I'll be spending a week in Galicia and am trying to put together an itinerary. I'll be leaving from Los Angeles April 6 and will probably then fly into Galicia from Madrid on the 7th. I'll then fly back into Madrid on the morning of the 14th and head home.

How should I divide up the trip between day-trips and my home base(s)? At first I thought I'd spend the entire week in Santiago de Compostela and do day trips but the more I read about the Rias Bajas and Rias Altas I don't know if this is the way to go. Should I break it up and spend 2 nights in La Coruna doing day trips along the northern coast, 2 nights in the Rias Bajas (Vigo or Pontevedra?)and do day trips to other cities like Tui/Bayona/ etc..., and end with 3 nights in Santiago?

I don't want to try to push too much into every day but I'm also a person that doesn't like to just relax on my vacation either. I'll be traveling by myself and am
just beginning to learn basic spanish. I enjoy historical sites and churches in
particular -not much into the outdoorsy stuff.

Also, I'll be returning in September for 17 days in Northern Spain - Barcelona across through Asturius - so I didn't want to cover a large geography with this shorter trip.

I'd love to get some advise on where to stay and how long in each location,possible day trips, restaurants/tapas (I've heard the food is excellent), hotels, etc....

Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

How were you planning on getting around in Galicia, by car or bus? A car would make your plan B a lot easier to do with the freedom of stopping in a village or coastal town for a few hours before moving on. Without a car you may find yourself always trying to catch a bus.
If you find yourself in Padron, there's a great rural home called Casa de Marcelo ph. 981 81 02 10. If you are interested in seeing how lace is made, Camariñas (northern coast) is the place to go. It's amazing the skill these women have (mind boggling how they do it). Monte de Santa Tecla and Isla de la Toja are also interesting stops but difficult to reach without a car (you'd probably spend the whole day trying to get there).
Don't forget to try Tarta de Santiago, one of my favorites! If you want to make it at home, be sure to get a few bags of ground almonds to take back with you (and speaking from experience, make sure your husband doesn't think they are breadcrumbs)! Be sure and try the baked scallops (Vieiras) while you're there, they are to die for! If you're into smoked cheese, San Simon is my favorite; Tetilla is also popular but IMHO not as yummy! And, of course, you've got to have the octopus. I must go; I'm salivating just thinking about it.

[ 02-10-2002: Message edited by: nevado ]

I agree with Nevado that having a car will make it much easier on you to do the sightseeing you seem to want to do. Nevado talked about a lot of wonderful gallego specialties, but failed to mention La Empanada Gallega...it is in almost every tapas bar in Galicia, so you cannot miss it. It is a large "pot pie" like food yet it is finger food, it isn't saucy. It can be filled with meat, fish, seafood, vegetables, etc. It depends on the family...my family makes one of bacalao and one of chicken (my favorite!) It is amazingly delicious. As a matter of fact, Penelope Casas' book Tapas has a wonderful recipe for Empananda de Vieras (scallop empanada). Whenever I make it I get rave reviews.
As for places to go in Galicia: Santiago can take a few days to explore, so enjoy and don't rush it. If you like ceramics, a Galician ceramic company "Sargadelos" makes beautiful blue and white (their trademark) dishes and statues. They have store in Santiago on rua Nova, 16. If you plan to go to Camariñas, you should go to Cabo Fisterre (the end of the world)...it has a spectacular panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean and the end of the Spanish coast.

I also love Santa Tecla, the celtic settlement...(although the museum needs a MAJOR renovation, the actual settlement is impressive.)
Whatever you do you will love Galica, its food (!!), its ambiente, and its people. Buen viaje.

Hola!

CathyM you say you will be traveling by yourself. I was thinking of doing a similar trip at some point by car since I didn't get to see Santiago on my first trip, just some rural areas in Cabana ... Galicia seems like a pretty safe place for a woman to travel alone, does anyone have anything to add to that?

Another point is that folks speak mainly gallego over there, at least in my experience. Luckily I was traveling with a gallego on that trip, but I found that most people, while very friendly and full of smiles, didn't make an extra effort to speak to me in Spanish (I am completely fluent). Just something to keep in mind ...

CathyM also don't forget to try pimentos de padron, percebes as well as the octupus and empanada, all washed down with ribeiro or alvarinho wine. I'm with nevado ... I'm salivating just thinking about it.

Churrito

Esperanza, how about sending some of that empanada you make! I feel like Homer Simpson, hmmmmmm, empanadaaaaaa!
My husband (poor guy, I only mention his mess ups) just happened to break TWO of my sargadelos baking dishes this past weekend. I was almost in tears.
Here's something funny, while in Padron, I couldn't find the pimientos on the menus for the life of me. We were there during their feria and it had a nice "pueblo" feeling about it (I love those small town ferias in Spain)!

[ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: nevado ]

OH BOY OH BOY OH BOY!! Now I'M excited about this thread. After talking with my ladyfriend in Madrid, we've come to an agreement about spending a few days in Galicia during Semana Santa, mainly in SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA!!!! WOO HOO!!! You can be sure I'll be looking up all of Eddie's old postings about this region of Spain which neither I nor my ladyfriend have visited.

Saludos, MadridMan

Hi!

When I was in Galizia I spend some days in A Coruña and some days in Vigo. From Vigo you can visit easily all the Rias Bajas (Tui, Cambados, Pontevedra, Islas Cíes ...). But, from A Coruña it was a bit difficult to reach an see the north of Galizia because it was too far. From A Coruña we visited Santiago, Finisterre and other places.

A car is needed to travel freely and to reach all these places.

Bye.

MM, I was in Santiago for Semana Santa a few years ago and the processions were very nice. There weren't tons of people and you could get right up there in the front row, making for great photo ops. Sounds like a great way to spend a few days!

I was so surprised and excited with the responses to my posting.

I should have been more specific, but unfortunately I will not have a car and will rely on bus and train travel. I can't drive a stick and it would be difficult navigating and driving by myself in addition to the expense of the rental.

I'm so happy to hear that MadridMan and his lady friend will be journeying to this area and hopefully can reap the benefits of his research on this area too.

Now I have additional specific questions:

1) It appears that there is more to see in the Rias Bajas versus La Coruna. Perhaps I should spend 4 nights (with a day trip to La Coruna) in Santiago and 3 nights in the the Rias Bajas. Would this be too long in each of these places considering I'd be doing day trips? Or is La Coruna worth 2 nights or at least 1?

2) I had heard the processionals weren't all that great in Santiago and it really wouldn't be a big deal to go over Semana Santa. I have a "buddy pass" I'm using to fly so I can go anytime (standby only however). I made the decision to go after Easter figuring there would be a good possibility I would get on flying standby and with only a week don't want to risk loosing days on either end of my trip. Is it worth the risk to make it for Holy Week (I'd have to leave March 23 and return easter Sunday)?

Thanks again, everyone for all of your help.

[ 02-11-2002: Message edited by: CathyM ]

Cathy, I wouldn't change your whole plan just to see the processions, they are nice but nothing compared to Sevilla, for example. If you were there, fine, but I wouldn't risk not getting a seat to try and be there for Semana Santa (unless you can talk MM into inviting you to a quemada).
As for A Coruña, I think a day trip would be just fine but I'm sure others would argue it deserves more time. I think choosing two places to "set up camp" is a wise choice since you're not getting a car.

I spent some time in Galicia quite some time ago. Pontevedra was very nice, with many dance clubs and modern shopping areas. I remember how impressed I was with their shopping mall.

However, if you want a great place to stay, spend a night at the Parador in Baiona. It's magnificent. You can explore the grounds and the walls around it for hours. I have great memories of watching the waves crash into the rocky shore on a moonlight night. It was by far my favorite place to stay in Spain.

I know you can reach Baiona by bus. Here is a link to a site about the city.
http://baiona.com/

Good luck and have fun!

Although my father is from a small town near La Coruña, and I have been there many times...I think that considering your plans , you could skip La Coruña :o and concentrate on las Rías Baixas. Pontevedra IS charming and easy to get to know...and I also would recommend the Parador of Baiona...it has a gorgeous setting.

Another vote for the Parador in Baiona! It's so beautiful. I wanted to get married there but my husband thought it would be too far for the guests. Good thing I didn't, they complained about having to drive an hour and a half!

Let me begin by saying that Semana Santa this year is the last week of March. So you are outside that 'window.'

I like the Castillo del Conde de Gondomar in Baiona too; and if CathyM were going in July or September, I would heartily recommend it. Much of its charm comes from its location at the mouth of the ria de Vigo: a 'thumbs up' in the summer months, but in early April???

A Travel Agency there might be able to set up a tour to Monte Santa Tecla (la Guardia). It's definitely worth the effort as is the coastal route from Baiona south to la Guardia.

I visited Santiago in February once (for An Troido in '99) and had good weather. But you can't count on the weather cooperating in the Spring. The fact that you are going in early April ... Galicia's Weather might be a bit wet then; so don't expect to be able to do many outdoorsy things that time of year. In Santiago, I recommend Hostal Hogar San Francisco, a 'working' Franciscan convent (Friars, not Nuns). And in Vigo I like Hotel America: nice location a block off the Plaza de Compostela and the Puerto Deportivo (Marina), near la Pedra marketplace and the Cathedral of Santiago de Vigo. Both those hotels are 3-star category

[ 02-12-2002: Message edited by: Eddie ]

We spent a month in A Coruna last summer, and loved every moment of it. It was heartbreaking to leave. It's definitely worth more than a day trip. The downtown is hopping and the people are really nice. Everyone will speak Spanish as well as Gallego--but don't count on any English (one of the plusses, to my mind). Nightlife is stellar around Calle Major and just off the Playa Riazor. Make sure to eat pimientos de Padron, vieras, and especially gambas ajillo (shrimp in garlic sauce)--and of course, chorizo. In fact, make sure to spend lots of time eating tapas because you'll never eat as well in your life.

You might want to rethink the car idea. It's quite cheap to rent a car in Spain if you do it from the States. The roads are great, not crowded, and signs are easy to follow in that part of Spain.

With or without a car, I would see A Coruna, Santiago de Compostela, Pontevedra, maybe Vigo. With a car, you could include Finisterre, Camarinas..... The coastline anywhere in Galicia is spectacular. I hope you have good weather, because it could be raining constantly. Still, it's beautiful, and what a treat to be there without tourists. Lucky you.

Now I am really confused.....

Should I:

1) Do 1-2 nights in La Coruna, 2-3 nights in the Rias Bajas, and the remainder (3-4 nights) in Santiago.

2) skip La Coruna (as an overnight at least) and spend 3 nights in the Rias Bajas, and 4 nights in Santiago

OR

3) skip La Coruna (as overnight) and spend 2 nights in the Rias Bajas, 3 nights in Santiago and 2 nights in LEON? I could fly to Leon on day 1. It's supposed to be a beautiful town.

4) 2 nights Rias Bajas
3 nights Santiago
2 nights Barcelona (I could fly into Barcelona instead of Madrid).

Ugh. I can't seem to make up my mind. I don't want to push too much into only 7 nights but I don't want to be bored either. I need to get my air (within Spain) and hotel reservations made soon.

Any thoughts on adding Leon or Barcelona?

[ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: CathyM ]

Spend time in Compostela. There is much to see that most people don't even know about. The cathedral alone is worth a day...and check the schedule for when pilgrim's mass is said. When you get to Compostela, you'll know exactly what I mean about spending time there. To me, it's old quarter is second only to Toledo, but is uniquely medieval. Take time to soak in the ambience, as there are seemingly endless "undiscovered" treasures in the forms of convents, monasteries, churches, chapels, manor houses, and of course...don't miss eating the bread from Pan Compostela on the main old-town drag...as well as lunch at Casa Manolo...again, in the old part. Just ask ANYONE "¿dónde está Casa Manolo?" They'll know....

I've spent nights in Pontevedra, and recommend it, but perhaps you'd like to look for yourself...check out the webcams on TV Galicia's web site, at www.crtvg.es . You can get a good look at Baiona, Tuy, Pontevedra and many other sites.

For me, though I've been twice, Coruña isn't an overnight stop. I'm sure that if I'd do a little more research, it could be, but Santiago's your jewel, and Pontevedra/Vigo along with the other places people have recommended, are worthy stops.

Cathy, now you're talking crazy! Stick to Galicia as planned and you won't regret it. You'll be able to taste all the foods and get a feel for the area, no sense mixing in Barcelona and León. Save them for another trip or two, or three or...

Cathy,
I agree with nevado and Calibasco...GO to Galicia...you will ADORE it. Stay with the plan to spend a good amount of time in Santiago, it is a magical place! You are certain to love it. Don't add on León or Barcelona on this trip...it is way too much! You can stick to las Rias Baixas and be very content exploring. I think your #2 plan is great. buen viaje!

I believe San Telmo is the name of the Parador Naciónal in Tui. Festivals honoring Saints are usually fixed dates (San Fermin, San José, Santiago, Santo Toribio, etc.). The 'two weeks after Easter' (like the feria de abril in Sevilla) is a movable date. One exception is the Romeria de la Virgen del Rocio, celebrated on Pentecost Sunday which, like Easter is a movable Church Holy Day. There is something celebrated in Tui called the Eel Festival (Festival de la Angula). It may not be very appetizing but if all the other festival motifs are already spoken for, you go with what you've got ...
CathyM: There's a Talgo that departs Madrid (Chamartin) for Santiago about 1:30 PM. It gets to Santiago (or Vigo) around 9:00 PM. It splits at Redondela de Galizia (yes, there's such a place), one segment to Vigo and the other north to a'Corunha. Here's Hostal Hogar San Francisco's phone number:
57 25 64 or 57 27 64. You have to put the 011 34 (and then either an '8' or a '9' for Galicia). I think it's an '8.'

[ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: Eddie ]

Thanks to all again.

I think I was temporarily insane yesterday at lunch. Too much stress and decision making at work was clouding my vacation judgement :o

I think I'll agree with Esparanza that option #2 with 4 nights in Santiago and 3 in the Rias Bajas is the way to go. Now I've got to figure out if I want to spend all 3 nights in one place in the Rias Bajas or 2 and 1 and then where do I stay in the (Vigo, Pontevedra, Tui, Baiona.........). Do I dare solicit even more great advice ?

Eddie - Thanks for the information on the train, hotel and festival.

If it wasn't for this board it would be difficult to plan this trip - not as much information readily available compared to my trip in October.

Here's an informative website on the rias baixas.

http://www.riasbaixas.org/html/us/0/index.shtml

There are links to the local festivals, pictures, and rural tourism- lot's of info.

CathyM writes: That's what we're here for, Cathy. One year ('98, I believe), we found a weekend special at the 4-star Bahia Vigo (an Hotel right at the Port of Vigo). The 'special' (available until 31 May) is for 2-people, 2-weekend nights and it includes full buffet breakfast. I don't remember exactly how much it cost: less than most 4-star hotels including Playa Samil. We had an 8th floor ria-front room with balcony. Ask for Señor Ballesteros. There's a Travel Agency on the street in the Hotel building. They may be able to fix you up with a tour (or the Hotel Concierge might help).
More recently (year '99) I stayed at 3-star Hotel America, about 300m from the Bahia Vigo, just off the Plaza de Compostela. The only reason it is not a 4-star is that it doesn't have a full service restaurant.
If you want some ethnic revitalization, you can find it in a nightclub called Dublin (in Vigo). From the Renfe station, walk right, past the Hostal de la Estación, cross the street and go down the first street on your left. You'll see it on your right. Part of the Chieftains' Santiago album was recorded there.

Thought I'd update everyone on my trip plans and see if anyone can offer up any more excellent advice :

A friend of mine was able to arrange a week off work and she'll be joining me on this trip.

She doesn't mind driving (as long as I navigate ) so we'll be renting a car (like many of you suggested).

I'm so excited and keep looking for Madridman posts in his journal since he's visiting Galicia this week.

Now that you'll have a car for this trip, are you driving from Madrid to Galicia? We did it last year, takes about 6 to 7 hours. A great place to stop exactly on the way is Astorga. It has some interesting Gaudi architecture, a chocolate museum and just enough interesting stuff to make for a worthwhile few hours break or overnight stop. Or, you could go 45 minutes out of your way to see the Leon Cathedral, which is spectacular. That could also be done as a few hours stop--we did exactly that on our way back from Galicia to Madrid. Enjoy!

We'll be flying from Madrid to Vigo mainly due to the fact that the trip is only for 7 nights and I absolutely hate the thought of spending 7 hours on the road after the flights.

I'm also going to have quite an adventure getting there by air. I'm flying on a pass so I have to go stand-by. The way it works out I'll end up taking a red eye one night from LA then the night night flying from NY to Madrid. In all I'll have to "visit" 6 airports before I make it to Vigo.

CathyM, I know you've already taken your trip throughout Galicia but thought this would be the best place to post the link to my Galicia photos taken during Semana Santa 2002. You'll see about 400 photos of that trip HERE in my ClubPhoto account. Sorry that the photos aren't labeled yet, but will do that in time. Hope it brings back many happy memories for you, CathyM! Photos inclde Astorga, Leon, Santiago de Compostela, Cabo de Fisterra, Cambados, Noia, Sanxenxo, Tui, Barca Portugal, and many others. Enjoy!!!!

Saludos, MadridMan