniards live there, but there are more and more foreigners every year too.

Saludos, MadridMan

One small comment...

Latina is a very big district on the "other side" of the Manzanares and the M-30 and roughly comprises the neighborhoods of Puerta del Angel, Campamento, Lucero, Los Carmenes, Aluche.

La Latina is a small neighborhood in the center of Madrid, just south of Plaza Mayor. The boundaries are roughly Calle de Toledo to the east, Bailen to the west, Calle de Segovia to the north, and Ronda de Toledo/Segovia to the south. The metro stops are La Latina and Puerta de Toledo.

EXCELLENT clarification, mariposita. A LOT of people confuse these two names/areas.

Saludos, MadridMan

Pepecita,
I saw from your profile that you are currently in Boston; what part of Boston are you and your husband living in? Reason I'm asking is that I lived there for 8 years and might be able to draw some inference in life style/flat size etc for you based on what you are accustomed to

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. It's very helpful!

Puna -- I live in Cambridge to be more precise; right in Central Square, so I am used to diverse communities. That's another reason Lavapies sounded interesting.