I expect to spend the last week of June and the first week of July in Navarra. I lived in Pamplona thirty years ago and plan only to pass through the city (and pass up the festival). My interest is in the countryside and the villages. I will be backpacking, expect to travel by bus, hike and perhaps hitchhike (if that's advisable). My Spanish is rusty but it's coming back.

Any recommendations for valleys to visit (I'm thinking Salazar and Roncal, wondering about Bidasoa and Baztan), towns time has passed by, hikes not to be missed? Should I spend a day in Estella, where I've never been? Can I get the appropriate trail maps in Pamplona?

Thanks for your help,
Joe Markley
Florence, Massachusetts

Considering you are going to stay for two weeks, I would do the four valleys you mention. On the way to Bera de Bidasoa, don't forget to stop at the Señorio de Bértiz , an amazing garden and natural park

I visited Estella/Lizarra ages ago, and I liked it a lot. Neat little city with a nice market square, some Romanic churches not to be missed, and a pleasant atmosphere.

If you want to stay in an impressive place for a night, try the Leyre Monastry. A gorgeous Romanic cathedral next door, a wonderful view on the artificial embalse down in the valley, it's a sight.

If you are into architecture, the small octogonal chapel of Eunate about 25 km outside Pamplona in the direction to Talavera is a gem.