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#21188 - 09/18/02 11:56 AM
Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 03/13/01
Posts: 298
Loc: Cardiff by the Sea CA
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We recently returned from three weeks in northern Spain. I couldn't possibly report on all the amazing things we experienced--there really were no low points. But here are just a few highlights: Puente La Reina, in Navarra. We happened to drive in on the last day of the feast of Santiago. Every person in town (NO tourists!) was wearing white and red for the fiesta, and we caught the performance of the giants, huge king and queen puppets dancing through the streets. The town is gorgeous, and unspoiled by tourism. Estella, the next town over, is even more beautiful, though with slightly more tourists. Burgos, with its beautiful cathedral, quiet, great food--go stand up in a bar and point to anything, and you'll eat like a king for very little. In Asturias: do not miss Playa las Cuevas, about 20k west of Llanes. The waves crashing onto the beach have formed beautiful caves, and do not miss taking a short hike up the path to the east. You will see the most amazing green coastline, cliffs and caves, horses grazing, no one around (this in mid-August). The town of Llanes, in western Asturias, a happening place with beautiful architecture, more phenomenal food, and the best paseo--the cliff walk which goes for more than a mile--you could use up your entire memory card here. In Cantabria: San Vincente de la Barquera, spectacularly situated at the mouth of a river on the coast, a wonderful medieval section, of course more great food, and a long, deep beach with fine sand, great waves, and not a lot of people--again, in August. From the Cantabrian coast, you must drive up into the mountains and see any number of authentic, unspoiled villages. Our favorites were Carmona and San Pedro. They are right next to each other. Carmona has a parador. You'll see locals playing their sort of bowling/bocci-like kind of game, roosters in the streets. A good guidebook to use is Insight guide Northern Spain. Galicia: of course Santiago de Compostela, the coastline around La Coruña--take a long walk near the Torre de Hercules, then walk along the Paseo Maritimo. See the medieval section and the Plaza Maria Pita. Shop by Calle Major, and eat eat eat vieras, pimientos de padron, gambas al ajillo, croquetas anywhere. Alas, I can't write anymore, I'm craving pimientos de padron, and it will be at least 10 months before I get any. I hope I survive.
happy travels!
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#21190 - 09/19/02 06:02 AM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 06/05/00
Posts: 1713
Loc: Phila., PA, USA
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Did you miss: Bilbao's famous Euskadi cuisine and Frank Gehry's titanium masterpiece: the Guggenheim? Laredo & Limpias (Cristo de Limpias)? Santander & el Sardinero? Santillana del Mar? Comillas: Gaudi's Caprichos and the Universidad Pontifical? Liebana, accessible by driving south from Unquera thru the gorge of the rio Deva ( a 'white knuckler' for sure)? Fuente Dé? Covadonga, where the reconquista began with Don Pelayo's winning a battle against the Moors?
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#21191 - 09/19/02 09:35 AM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 03/13/01
Posts: 298
Loc: Cardiff by the Sea CA
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Yes, Eddie, isn't northern Spain amazing? The only thing I missed on your list was Laredo. And I loved all those things, especially Picos de Europa and the Guggenheim in Bilbao. Oh, and especially the Basque coast between Deba and Bilbao. Mundaka is fabulous! I guess I wanted to post about the more obscure places. We can't leave out the beauty of San Sebastian, and the Basque dances and games...and charming, picturesque Fuentarrabia.
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#21194 - 09/19/02 08:17 PM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Member
Registered: 01/24/01
Posts: 129
Loc: Novi, MIchigan, USA
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aidance
What was your mode of travel? I assume you drove! How much time did you spend? How much time did you spend at your favorite places?
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#21195 - 09/20/02 04:46 AM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 06/05/00
Posts: 1713
Loc: Phila., PA, USA
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Thanx for the comments, BookLady and Esperanza. They make me blush! Any such guide to northern Spain should have one part dedicated to País Vasco, with which I am not too familiar even though I have seen a cop directing traffic in Bilbao and wearing a boina. I visited San Sebastian several times during the Franco years but not recently.
I love Galizia; but I do not consider myself an authority on that Autonomous region (Xunta de Galizia - except Vigo & Santiago de Compostela); but my favorite region of Spain is Cantabria (also an Autonomous region by itself, like Principality of Asturias).
I guess you would have to say my contributions to this board collectively are my 'guide to northern Spain.' If I have first hand knowledge about a place someone is asking about, I will 'post.' If not, I don't.
As for modes of travel: I am a septuagenarian. Many car rental companies have a policy that they do not rent to people my age. So I have to rely on public transportation. For example, I took FEVE Santander-Limpias and returned (via Laredo) by bus. To visit Liebana, I take la Palomera bus line Santander-Potes. There are many private bus companies, each serving a different area. The only place I haven't found a way of reaching by bus is San Sebastian de Garabandal, just 'down the road' from Cabezon de la Sal. The reported Marian apparitions there in the early 1960's have been pretty much rejected by the Church; but pilgrims come there still ...
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#21196 - 10/31/02 09:08 PM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 08/20/01
Posts: 325
Loc: Hermosa Beach, California
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Aidance: I also just returned from Northern Spain and already know I want to return. You mentioned 2 places that really intrigued me, Puente la Reina and Carmona, but I'm not sure if they're even accessable without a car (maybe Eddie can help me out here ). In fact, I haven't been able to find out hardly anything about Carmona. When I check the parador site the only Carmona it lists is near Sevilla and I know this isn't the right one. I hope you can bring some pics on Saturday at the LA dinner gathering!
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#21197 - 11/01/02 04:53 AM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 06/05/00
Posts: 1713
Loc: Phila., PA, USA
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CathyM writes: ... You mentioned 2 places that really intrigued me, Puente la Reina and Carmona, but I'm not sure if they're even accessable without a car (maybe Eddie can help me out here Sorry, CathyM - I've been to several villages in the mountains of Cantabria & Asturias but I can't recall Carmona.
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#21198 - 11/01/02 10:27 AM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 07/07/00
Posts: 1437
Loc: Charlotte, NC. U.S.A.
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Carmona is south of Madrid - not far from Cordoba. Try this link to locate Carmona http://www3.mappy.com/
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#21199 - 11/01/02 01:33 PM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 10/17/00
Posts: 1495
Loc: Idaho
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It was interesting to read aidance's take on Puente la Reina. It is one of the more heavily-traveled spots on the pilgrimage route to Santiago, so may seem oddto hear the unspoiled by tourism comment...nevertheless, it is still a small town, still has a great old quarter, and then the famous "puente". Worth a trip for history's sake: It is here that the caminos from St. Jean Pied-de-Port/Roncesvalles and Somport/Jaca converge to form one.
_________________________
Ongi etorri!
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#21200 - 11/01/02 03:55 PM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Executive Member
Registered: 08/20/01
Posts: 325
Loc: Hermosa Beach, California
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Now, I'm confused.
From the initial posting and from a map I found, I thought that there was a Carmona in Cantabria in addition to the village about 45 minutes from Sevilla.
Aidence, can you clarify? The village you described sounded lovely.
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#21201 - 11/01/02 05:53 PM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Member
Registered: 02/27/02
Posts: 86
Loc: Boston, MA USA
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Wow...I was in Carmona a scant month ago. Yes, there is a Carmona in Cantabria. viamichelin.com brings it up, if you want to see a map. Here's a photo from "El Diario Montañes:" photo It is a beautiful Cantabrian village, very small, with traditional stone houses and architecture. the setting is magnificent. the drive there, form Cabezon de la Sal, was beautiful. Great hiking around there as well. I do not think there is a parador there, rather there is a posada (an inn) where we stopped for a cup of coffee.
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#21202 - 11/01/02 06:29 PM
Re: Northern Spain highlights
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Junior Member
Registered: 10/14/02
Posts: 22
Loc: GEORGIA
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Forgive me, but you all have so much knowledge and love of Spain to share, I just wonder if you all couldn't find a way to display it for all of us to share. I came across the "Travelog" section of the Conde Nast site, (most of them don't do it justice) but I know ya'll could. If pictures speak a thousand words...
_________________________
THE MORE I TRAVEL, THE MORE I LIVE.
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