I'm planning a trip (about 17 days)in September 2002 to Northern Spain. I haven't even started my planning so I figure now would be a great time to solicit opinions/ideas on how long on what cities to visit. I enjoy historical sites and good food, and usually moderate sized cities so I'm not overwhelmed. I'm a female and will probably be traveling alone. I'll be using public transportation (combo of air/train/bus) and don't speak any spanish (although I hope to at least take a night school class before my trip ). My hotel budget is about $100/day - I'm not on a strict trip budget but don't usually go overboad as I like to fit in with the locals.

I definately want to visit Santiago and probably Barcelona. I've also read a little and may be interested in Leon, Burgos, Pamplona, Vigo, and Santillina del Mar.

Any advise on locations to visit and amount of time to spend in each is greatly appreciated
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Hi Cathy! Definitely plan to spend at least a couple of days in Barcelona. I would recommend 3-4 since there is a lot to see. Do not miss Parc Güell (Gaudi´s park) as well as the "Manzana de Discordia" and of course the Sagrada Familia and the Museo de Picasso. The regional language of Barcelona is Catalán, although if pressed, the locals will speak Spanish (castellano) to you. Santiago is also a great choice as is A Coruña, both cities are in Galicia where the regional language is Gallego. My personal favorite is San Sebastian. A beautiful seaside town (Bay of Vizcaya) due north of Madrid. A note about San Sebastian and, Pamplona...these two cities form part of Vascongadas...the Basque region of Spain. There is frequent ETA terrorist activity... sometimes in these cities, but more often in Madrid. Nothing to be frightened of, but certainly aware of. Pamplona is better to visit in early July during the fiesta of San Fermin (running of the bulls). However, it was a Hemmingway hot spot (For Whom the Bell Tolls). Burgos is well known for its convent. Hope this info helps!

Been there! Done that!
Last Sept (wife & I) spent several days in Santander, my favorite city on the north coast. Try to be there Sept 15: Día de Cantabria. They celebrate it, big time! That's the day we headed back to Madrid because I didn't know about it beforehand. Sardinero is where University Internacional Menendez Pelayo (UIMP, pronounced 'wimp') main campus is located. It's also a great beach resort - I got to go swimming there last September. They also celebrate a 19th Century visit by the King & Queen of Spain around September 10th - everyone dresses in period costumes: Very nice!!

We travelled from Madrid & back on Continental-Auto Motorcoach (Madrid's Avda. de America bus terminal). Some of them stop in Burgos; others don't. We did bus tours from Santander to San Vicente-Comillas-Santillana del Mar (one full day tour - about a 3-hour stop in Santillana for dinner & whatever); and to Fuente De & los Picos de Europa (another full-day tour). Don't buy the 'package' that includes dinner. It's served 'family style,' eight people (and one bottle of wine) to a table. You can dine independently, get a much better meal (and service) and have more time to explore and shop in Potes.

We day-tripped independently to Bilbao and we met the bus guide from our previous day's tour in Plaza Vieja. We took the Bus Vision tour of Bilbao (got off at the Guggenheim).

We took FEVE (Ferrocarril Español de Via Estrecha) from Santander to Limpias, site of 'Cristo de Limpias,' and also site of a new Parador that was under construction in July, 2001. Then we 'bussed' Limpias-Lareco and back to Santander.

I have visited San Sebastian and although a lot of people on this forum rave about it, I think its beaches (Concha & Ondaretta) are a bit overrated when one compares them with Sardinero (Santander) or Llanes (Asturias).

This July, I took a bus Santander-Barcelona (9-hours including an hour dinner stop).

I have visited Santiago de Compostela and Vigo several times, the former for AnTroido (Carnival) and Santiago (7/25), both during Año Xacobeo 1999. See some of my fotos taken during that visit at http://communities.msn.com/Gettoknowalittlefromspain Just click on 'Photo Album.' Although I say Santander is my favorite city on the north coast, Vigo (Pontevedra) gets my vote for best city on Spain's Atlantic coast. In Vigo, I have stayed at Bahia Vigo on a 'weekend special' and at Hotel America. I recommend the latter (3-star) property.

Motorcoach travel allows you a lot of flexibility, is inexpensive & comfortable. And Santander is a major Motorcoach 'hub' with routes across the coast and inland. Alsa is probably the major carrier across the north http://www.Alsa.es
My Santander-Barcelona was on an Alsa MotorCoach operating under another company's 'banner.'

My comments are specifics, not generalities. I have visited all these places and I have used public transportation (as you propose to do). It's nice to have the independence a rental car might give you; but it can get very expensive when you consider gas & tolls. For example, for one person, I think it's cheaper to take the regional TRD Vigo-Santiago than to drive. But Vigo is one of the places where having a rental car for a day or two would be advantageous. You could drive down the ria to Baiona, Colombus' landfall on his return (with the Niña) from his voyage of Discovery (there's another Parador there - the Castle of the Conde de Gondomar). Then continue along the coast road to La Guardia and visit Monte Santa Tecla

[ 12-22-2001: Message edited by: Eddie ]

CathyM, with 100$ a day for hotels you will go to good ones... That's a lot of money! Of course you won't go to the Ritz but you can find really good ones, including breakfast, lunch-dinner, and dinner.

Fernando

CathyM, why don't you look into renting a car. You will end up saving money, besides having the freedom to make up your own schedule at your own pace. Think about it. Anyway, I am sure you will have a wonderful time in Northern Spain.

If you decide to go to Leon, you should stay in the Parador. I thought it was one of the nicer ones. I've never stayed at the one in Santiago but previous posters didn't rave about it like the travel books do. IMHO I'd skip Pamplona. It didn't do anything for me (maybe I wasn't there long enough).
September is a great time to see the North and I wouldn't miss the Picos de Europa. I've been there more times than I can count and it's tops on my list. There are lots of casa rurales on the northern coast, if you have a car it's a nice base to explore the mountains and surrounding areas.

Cathy: First of all, I congratulate you on your decision to visit the north. It is one that will reward you greatly. One itinerary we did a few years ago required the services of a rental car. I suggest you rent a car, as train service along the Biscayan coast can be confusing, and riding a bus through Asturias can be nauseating...

We started [of course] in Madrid, and drove northwest to Galicia, stopping in Salamanca for one night, then on to Pontevedra. I suggest that you stay in Santiago de Compostela, and spend at least 2-3 days just exploring the old part of the city. La Coruña is nice, but getting there was more fun than actually being there. There are a number of small manor houses known as "Pazos" in Galicia. You can check them out at www.pazosdegalicia.com . You may find the lodging luxurious, and in September, inexpensive by comparison.

We then drove east through Asturias. Although the whole of Northern Spain is beautiful, Asturias is by far the most pristine, stress-relieving, breathtakingly spectacular region in Spain. A caution to the faint of heart behind the wheel: The main west-east highway is two-way traffic, with multiple mountain switchbacks. It would be a nice "Lexus commercial" drive if it weren't also used by commercial delivery trucks...passing a truck on a switchback is a harrowing [and necessary] experience.

We stayed in Avilés, but only because we have friends there. I recommend a smaller stopover like Llanes, Luanco or maybe Cangas de Onís. If you stay at Cangas, you can spend the next day exploring Covadonga, which is absolutely glorious.

Traveling east to Santander, you may be able to find a good casa rural in Santillana, as you had hinted. Santander is a lot like Asturias, but a little less mountainous.

Ten years ago I would have never recommended Bilbao as a tourist destination, but that has all changed. They've drastically improved the city, and it is every bit as cosmopolitan as any other great European city. The metro lines have improved mobility, there are several high-class reasonably priced lodgings, and then the attractions. See the Guggenheim, not necessarily for the artwork inside as much as the building itself. The Begoña cathedral is terrific, and the old quarter of Bilbao is charming, especially in fall and on towards Christmas. From Bilbao, you have the following great side trips at your fingertips: Bermeo [fishing village with polychromatic housefronts along the waterfront]; Gernika [spiritual heart of Euskadi, historic governmental center]; San Sebastián [everyone's hands-down choice for most beautiful beach]; San Juan de Gastelugatxe [monastery on an island in the bay of Biscay]; Butrón [local castle]; and many more.

Drive on to Pamplona, which regardless of the season, rewards the visitor with history, Hemingway notwithstanding. There is the plaza de toros [work of art], the old city walls and Ciudadela park, the cathedral and one of the most intriguing and historical old quarters in Spain. Near Pamplona you can get to Olite, a city-castle-palace which is now a parador [stay the night!!!] or go up the pilgrim's road to Roncesvalles. While you're there, stay the night at our family's casa rural Casa Kurutzezahar. Check it out at http://www.toprural.com/ficha/index.cfm/idp/31/ids/740.htm . MM: This isn't a shameless plug, it just happens to be a great place to spend the night!!! Make your reservation early if you plan to stay there though, especially for that time of year. They may only be available certain months, and summer is always "completo".

Making your way back to Madrid is easy and you have a few great choices of places to visit on your way down. I'll let others add their 2 pesetas worth on that...

Enjoy your trip, and if you do happen to stay in Valcarlos, post your opinion of the Casa Rural on this site and the toprural.com site, too! I'll probably be staying there in April...

Great site, CaliBasco - thanks! Just sent it to a friend who also wants to wander the back roads of Northern Spain. Will be interesting to get feedback from people who have actually booked thru and stayed in some of the accomodations. I'm one of those travelers that tries not to have a set schedule - I like being able to stop on a whim and a dramatic landscape, etc. And this most often happens on the back roads ...

I definitely recommend Barcelona and San Sebastian. Barcelona is such a vibrant European city with lots to do. The Bus Turistico is a great way to see many of the city's sites. I agree that Parc Guell is worth visiting. It is a great place to stroll and interact with locals. San Sebastian's beauty left me speechless. ALthough I did not make it to either city, Bilbao and Santiago have been recommended to me countless times. Have a wonderful trip!

I recommend a visit to the Aragonese pueblo Jaca, in the province of Huesca. It would be easy to do if you have a car and are traveling east to west (or vice versa) along the Pyrenees. It's a good spot to stay for a few nights and explore the valleys and pueblos from there. I'd give it at least 3 days. Jaca itself is fascinating - lots of history, yet small and quaint. The food is excellent - meals, tapas, and especially the pastry shops. There are several good hostals/pensiones/hotels in town, all within your budget, and casas rurales outside of town. There is an excellent tourist office from which you can arrange all types of excursions, dealing with history, hiking, climbing, environmental-type stuff, you name it. There are also a lot of cultural events going on regularly in the town, but with a homey, small-town feel. It's along the Camino de Santiago. Not many Americans go there - it's off the usual tourist track - but it's very popular with Spaniards from the northern provinces. I was shocked how crowded it was this summer, and I've gone there for many years. September would be a particularly nice time to visit, since the crowds will be gone, and you get that easy, pueblo feel again. I love going there at off times. I've even spent a lot of time over the years wondering if it's the perfect place for me to live. There's an excellent website at http://www.jaca.com/ but it is only in Spanish.

Happy planning!

[ 12-21-2001: Message edited by: Diana ]

I just wanted to thank everyone for their great responses.

I'm hoping to pull together a final itinerary in April (after my March trip to Italy for a week!). Then I'll have alot of specific questions and can do the applicable searches on this site.

Although it's nice to have the flexibility with a car, I don't think I'll be renting a car, at least if I go alone. I can only drive an automatic transmission and that would be quite costly by myself. I also hate to drive and really think it helps to have one driver and one navigator when in Europe!

Another thought I had is ending (or beginning) the trip in Lisbon versus Madrid. I think it may be a little closer to Santiago and I wouldn't be backtracking. Any thoughts on this?

Hola!
I was in Galicia yesterday, lovely region and I am so glad I came. It is not as cold as Castilla. The people are lovely.

I can recommend, if you are planning a trip to Santiago de Compostela, the Hotel Peregrino. Excellent hotel close to the University and the Renfe Station. However, if you truly want a wonderful and memorable stay, go to the Parador de Los Reyes Catolicos, right next to the Catedral. You can stay there with three Bancotel coupons, contact Bancotel http://www.bancotel.es
directly since it does not appear in their webpage. The place is a treat the rooms are spacious and the bathrooms have brass sinks, truly lovely.

CaliBasco,
Unfortunately Casa Manolo was closed for repairs off the Rua Nova. So I did not get a chance to eat there. But did go to the Parador for a memorable and pricey Christmas dinner!
Booklady

Booklady! I'm bummed you missed out on Casa Manolo...did you try both locations?

All I can say is they'd better be done "renovating" by the time I get there in May...or gallego heads will roll!!!

CathyM writes:

I have done that. There's an International Train from Vigo - Porto daily around 13:00. It's a slow, uncomfortable ride and it can get very crowded. Buy a First Class ticket to be guaranteed a seat all the way. At Porto, if you hurry, you can catch a 17:00 Alfa to Lisbon, arriving Lisbon (Oriente) around 21:00. When I did that last, the only (turista) seat that was available was in a smoking car. bummer!
You'll have an advantage: the last time I did that I couldn't find any ATM's in the Porto train station so I had to 'tough it out' with nothing to eat or drink all the way to Lisbon. Since both Portugal & Spain will be on the Euro, you won't have that problem. There are sandwiches & drinks vendors on the Alfa.

I definitely don't suggest driving unless you have a companion who likes to drive a manual transmission. Although driving gives you a lot of flexibility--my husband is the driver, I'm the map reader--it really does require two people.

We found tons of great lodging in the north but we didn't go any further west than Cantabria this trip. Check out my thread entitled Wonderful Lodging! for more info on inexpensive ($50 per night and less) accommodations. All were very nice.

Visit Hondarribia in the Basque country. Try Comillas, too. It was beautiful in September. Maybe you'll be there for the Road Rally and meet a young Spanish man...

I'm encouraging my son (who will graduate from Berkeley in May) to see either Spain or Italy (excuse me, folks, but my husband's family comes from Italia). I'm hoping he'll find a travel companion. I honestly think it's more fun that way although, truthfully, I've never traveled alone.

E-mail me about your trip to Italy, also a favorite. We may be "tossing a coin" to determine where we're headed next but Spain is like an "old shoe"--so comfortable and, sometimes, a bit "ragged around the edges"--two positive characteristics.

Eddie-
It's been a while but I'm in the thick of planning this trip now and have a specific question from your previous post .

I'm considering using Santander as a base for exploring the area and wanted to know about the tours you took along the coast and the Picos de Europa. How often and who runs these tours? Are they spanish speaking only (any in english)?

Thanks to everyone for all of your help

Hi again! Cathy, I posted way back on November 11, 2001 after our incredible three week trip to Spain. If you want to do a search, look at Hotels/Lodging. Topic name is: Wonderful Lodging! It may be helpful.