Several weeks ago a friend of mine who owns a couple of bars on c/Victoria took me to Bar Cruz on Plaza Cascorro. It is a tapas bar in the old tradition, away from the tourists. They still have things like zamburinas, beberechos, navajas and mollejas along with the more common stuff like gambas and pulpo and albondigas. (We went specifically for the caracoles) Not a place with "charm" or to linger but with character. Plenty of outside tables too!