We recently returned from three weeks in northern Spain. I couldn't possibly report on all the amazing things we experienced--there really were no low points. But here are just a few highlights: Puente La Reina, in Navarra. We happened to drive in on the last day of the feast of Santiago. Every person in town (NO tourists!) was wearing white and red for the fiesta, and we caught the performance of the giants, huge king and queen puppets dancing through the streets. The town is gorgeous, and unspoiled by tourism. Estella, the next town over, is even more beautiful, though with slightly more tourists. Burgos, with its beautiful cathedral, quiet, great food--go stand up in a bar and point to anything, and you'll eat like a king for very little. In Asturias: do not miss Playa las Cuevas, about 20k west of Llanes. The waves crashing onto the beach have formed beautiful caves, and do not miss taking a short hike up the path to the east. You will see the most amazing green coastline, cliffs and caves, horses grazing, no one around (this in mid-August). The town of Llanes, in western Asturias, a happening place with beautiful architecture, more phenomenal food, and the best paseo--the cliff walk which goes for more than a mile--you could use up your entire memory card here. In Cantabria: San Vincente de la Barquera, spectacularly situated at the mouth of a river on the coast, a wonderful medieval section, of course more great food, and a long, deep beach with fine sand, great waves, and not a lot of people--again, in August. From the Cantabrian coast, you must drive up into the mountains and see any number of authentic, unspoiled villages. Our favorites were Carmona and San Pedro. They are right next to each other. Carmona has a parador. You'll see locals playing their sort of bowling/bocci-like kind of game, roosters in the streets. A good guidebook to use is Insight guide Northern Spain. Galicia: of course Santiago de Compostela, the coastline around La Coruña--take a long walk near the Torre de Hercules, then walk along the Paseo Maritimo. See the medieval section and the Plaza Maria Pita. Shop by Calle Major, and eat eat eat vieras, pimientos de padron, gambas al ajillo, croquetas anywhere. Alas, I can't write anymore, I'm craving pimientos de padron, and it will be at least 10 months before I get any. I hope I survive.

happy travels!

Aidance, great to hear you and hubby had a wonderful time!!!! When you have more free time to spare let us know more details!!!!!

Did you miss:
Bilbao's famous Euskadi cuisine and Frank Gehry's titanium masterpiece: the Guggenheim?
Laredo & Limpias (Cristo de Limpias)?
Santander & el Sardinero?
Santillana del Mar?
Comillas: Gaudi's Caprichos and the Universidad Pontifical?
Liebana, accessible by driving south from Unquera thru the gorge of the rio Deva ( a 'white knuckler' for sure)?
Fuente Dé?
Covadonga, where the reconquista began with Don Pelayo's winning a battle against the Moors?

Yes, Eddie, isn't northern Spain amazing? The only thing I missed on your list was Laredo. And I loved all those things, especially Picos de Europa and the Guggenheim in Bilbao. Oh, and especially the Basque coast between Deba and Bilbao. Mundaka is fabulous! I guess I wanted to post about the more obscure places. We can't leave out the beauty of San Sebastian, and the Basque dances and games...and charming, picturesque Fuentarrabia.

Eddie,
You must write a Guide to Northern Spain! Your conversant knowledge of the area would be invaluable to the traveler. Particularly your advice on whether it is worthwhile to take a train, bus or drive through a particular area in order not to miss those masterpieces or places hidden away off the beaten path!

I totally agree, Booklady! Eddie is a wealth of information...he is also a wonderful person. We were fortunate to meet him in Philadelphia this summer...and I would say it was a highlight of my summer. Eddie really knows and LOVES Spain and especially the North. Aidance, I loved your post and savored every word. My husband and I have been to most of the places you mention, and yes...it is an amazing coastline. The food, the mountains and ,of course, the ambiente of the north is spectacular. Keep writing. I would love to hear more.

aidance

What was your mode of travel? I assume you drove! How much time did you spend? How much time did you spend at your favorite places?

Thanx for the comments, BookLady and Esperanza. They make me blush! Any such guide to northern Spain should have one part dedicated to País Vasco, with which I am not too familiar even though I have seen a cop directing traffic in Bilbao and wearing a boina. I visited San Sebastian several times during the Franco years but not recently.

I love Galizia; but I do not consider myself an authority on that Autonomous region (Xunta de Galizia - except Vigo & Santiago de Compostela); but my favorite region of Spain is Cantabria (also an Autonomous region by itself, like Principality of Asturias).

I guess you would have to say my contributions to this board collectively are my 'guide to northern Spain.' If I have first hand knowledge about a place someone is asking about, I will 'post.' If not, I don't.

As for modes of travel: I am a septuagenarian. Many car rental companies have a policy that they do not rent to people my age. So I have to rely on public transportation. For example, I took FEVE Santander-Limpias and returned (via Laredo) by bus.
To visit Liebana, I take la Palomera bus line Santander-Potes. There are many private bus companies, each serving a different area. The only place I haven't found a way of reaching by bus is San Sebastian de Garabandal, just 'down the road' from Cabezon de la Sal. The reported Marian apparitions there in the early 1960's have been pretty much rejected by the Church; but pilgrims come there still ...

Aidance:

I also just returned from Northern Spain and already know I want to return. You mentioned 2 places that really intrigued me, Puente la Reina and Carmona, but I'm not sure if they're even accessable without a car (maybe Eddie can help me out here ).

In fact, I haven't been able to find out hardly anything about Carmona. When I check the parador site the only Carmona it lists is near Sevilla and I know this isn't the right one.

I hope you can bring some pics on Saturday at the LA dinner gathering!

CathyM writes: Sorry, CathyM - I've been to several villages in the mountains of Cantabria & Asturias but I can't recall Carmona.