Terrific food, very attractive yet casual setting, friendly service. I liked it so much, I ate there twice. Large room, divided into a few sections, with stone walls, tile floors, pottery, antiques, etc. (Unfortunately, there was piped-in Muzak, but this seemed to be the case in most better restaurants--I don't get it.) Seems popular with locals and families. One negative: The waitstaff, although very pleasant, is easily overwhelmed. On both visits service fell apart when the restaurant reached about half of capacity.

Dynamite complimentary olives. No menu del dia; all a la carte. Some items change daily. Among those I enjoyed were a fantastic mushroom "pudding" (two thick slices of a smooth, pate-like concoction) with lobster sauce, chuleton de Avila, crema de langosta (not very creamy in the dairy sense but packed quite a lobster punch), and the best cochinillo asado I've ever had. For dessert, the menu lists the usual suspects, but a dessert cart offers daily specials. Noteworthy was the orange tart, which had a mousse-like consistency and two layers of pignoli. The house red, a slightly metallic young wine, was perfectly adequate, especially for the price, but the wine list has many good options. Since I was confined to half-bottles, I had less to choose from but enjoyed the '97 Arzuaga Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Appetizers 800-1,200 ptas., entrees 1,200-2,500, dessert 600. Bracamonte 6; 920-25-12-80.