we just returned from our incredible and too horribly short trip to madrid (and toledo and segovia). we spent at least 4 hours in the cathedral in toledo alone. i have never seen such an overabundance of spectacular decoration. pay particular attention to the choir stall carvings-- scenes of a monkey feeding an owl with a spoon, beasts in scandalous positions... one could (and i'm sure have) written doctoral theses on this marvelous spot. make sure you have enough time!! it also snowed while we were there for the first time in 10 years! we were hopelessly lost on the medieval streets, and an old guy with an even older little dog asked us if we were lost and walked us out to the road to madrid. gotta say, everyone is so friendly and i am ready to move tomorrow.