We are heading for Spain in April and need the help of a bullfight fan.

Has anyone ordered bullfight tickets online for fights at the Plaza de Toros in Madrid? I found a website www.ticketstoros.com that sells tickets through a company called TEYCI. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.

If we buy tickets at the bullring on the day of the event, what are the chances that we would get good seats?

One last question - seeing that cost is somewhat important, in your opinion, what is peferable - 1) In the sun closer to the ring, or 2) In the shade, further back? We would doing this in April if that makes a difference.

Your input would be appreciated. Thanks

[ 01-18-2002: Message edited by: MadridMan ]

I went to a bullfight in Barcelona and just bought a ticket at the ring. Sat in the sun quite close to the arena and it was a good position i thought. I was there in July but it was still nice in the sun as the bullfight takes place in the late afternoon/early evening so it is not too hot.
Just looking at my ticket now, it cost me 4000 ptas and it started at 1730 and finished at 1900.
I think they only take place on a Sunday unless there is some sort of fiesta on.
It is very exciting and at times you will find your heart in your throat. Before I went i didn't agree with bullfights but left with a better understanding and it seemed to change my mind about them (except i did not like the way they use the blindfolded horses.
You could see the fear in their nostrils.
Even after all they do to the bull it is still a good fight and is very dangerous for those who take part, and the bull dies a glorious death. It felt like this was what these bulls were meant to do. These bulls are so strong and courageous that you in no way seem to see them suffer. They just fight and fight until they no longer can go on, and some just refuse to fall. It is very hard to explain but i feel you cannot have an opinion on the matter unless you have attended a bullfight.
There are worse things happening in the world to humans so why should we stop this great tradition of spain?
Ole ole ole!

We bought our tickets at las Ventas (Madrid) on the day of the bullfight--Easter Sunday last year. If your Spanish is decent and you don't mind pushing your way to the window, go to the ticket window at the bullring. We paid 1800 pesetas and had 10th or 11th row seats in the sun. It was great weather, we managed to get some color, but it wasn't too bad. (You'll be there at the same time of year as we were.) There are little huts along the outside edge of the bullright (near the street) where you can also buy tickets, and it's much calmer, however they will charge you more. I didn't quite catch why, does anyone know why/how this happens? I can't help you with on-line purchase questions, but we were able to get the tickets that day with no problem.

Buena suerte!!

GG

You may want to consider the new Plaza de Toros at Vista Alegre (Carabanchal) instead of las Ventas. Yes, there's always been a Plaza at Vista Alegre, but a new domed plaza de toros was inaugurated there in Spring, 2000.
True, unless it's a holiday or something like that, you'll probably see Novilleros toreando; but by the time they get to Vista Alegre, most of them are ready for their Alternativa. And they are hungry young bullfighters.
I have seen some really great bullfights at Vista Alegre.
As I recall, you can but your tickets right there at the ticket windows. Sombra are the most expensive then sol y sombra and finally sol.

[ 01-20-2002: Message edited by: Eddie ]

Thanks to all for your input. I will wait till I get there to get tickets. In the sun in April makes sense. I will bring my sunglasses and hat and be prepared to "ole" up a storm! Does the crowd really shout "ole"?

Granadagirl - Do you recall it the ticket booths are open early in the afternoon. We are thinking about going early, getting tickets, going to the bullfight museum and then coming back later for the fight?

Eddie - Please enlighten me about the Plaza de Toros Vista Alegre. It sounds interesting and a great alternative. I couldn't find much out on the internet. Where is it? Is it within public transportation distance? Are the bullfights there on Sunday also? Where it is domed, do they fight even in bad weather and the the sun /shade thing is a non-issue?

Ralphy - I agree with your sentiment about bullfighting. They have been doing it for thousands of years and it is part of the Spanish culture. I don't think is the place of 21st century people to pass judgement. Also, I read somewhere that the bull meat is given to orphanges. So how different is that than having a steak?

Again, thanks to all.

Spainbound writes:
It's in Carabanchal (SW Madrid neighborhood) and there's a Metro station right there. Yes, the bullfights are usually on Sunday (except when there's a fiesta or something going on). I can't really address your last few questions because I haven't been inside since the new Ruedo was built. I saw it from the outside passing by on the way to Leganés; and I saw the first bullfight from there on TVE in April, 2000. It was in the evening (Yes, they have lights so they can have 'night' bullfights). Featured Torero was Curro Romero (age 70-something).
BTW
Leganés also has a 'domed' Plaza de Toros. I guesss that's the 'thing' nowadays.

To answer one of your earlier questions: Yes! The crowd shouts Olé when the torero (novillero) does good. They usually whistle and jeer at the Picador (whistling is a sign for bad). They wave white handkerchiefs to ask for an award (which can be a vuelta al ruedo, an ear, two ears or a tail, in that sequence, or two ears and a tail, for example). If you see the latter, you've seen a good bullfight.


Not! Maybe that happens in the Pueblos when they have their annual fiesta but it's not the case in Madrid. You can go to the meat market at Las Ventas Monday mornings and buy the meat from Sunday's bullfights. I am not sure if it's still possible; but you used to be able to select which bull you wanted your steaks cut from. It's well known that one who eats the flesh of the bravest of bulls inherits some of that bravery and virility.
When we were living in Madrid, my wife used to be at the Ventas meat market early Monday mornings.

[ 01-26-2002: Message edited by: Eddie ]

Hi again-

I'm glad I can be a bit of a help. I don't know, however, when the ticket booths are open. We kind of stumbled upon the whole thing within probably about 1 hour before it started and were able to get decent tickets. We were mostly in the sun, and did get a decent amount of color (for 2 really white girls who hadn't seen the sun since the previous September!!), so remember a little sunscreen and your sunglasses. It was Easter Sunday, so I'm not sure if that played a roll in how the crowd/ticket sales were either...

Oh, and we did hear shouts of 'toro!' and 'ole!', so that was really cool too!! I especially liked the band playing and the old man who came out in between bulls with the little sign that told the crowd what the next bull was...

Hasta luego,
GranadaGirl

I find it interesting that there are now domed Plaza de toros and also have bullfights at night. In hemingway's book "Death in the Afternoon" he gives explanations about bullfighting. He explains how important the sun is to bullfights. To quote his last paragraph in the first chapter..."The sun is very important. The theory, practice and spectacle of bullfighting have all been built on the assumption of the presence of the sun and when it does not shine over a third of the bullfight is missing. The Spanish say, 'El sol es el mejor torero.' The sun is the best bullfighter, and without the sun the best bullfighter is not there. He is like a man without a shadow."

just thought it was interesting to note, obviously times have changed since the 1920's. Back then the picador horses were uncovered and were nearly always killed by the bulls. Horrific sights apparently.
maybe hemingway can direct you with his writings.....

Thanks again to all. I can hardly wait.
Eddie - regarding Curro Romero, I believe James Michener mentions him in his book "Iberia". It is my understanding that in Michener's travels in Spain in the 40's and 50's Curro Romero was suppose to be the best torero in all of Spain. The other toreros all held him in high regard for his bravery, his style, and his finesse with the bulls. Even his being seventy-something, it seems that you were witnessing a legend and were party to a rare treat.

Spainbound writes: Sorry; but I'll have to disagree with James Michener: Manolete held that distinction until his death in Linares (in '48?) - then there was Luis Miguel (Dominguin), 'Papa' Hemingway's model for his 'Death in the Afternoon' story (and, Ava Gardner's real life lover, it has been said), Gregorio Sanchez, Paco Camino and into the 60's with Diego Puerta & Manuel Benitez (AKA: el Cordobés).
Curro Romero was a careful, very methodical Torero. Many young wannabee Toreros learned the 'art' from Romero; but he was never as 'flashy' in the Ruedo as those others - it's probably why he as survived so many years.
BTW
That 'rare treat,' the inauguration of the new Vista Alegre Plaza de Toros: I saw it on TVE from my room in the Hotel Conde Duque in Bilbao around Apr 15, 2000. I wasn't at the bullfight.

[ 01-28-2002: Message edited by: Eddie ]