Well, first I want to apologize for waiting 2 weeks to post since I returned from my trip. I've had relatives visiting and work has been crazy so my free time has been very limited.

I spent 2 1/2 weeks in Northern Spain and had an absolutely incredible trip. I travelled by myself with the exception of 3 nights when I met up with friends in Barcelona. Although I was slightly worried about traveling as a solo female traveler in a country where I don't speak much of the language, the fears were totally unfounnded and I've decided that solo travel is THE way to go.

I used public transportation, with the exception of when I met my friends in Barcelona and we rented a car. I never felt closer to the culture and people of Spain than during this trip, perhaps because I was by myself and getting around on my own that I "forced" myself to jump right into everything. All I know is that Northern Spain (both scenery and the people, not to mention the food) is incredible, I love Spain more than ever, and I've already decided that next year's vacation is: Spain!

I'm not sure how to present this topic so I thought I'd post a brief summary of where I went and then expand upon each location in future posts on this topic. And, or course answering any questions that I get along the way.

My itinerary went as follows:

Day 1: left US
Day 2: arrive Madrid; train to Zaragoza
short day trip visit to Zaragoza (2 hrs)
train to Olite
Day 3: Olite (preview - an absolutely enchanting city)
Day 4: bus to Pamplona for day trip
bus to San Sebastian
Day 5: bus to Hondarribia for day trip
return to SS in afternoon
Day 6: bus to Bilbao for day trip
bus to Santander
Day 7: bus to Santillana/San Vicente for day trip
Day 8: bus to Oviedo
Day 9: train to Leon
Day 10: Leon
Day 11: train to Burgos for day trip; overnight train to Barcelona
Day 12&13: Barcelona
Day 14: car to Cadaques arriving in late afternoon
Day 15: car to Girona arriving in late afternoon
Day 16: supposed to leave Girona w/friends and return to Barcelona but couldn't leave this city so soon; remained in Girona for another day.
Day 17: train to Barcelona in a.m.
Day 18: couldn't get on flights back to USA (stand-by) so had to spend another day in Barcelona. Flew to London in late, late evening, slept in airport and took first flight back to USA in morning.

I'll post more details on the individual cities, hotels and transportation details later.

CathyM: You can save most of the details for when we all get together for LA Dinner Group, but I do want your impressions of Cadaqués, Olite and Hondarribia. ¡Adelante!

HUFF! PUFF! HUFF! PUFF! CathyM!!! I'm EXHAUSTED just reading your itinerary!! Yours looks JUST like we here tell people NOT to do when they go for that 2-week vacation in Spain. Still, sounds like it was nothing but a successful and memorable trip for you and for that I'm happy.

May you dream of Spain every night for the rest of your life.

Saludos, MadridMan

MadridMan:
It actually sounds like alot but other than Oviedo and Cadaques all of my stays were 2 nights, and most of the travel time between cities was no longer than 3 hours total with a break (day trip) in between. Isn't that about how your itinerary went in Galicia last spring?

For example:
Olite to Pamplona = 45 minutes
Pamplona to San Sebastian = 2 hrs.

San Sebastian - Bilbao = 1 hr.
Bilbao - Santander = 1 hr. (approx)

Cadaques - Girona = 1 hr.
Girona - Barcelona = 1 hr.

Perhaps by listing all of the cities I visited along the way it seemed alot more than it really was. :o

As long as you pick a small geography, it's not so bad. It's not like I was traveling 8 hours between destinations each day and then only staying one night and leaving the next day for another 8 hour journey. I was able to have a leisurly lunch, nap and a nice dinner every day and never felt rushed. The only exception is Oviedo. I went mainly for the festival but the old town was much lovelier than I expected. I really hated to leave after only one night but will definately visit again. I only spent one night in Cadaques but it's very quaint and quite doable as a day trip even (as many guide books recommend). I returned to Barcelona for 1 night at the end but that was just because it was convenient for my flight the next day instead of coming in from Girona.

I'll start and highlight some of the cities I visited:

I. Olite
This was a true gem, located about 45 minutes south of Pamplona. I arrived by train (regionale) around 6 pm and was the only passenger that got off in Olite. I was a little nervous but using some directions the parador had sent me headed off walking towards the hotel. I passed a couple of people dressed in white pants and shirts, with a red sash and bandana and initially thought they must be working the festival. I knew there was a festival beginning that day and lasting a week but wasn't quite sure what to expect. As I got closer to the parador I realized that practically everyone was decked out in full festival attire .

I checked in and had planned on a nap then a late dinner. However, when I asked the reception about the evenings festivities I was told that there was going to be a running of bulls through the streets and main square at 7:30. :p I couldn't pass this up so I quickly cleaned up and went outside to the main square. There was a parade of the gigantes, bands and then the bull run. I couldn't believe it! It was like San Fermin in a little town (3,000 people) unspoilt by mass tourism (did I mention I stood out like a sore thumb as most of the "tourists" were from the surrounding area)! Later than evening, after a couple of vinos and tapas, I was sitting in the square enjoying the atmosphere when all of a sudden there was a big commotion. I man "wearing" over the top half of his body a metal frame shaped like a bull came into the square and the children were all chasing him as fireworks shot out of the side of the metal bull frame. The parents were following the children shouting "ole". At first I thought the wine had gone to my head but I later read that this also occurs in Pamplona during San Fermin(there's a name for this metal frame but it slips my memory).

The next day, Saturday, was more of the same as far as the festival goes. Olite is also a beautiful town in it's own right with a castle and very well preserved town. It was wonderful just rambling around and coming upon things quite by accident - like the children playing under and around the gigantes that were standing upright outside the church as noon mass was going on.

On Sunday morning I planned to take the 8:30 a.m. bus to Pamplona where I would visit for a few hours on my way to San Sebastian which was another hour away. The festival activities which were posted in spanish in handwriting on the main square, mentioned a 7:00 a.m. women's parade (I believe it was called parade of the dianas). I figured I'd get ready early and then be able to see part of the parade. I had envinsioned a traditional parade with perhaps the gigantes and a small band. Boy was I wrong. I got to the square and first noticed that all of the bars that had been open the evening before were still open and full of people. Then I noticed the "women" - women with blue wigs, outrageous costumes, some women who were men, etc.... This wasn't exactly what I had in mind but it was all part of being there! A small band came by and the women followed the band and proceeded to parade out of the square. I was trying to determine if they were returning or if I should try to follow them, when a man approached me and was trying to get me to go into the bar and have a drink with him and his friends. His friends came over and I tried (with my limited spanish) to explain that 7 a.m. was a little early for me to start drinking (maybe if I had been all night if would be different ). We compromised and I had an orangina and spent the next hour meeting these 3 nice men.

Then I was off to Pamplona and had to leave lovely Olite. It was very special, partly because of the festival, but also because it was truly a beautiful town.

More city reviews to continue but I must get back to work before I get fired. :o

Wonderful! Keep posting your memories as time allows!

Your trip sounds wonderful! I have never been to Olite, but it is now on my (very long!) list of places I will try to visit. You are so lucky to have been there for the festival. Keep posting! I love reading about your journey.

CathyM,
Gracias for sharing. I think you and Eddie should team up with MM and write a Guide to Northern Spain. It is needed.

Cathy M, that wounds like a great trip. You know, one town every 2 nights doesn't sound rushed to me at all, especially when you are in small towns. I travelled by myself in Greece this spring and went to tiny island villages every 2 days. I went out by myself and talked to anyone who would talk to me. It was fun.

I like how you got to see a local "bull run"!

Booklady: Thanks for the compliment but I only have two N.Spain trips under my belt and hope someday to just have a fraction of the in depth knowledge that Eddie & CaliBasco (to mention just a couple) have!

I'll continue from my arrival in Pamplona on the morning of day 3 (Sunday):

II. Pamplona
I spent about 6 hours in Pamplona as a stop between Olite and San Sebastian. I felt that this was just the right amount of time for me to see what I wanted to see at a reasonable pace and still have time for a nice lunch.

It was a short walk from the bus station to the old town. I came first upon the Plaza del Castillo, which I'd read was the beautiful main square in the old town area. Unfortunately it was completely dug up and under renovations so all of the square was closed up. I was a little disappointed but this quickly disappeared as I made my way through the maze of streets on my way to the cathedral. The buildings had a yellowish brown tinge. I also noticed for the first time the Basque flag displayed in several windows and hanging from poles in front of some restaurants and shops. The cathedral was open but unfortunately the Museo Diocesceno was closed on Sundays. I should have realized that Pamplona was on the pilgrimage route to Santiago but hadn't and I was surprised when I met a Canadian couple (the first native english speakers I'd met since I left Madrid) who were making the pilgrimage. After the cathedral I visited the Museo de Navarra. The museum has quite a nice collection of regional art & history and I highly recommend it. As the museum was next to the corral where the bulls are kept during San Fermin, I couldn't resist walking the route of the bulls and ended up in front of the bullright with the statue of Hemingway. Along the route, I now noticed signs for the pilgramage route that went winded through the streets of the old town.

By now, I had worked up an appetite so I had a wonderful lunch at an historic restaurant in the plaza (no view this time so I guess I'll have to return when the plaza renovations are completed ). Then it was time to catch the bus to San Sebastian.