Yes! I too would like to know which place KungFuKid chose. Segovia or Toledo?
Last spring (2003) I chose Toledo. This spring (last week, in fact!) I chose
Segovia.
Overslept a bit on a sunny Tuesday morning (April 13) in Madrid and took the metro to the
Princípe Pío metro/train station, exited the station to the Paseo de la Florida, 11 and crossed the same Paseo de la Florida towards (towards the right) the
Hotel Florida Norte , passed the doors to the hotel and the next door is the
La Sepulvedana bus station. La Sepulvedana (web:
http://www.lasepulvedana.es/ ) You pass the exiting bus garage and then enter the door and walk down.. down... down... to the ticketing room.
I arrived there at about 9:10 a.m. so I'd just missed the 9am bus - buses run EVERY half hour starting at about 6:30 a.m. - so I casually bought my "Ida y Vuelta" (round trip) ticket at the ticket window. The ticket (which I can't find now) was only about 8 Euros and on it is the number of an assigned seat. I asked the ticket counter attendant when I could return and he said, "Anytime you like." Perfect! Absolute flexibility!
I took my round-trip ticket and went downstairs to the bus platform. There's a waiting room but I found everyone outside along the walkway and got in line.
The bus loaded at about 9:20 a.m. (I know. I know.. I'm MUCH too detailed in recounting my daytrip - I'm famous for this) and took ANY seat as I had not yet noticed the seat was assigned. Luckily, once I realized it (because one passenger told an American couple they were sitting in her seat and they promptly moved, not realizing - like me - that the seats were assigned) I looked around and saw that all the passengers who were getting on were already on and so I stayed where I was. The bus left promptly at 9:30 a.m. and drove through the Madrid morning traffic out of town, past the large hillside cross of the Valle de los Caidos (Valley of the Fallen), 1-minute drive through the tunnel passing under the snow-topped Sierra de Guadarrama mountains, and popped out the other side to a very VERY cloudy and much colder conditions.
We arrived at the Estación de Autobuses in Segovia almost exactly one-hour after leaving Madrid.
I stepped out of the station to the low-lying clouds and frigid temperatures and thought, "Oh great. I was hoping for a SUNNY day! Hmph!"
Getting my bearings I crossed the street to a kind of flag-fronted government building and from there could see the aqueduct in the distance. So I walked down the mainly pedestrian Avenida de Fernández Ladreda to the foot of the aqueduct and immediately found the
I tourist office.. - well, it was more like a portable tourist closet than an office but I entered the tiny cube and waited my turn for information and maps, which I got. I got the main, colorful Segovia guide, in English (I already had the Spanish version thanks to Antonio) which detailed and outlined (aren't these two words synonyms?) 4 different walking itinerarys with historical stops along the way. I did 3 of the 4 itineraries (the 4th one, which I did not take, was actually OUTSIDE the city walls and did go to the Iglesia de la Vera Cruz, which I'd always wanted to visit but simply didn't have time or energy this trip) and found them just fine.
I won't go into much more detail of the exact things I saw along the walking-itineraries but will say that I went into all the churches along the path, including the Cathedral, (entrance fee was 3 Euros, I believe) and took a number of inside photos until a gruff attendant told me, by shaking his finger back-and-forth, that NO photos were allowed in the cathedral. I asked him in Spanish, "What? No photos at all? Not even without flash?" But no. None were allowed at all. I hadn't seen the sign at the door - if there was one.
By now, late morning, while still very very cold the clouds were parting and lifting and blue filled the majority of the sky for the rest of the day.
Going on, I was anxious to revisit the Alcázar, the palace which everyone says Walt Disney used as a kind of model for his Disneyland Castle.
While not often mentioned, this castle was rebuilt relatively recently after it burned to the ground sometime in the last 200 years. These
recently reconstructed structures always give me a kind of let-down. (this reminds me of visiting Roman theater in Mérida during Semana Santa and seeing the tall, sculpted pilars and statues all about and thinking, 'Wow. Just beautiful!' and then saw the photos of 100 years ago and how it was in absolute ruin, not a pilar standing, totally flattened and then I thought, 'Well! This is just a *recreation* of how they believe it once looked'.)
When I got to the Alcázar and after having snapped a bunch of photos and hearing construction noises, I saw posted on the information board that the tower was CLOSED. ARGH!!!! The views from up there of the city, the cathedral, the mountains, and the valley below are just beautiful. I could have just taken the tour and skipped the tower but my disappointment got the better of me. Besides, it was already about 1:45 p.m. and I had to make my back to the city center,
TO Restaurante DUQUE for lunch. :p
Ahhh... Duque. What a great place - arguably the best, finest restaurant in all of Segovia city. Their official name is simply
Duque: Maestro Asador de Segovia (web:
http://www.restauranteduque.es ) but it's also shown as Resaturante Duque and Casa Duque on the front.
By now it was about 2:10 p.m. and there was only one other couple in the restaurante. I thought, 'Oh. It is only a Tuesday so there won't be many people here today.' I was right..... until about 3:15 p.m. where most of the downstairs dining rooms were full.
I easily chose for lunch, the
Menu Típico Segoviano (28.00 Euros) which included:
Sopa Castellana (or salad, I think)
COCHINILLO!!! (roasted suckling pig - mine had the crinkled ear, shoulder, and front right leg including the hoof)
bread
half-bottle of red wine
dessert - I chose the strawberries with cream
PLUS: They brought the nearly obligatory bottle of water (1.50 Euros - I could have instead asked for "agua de grifo" (tap water) but didn't think of it) and I also had a café con leche (1.20 Euros).
All totalled, with tip and IVA, was about 36 Euros (about $43 US) for one person. Wow. Pricey, yes, but it was SO DELICIOUS! The cochinillo was.... wow.. absolutely fantastic. My mouth watered so much I could have skipped the bottled water!
No cutting of roasted, suckling pigs with plates here. You see that image on their ads but I didn't see a single pig cut with a plate while there, including mine since it was only a quarter pig. But in the past, when with a group, the waiter cut the piggie with a knife.
After finishing and feeling stuffed and happy I went upstairs to use the restroom and snapped a couple photos of their other very beautifully decorated (and empty at the time) dining rooms. Then, after paying the bill, I took another stroll around the aqueduct and shot many many other photos from all angles against a perfectly clear blue sky.
By now it was about 5:00 p.m. and decided I'd seen enough and my feet were beginning to ache. So I made my way back to the bus station the same way I came earlier in the morning and found a bus loading for Madrid. Once I reached the door the bus driver took my ticket and told me I had to go BACK to the bus station's ticket window for a new ticket. I thought. 'Hmmm.. That's odd. I have a round-trip ticket. So I went back to the LINE at the ticket window, looking over my shoulder at the bus as well as my watch several times while waiting, then get my NEW ticket which also had an assigned seat. The bus was FULL. Every seat was taken.... EXCEPT THE ONE NEXT TO ME! Hehehee..
Just an hour earlier, at about 4:30 p.m., I finally found the temperature warm enough to take off my jacket and this bus was HOT!
The trip back to Madrid took about 1 hour and 15 minutes because of traffic. And it would have taken longer except it stopped at the Moncloa metro station where several people got off. I decided to get off there too and simple take the direct metro route "home".
Great trip and was fortunate to have had good weather. Segovia is a beautiful place for a daytrip and is QUITE distinctive from, say, Toledo. I highly recommend it.
Saludos, MadridMan