Chapter One – Researching

My first trip to Spain was in February 2005 for two weeks. Months before this trip, I decided not to visit Barcelona. I really wanted to see Barcelona and spend at least a week there. But I realized if I did visit Barcelona I would not have time for Sevilla and Granada. These two places were a must see for me along with Madrid. Since it would be my first time in Madrid I wanted to spend at least one week there. So I made the painful choice knowing I cannot see everything with only two weeks of vacation time. I would save Barcelona for another trip to Spain.

In the summer of 2005, I decided to visit again Spain in October and this time I was going to visit Barcelona. I never would have dreamed I would be visiting Spain so soon. My first trip I visited Sevilla, Granada, Cordoba, Toledo, Salamanca and Madrid. For this second trip my plans were to visit Madrid again for a few days, see Segovia as daytrip from Madrid, three days in Santiago de Compostela and entire week in Barcelona.

When I was researching Barcelona, besides studying the guidebooks and travel forums, for information on what to see, what to do and where to eat, I also examined other photographers’ photographs. This gave me ideas, what I wanted to see, what areas in Barcelona are worth while to photograph and how a location or building appears in the day and at night. From studying these photographs of Barcelona I had set two goals for myself when I visited. One was to photograph its famous architecture, like Parc Guell, Casa Mila and the must see architecture gem, La Sagrada Família. The other goal was to shoot the street performers found along the “notorious” Las Ramblas.

The Las Ramblas is a large avenue in Barcelona that is about ¾ mile long. But instead of traffic running down the middle and sidewalks are on the sides of the avenue, like you would see in a typical big city, it is just the opposite. There is a very wide sidewalk running down the entire length of the Ramblas where people walk and the traffic runs long a single lane street on the left and right side. One could consider the Las Ramblas to be the heart of the city since you will see plenty of people partying there. As you walk down the Ramblas you will see stalls selling flowers, birds or souvenirs for the tourists and there are plenty of tourists on the Las Ramblas. You will find outdoor cafes where people sitting, usually tourists, drinking large pitchers of sangria or beer and enjoying themselves. But what makes the Las Ramblas distinctive and lively in my opinion, is the various street performers you will find there everyday.

Now the reason why I said the “notorious” Las Ramblas is because as I was doing my Barcelona research, I would come across stories or warnings posted on the various internet forums of incidents of petty street crimes that took place in Barcelona. Generally these stories were from victims who visited the Ramblas and had their wallets, purses or cameras stolen. I found a website and its only purpose is for people to post messages about street crime in Barcelona (http://jones.tc/barna/scams.html). I have a travel DVD on Spain from Globe Trekker. There is a segment of the show filmed in Barcelona on the Ramblas. As they are filming they capture in the background a guy getting his bag stolen in broad daylight on the Ramblas.

There is another thing and it caused me the most concerned with my up coming trip to Barcelona. When I recalled the research I did on other trips to major European cities, I never read so many warnings about petty street crime like I did for Barcelona. Not for Paris. Not for Rome. Not for Madrid. Even the other popular tourist destination I visited in Europe over the years. It seemed that street crime was a problem in Barcelona mostly along the Las Ramblas and nowhere else in Europe it was as bad as Barcelona.

Chapter 2 – Finally Barcelona – Safety First

I was about to start my second week in Spain; it was a Saturday when I arrived in Barcelona by plane. I had just flown out of Santiago de Compostela a few hours earlier, leaving behind the cold overcast Galicia skies. I remember looking out of the plane’s window as we were taking off the airport’s runway and it started rain. I had a smile on my face of what took place in Compostela, but that is another story. When I landed in Barcelona, the weather was beautiful. I felt like a small child, the excitement was building in me as I was about to walk thought the entrance gate at Disneyworld. Only my entrance was the exit were I picked up my luggage at Barcelona’s airport and I found a taxi to take me to my place I was staying at in Barcelona.

When I arrived at my hostel, Residencia Australia I was warmly greeted by the owner Tomas (Thomas). It is always a good sign when you first enter any place where you are going to stay for a long time, to be warmly greeted. Tomas gave me advice about being safe in Barcelona, what to see and do. He made me feel right at home at his hostel. I dropped my luggage and camera gear in my room and within five minutes I was ready for Barcelona. The residencia is located two blocks was from Plaça de Catalunya, which happens to be gateway at the top of the Las Ramblas. So the first place I visited in Barcelona was going to be the “notorious” Las Ramblas.

Because of my concerns from all those warnings of Barcelona’s street crime I read, I decided not take my photo gear with me. This is usual for me as I always will take a camera with me just incase. Just incase I come across something interesting to photograph. I do remember thinking in my room as I was dropping off my luggage and camera gear, I will find out how risky the Ramblas and Barcelona was before I carry my photo gear with me.

I did not realized how much those Barcelona warnings had influence me until, I arrived back home in New York City. I recalled an incident with another photographer that happened a month early before my October trip. It should have made me recognize something out of the ordinary is going on within me.

I found out a photographer friend of mine had visited Barcelona in 2005, so I wanted to get his opinion of Barcelona from a photographer’s point of view. The first question I ask him, what were the chances my photo gear would be stolen while I was in Barcelona.

Looking back that was dumb question to ask. But my photographer friend did say I should have no concerns about my photo gear or personal safety while I was there. He found Barcelona to be a safe city. But did I listen to him? No. If I did I would have took my photo gear with me when I headed off to the Ramblas. I really do think my state of mind was not of fear about Barcelona but I that of excessive concern.

The thoughts that were running through my head at that time was my concerns of the consequences that might happen if I started to take photographs using my 35mm DSLR camera. I might attract unwanted attention and could be a prime target of some muggers. Losing my gear could make my dream trip in Barcelona a disaster.

I had already spent three weeks in Spain and never once had concerns about losing my camera gear like the concerns for Barcelona. I shot photographs in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor, even photos at night of my friends using a powerful flash and was never concerned about the attention I was attracting. Madrid’s Plaza Mayor is well known spot for pickpockets. So well know that on my second visit I witness a couple who were victims of some gypsy’s kids. When it came to Barcelona I think I was detached from what the real situation was there also how well prepared I was when I traveled. I was already a season traveler, always carry my photo gear with me and had avoided trouble on my past trips. But none of that registered with me for Barcelona.

Chapter 3 – The Walk

When I arrival at the Ramblas it was packed with tourists and the atmosphere was like a big party. Within 30 seconds I saw my first Barcelona street performer. “Wow! That would make a good photograph.” I thought to myself and then wished I had my camera. Right next to the first one was another performer and then another. All three of them were fascinating to watch as they performed their acts for the crowds that surrounded them.

My impression when I first saw them is that many of Barcelona’s street performers are serious about their appearance and the act they perform for the crowd. I have a sense that they were not amateurs when it came to street performers. Also they seem to be competing with the each other for tips from the tourists. Since the Ramblas is long avenue anyone walking down will see plenty of street performers. I think on average ten street performers can be seen daily. But I think the most important ingredient with a Barcelona street performer was their appearance. It was their costumes they use as a hook to attract people to watch them, photography them and tip them.

As I walked further down the crowded Ramblas, when I saw a small crowd, I could be sure they gather around watching a street performer. I soon realized there are two types of acts these street performers did. There are those who that are frozen in a pose, like a statue. When you dropped some money in their tip bucket they would perform a zany act or did nothing. They still remained a frozen like a statue. There are others that would interact with people that just happen to be walking by them or tipped them. There even some when you tipped them; they will give you a small trinket as a gift, with a smile and a thank you,

I found it fun to stand back as an observer, watching the street performers interact with the crowds. I was also getting ideas how I wanted to photography them and as I was studying them. I started to regret not having my camera with me. Right before my eyes, I was watching missed opportunities to photograph. For me it was a loss moment in time that was unique and was gone forever.

As I walked further down the Ramblas, I made up my mind to walk all the way down to the end which ends at the harbor and then walk all the way back I just walked. Since I do not carry a wallet when I travel and my credit cards are in my money belt, I felt secure. But I was on the lookout for people that might want to pick pocket me. Then I saw a street performer that I knew I made the wrong decision to leave my camera gear in my room.

Chapter 4 – Storm Clouds and the Good Search

This street performer was wearing only a loin cloth coving his private parts, bare footed, painted his entire body in the color red, was bald or he shaved his hair. The best part, he was wearing horns. My impression was that he looked like the Devil or someone that is employed in Hell. I definitely wanted a photograph of him.

I decided right there and then, to continue walking down the end of the Ramblas to the end as I originally planned to. Then I would walk back to my hostel, pick up my photo gear, come back and photograph this Devil.

I am glad I decided to continue walking down the Ramblas instead of making a beeline for my room to pick up my photo gear. As the closer I came to the end of the Ramblas, the crowds thin out and there was no street performers to been seen. It gave me a chance to think. I realized the Ramblas was not as dangerous as I thought it would be because I just walk entire length of it. I knew if I used my common sense, I would be okay and then concerns of my camera gear being stolen were gone.

At the end of the Ramblas I walked around the Columbus monument turned and walked like a New Yorker that has a place to go and wants to be early. Walking back, the Devil was taking a break, standing next to another street performer smoking a cigarette. That walk took about 25 minutes to get back to my room. I picked up my camera bag and made a bee line for the Devil.

When I finally arrived at the spot were the Devil was smoking, he was gone. I was disappointed because I just saw the chance to shoot a good and interesting photo lost to me.

Now this is were I have my ying-yang moment, the moment where my storm cloud has a silver lining, were a missed opportunity turns into a blessing in disguised. But! It always seems that I do not know it until after events have passed they become my lifetime memories and later think about them only to realize how lucky I was.

A second after I was disappointed to have missed the chance to photograph this Devil, I decided to visit the Ramblas the next day and try again to shoot the Devil with my camera. Then I smiled, because I was going to start my vacation in Barcelona. Right there on the Ramblas and it was no longer the “notorious” Las Ramblas to me. I pulled out my camera and started photographing some of the other street performers. While I did have concerns about my photo gear, my concerns was diminished. My common sense was my protection, the same common sense I used for past trips.

This type of street photography is extremely fun for me, because nothing is planned. But with the large crowds I had to take control to the situation since I did not want to spend more anymore than five minutes shooting each street performer. To insure I did get some candid photos, I would show the performer my tip for them, usually 4-5 euros. This way they were not concerned about me taking free photos of them. I would walk around them, shoot some photographs, then drop the money in their tip bucket and let them pose for my camera. This way the crowd can see that it just the street performer with me shooting photos and let us have a minute in without interruptions. Sometimes I will shoot good photos, other times bad photos or photos that I thought were not interesting. But it is fun for me. On the other hand it is expensive as those tips can add up over a week.

The next day I returned to the Ramblas and I found no Devil. So the next day, Monday I visited the Ramblas again and came up empty. Same thing happen on Tuesday, still no Devil. I tried again on Wednesday I was out of luck. On Thursday, I visited Montserrat, went on some nature hikes for the whole day. So I arrived back in Barcelona early evening with sore legs and feet. Skipped the Ramblas and went to bed early.

Now each day I visited the Ramblas searching for the Devil to photograph and missing the chance, I would then snap photos of other street performers. They were just as interesting as the Devil. I photographed street performers dressed as angles, gangsters, Indians and one look like golden Humphrey Bogart. There one street performer who was serving his head for dinner. Another was completely painted white; his had his pants around his ankles, sat on a toilet and read a book. It was funny just to look at him and was more fun for me to photograph the man sitting on the toilet. More importantly the street performers I was seeing on the Ramblas were fresh to me as I had not seen any of the ones from the photos I studied before my trip to Barcelona.

It was only when I came back home and reviewed my photographs; I realized something important. Since I missed the chance to take my Devil photo on the first day, I made detours almost everyday to visit the Ramblas and sometimes more than one visit during the day. Because of this missed photograph opportunity, I was trying to get a second change to shoot this Devil. It really turned into ying-yang moment, storm cloud with silver lining, a blessing in disguised. I was shooting more photographs of the street performers than I planned for during my week in Barcelona. I managed to capture more interesting street performers with my camera. I know for certain would have never photographed if I just photograph the street performers on the day I arrived because I would I taken managed to accomplish my goal, photographing Barcelona Street Performers on the first day I arrived in Barcelona.

To be honest I did see on the Las Ramblas almost daily Three Card Monty being played and looking for victims. Gypsies with babies who were begging for money. Kids with newspapers, along with the Barcelona police. I have also seen gangs of street kids in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor pick pocketing tourists and but there is hardly a mention of the crime in Madrid compared to Barcelona. I have seen more gypsies in Paris than Barcelona but the Barcelona gypsies are mention more. I also have first hand accounts of women trying to sell me twigs while during my week long stay in Sevilla (Seville). I found hardly anyone mentions these twigs sellers and I was approached twice or three times a day by them in Sevilla. The fact I did see this on the Ramblas and could pick them out from the crowd was reassuring. That is because I was aware of my surrounding and not totally involved in the Ramblas, the street performers and photography.

Early Friday morning I went to Sigtes because of my sore feet and ankles cause by the hike I did the day before when I visited Montserrat. I went because I needed to visit a place that was quiet and I could relax. Sigtes did fit the bill. Since it was Friday the beaches were almost empty, so I took off my shoes, rolled my pants up and walked along the beach for a few miles. The cool sand and Mediterranean water was what my sore feet and ankles needed. I walked along the beaches for two hours and then had a wonderful lunch. It was the best meal I had in Spain. Tomas recommend the place. After lunch I headed back to Barcelona and made my daily detour walking through the Ramblas hoping for the best because Sunday I was to fly back home to New York City. I really only had one more day in Barcelona.

I spotted my Devil. He was at different location on the Ramblas, taking a break and smoking a cigarette. I checked my pocket for some change and had a five euro coin. That’s a good tip I thought to myself. I am about to walk up to him and ask him if I could take his photo. I have five euros he not going to refused me. But my gut says not a good idea because I think it will ruin the candid photo I really wanted to shoot first. So I hang back and watched him like a hawk. I watched him smoke his cigarette. I watched him, as he inhales and exhales. I watched him for five minutes, smoking a cigarette. I can say it is boring watching someone smoke, real boring and doing it on vacation time makes it absolutely boring. But I know for certain, there is a limit to anyone smoking because eventually the cigarette burns out.

He is done and flicks what remains of his cigarette into the street. He starts walking back a few steps to a spot were his tip bucket lying on the ground it and then gets into a frozen pose behind it.

A smile comes across my face as I pull out my camera from my camera bag. I am ready, I been waiting all week for this and my search is over. I finally about to get my Devil on the Las Ramblas photo!

Bill