When I was last in Madrid in 1965, there were night watchmen called "serenos" patrolling. Do these gentlemen still patrol their streets at night? Are they unique to Madrid, or do they exist in other cities such as Sevilla? Were they in existance in the 19th century?

Sadly no, they no longer exist. There used to be serenos in other cities back in the 60's, but I think with the end of the Franco era, the system vanished.

The serenos were in all cities- but as la maestra pointed out- do not exist since the end of Franco.

Fer- spelling mishap- it happens. I've made the correction but thanks for pointing it out.

By the way, that would be you didn't MEET serenos, not met.

Their name is "sereno", not "sireno", which sounds as the masculine of sirene ("sirena") hehehe.

I didn't met serenos, they were gone when I was born, but there are still charming stories about them.

Fernando

I think in Madrid the Serenos used to have a 1-city-block area. At 22:30 the Portales (the large cast iron gates) of the apartment buildings were locked - if you came home after that you would have to call the Sereno to unlock the Portal.

'Nice girls' were normally expected to be home before the Portales were locked.

I don't know where the Serenos wages came from. They were not Police but I think they may have been paid by the Ayuntamiento.

Fernando, thanks for the spelling reminder! Of course I know that the word is "sereno!" Every now and then, even the most perfect of teachers makes a typo! Sorry about that...I have made the necessary correction!

Eddie, I remember having to tip the serenos to open and close those gates. And if I didn't tip generously from time to time, the old boy would take his sweet time making it to my door on cold, rainy nights!
I loved hearing the tap of his nightstick on the pavement and the "Alli voy!" as he swept like batman through the night...cape waving behind him!

hey everybody

one thing funny this about the serenos.
in the franco-era there was virtually no crime except for eta crimes(which was well taken care of)so why did they have serenos?i know it has nothing to do with courting, so what is it?would be glad to know the answer.as fernando said i also was born after this event.im only 22.(only?)

Serenos y nocheros...

Yes, I remember them and I am sorry to point out to those who think that during Franco's days there was no crime, this is a fantasy. Cars were stolen and broken into, not because of drugs but simply because of poverty. Cops were busy and people complained and told you to be careful (they exagerated a bit I am afraid, if you think of other countries)

I was in a meeting a few years back where F. Gonzalez (former PM)spoke about the trememdous effort he made to bring the income per capita of Spaniards to a developed conutry level.

His goal was to reach US15 000 per year and he almost did. Back in Franco's days the i/p/c was around 7 K, I believe, and the nocheros and serenos were simply old men that had to walk all night in order to eat. Nothing romantic about it. Incidentally the main doors were locked up not because it was an exercise for the owners; it was fear of getting ripped off.

Saludos,
Juan

JA-
I think you're oversimpifying things.

The serenos were there as a security measure- but yes, even in Franco's era there was crime. But having serenos did make the streets safer. And no, the doors weren't locked because the owners were afraid of getting robbed- maybe some did- but also keep in mind that many buildings aren't owned necesarily (then or now) by a company or one person- but are co-ops the people that live in the apts own them- and decide on the rules and so forth of their building and how its cared for and watched. There also used to be a curfew- a sort of way to keep an eye on people- you could be out later, but you weren't getting in without someone knowing your business! :o

Nobody is saying that there wasn't crime during Franco's era. That's a totally different topic.

I recall a conversation from back in the late 1950s between a sereno and a very formal apartment dweller who had two adult daughters. Upon learning about the daughters, the sereno confessed that he had never known of their existence. "Of course not" replied the socially strict and cautious Dad, "they are always at home before your time to appear."

Signs of the times.

I remember the Franco era quite well, having begun visiting spain regularly in 1956. Yes, there was crime then but it was of a different nature. Most crimes, as has been suggested, were crimes of stealth. Street crime was rare.

Attacks on tourists, which Franco was eager to attract, were non-existent. At least I never heard of any back then. One reason was that the guardias were judge, jury and sometimes executioner. A mugger could get himself shot. I recall a case where a thief on a Vespa snatched a purse. The quardia brought him down with his rifle. That sort of thing does tend to discourage repetition.