At the end of November I have 5 days after my much needed Spanish language course booster shot in which I can travel. I've traveled through Spain except to the far
northern cities(northwest and central, I've been to Barcelona). I'm leaning towards staying in Santiago de Compostela and taking a side trip or two. I know the travel time is long, so I really only plan on seeing 1 city well. What do you think? Should I go to Bilbao or some other place instead?

I love Santiago de Compostela, Vigo and that whole Xunta de Galizia; and I also enjoy the Basque country (Bilbao) but your motivation may steer you more toward the Principality of Asturias or Cantabria.

In Galicia you may encounter people speaking Galego (more akin to Portuguese) and in Vizcaya (Bilbao) a lot of the people speak Euskera. If you really want to give your Castellano a workout, I recommend Santander. They speak very rapidly in Cantabria. Even my wife (Madrileña) had trouble understanding, at times. :p

Thanks for that tip, Eddie. I actually should go to the slowest speaking area there is. My spanish is pretty darn slow.

In Bilbao you have the Guggenheim (I am not into 'modern art' but I love Frank Gehry's titanium masterpiece). Public transportation to San Sebastian (bus) and Santander (FEVE or Bus) is also available for day-tripping.

Santiago de Compostela has el Obradoiro, the magnificent Cathedral/Basilica that is said to be Apostle Jago's (Jacques / James) final resting place. It also has the prestigious University. Day-trips from Santiago should include Vigo and Baiona (Pontevedra) and if you have personal transportation, LaGuardia. I like that area better than a'Corunha.
BTW
Bilbao or Santander from Madrid by bus are about 6-hours (Continental-Auto from Avda. de America bus terminal). For Galicia, I've always taken the Talgo (8-hours) from Madrid's Chamartin station. There's one at about 13:15.
In Vigo, I stay at the Hotel America. Its 3-star rating is just because it doesn't have a full service restaurant, just a breakfast area on an upper floor. Otherwise, I would give it 4-stars.

[ 10-20-2001: Message edited by: Eddie ]

Well, you're in luck, as I've lived in all three areas extensively. Let me give you the pros and cons (okay...there aren't any cons to either of the areas):

For November:
Galicia: I lived in Santiago in November and although it gets a little chilly, the crowds are very thin at the wide variety of attractions. The big positive about Compostela is that the entire old quarter of town is a living museum. Just walking the streets is reward enough for having taken the time to visit. While it is true that Gallegos speak, well, gallego, knowing this going in will help your ears adjust to the differences, and you'll be fine.

Asturias: I've lived in Asturias in April, and the weather is similar, as it's damp and chilly. Asturias is, with all due respect to my beloved Basque Country, the most beautiful part of Spain (the Basque Country is a close #2). While there are architectural attractions, the main draw in Asturias is the natural wonders. Asturians speak what is known as "bable", which is easily understood with a few adjustments to what you know as castellano.

Bilbao (Euskadi): Heading into the Christmas season in Bilbao is one of the best times of year, and one of the best place in Spain to be. There is plenty to see and do in Bilbao, and the old quarter of town is not to be missed in anticipation of Christmas. Bilbao has the best of both: History and architecture coupled with surrounding natural beauty. With five days, you can spend a day or so in Bilbao, then explore the surrounding areas (San Sebastian is only a short bus ride away, Gernika is ultra-close, and the surrounding areas are wonderful). Bilbao does have the worst pollution problem of your three options, but in the last 10 years, strides that I would have thought impossible in 1988 (my first trip to Bilbao) have been made, and Bilbao has gradually been restored as a tourist destination. This was incredibly evident in 1999, when I last visited. You should be fine with the fact that Basques speak Euskera. All the Basques you'll meet in the city are bilingual, and speak a castellano that is easy on the ears of even the most uninitiated neophyte.

My choice? I'd always recommend the Basque Country, but I think that you'll be most satisfied at this time of year with a trip to Santiago (bring your raincoat...but it's incredible!). A good site to learn more about Galicia is at www.crtvg.es. It has an English version, in addition to a Gallego, Castellano and Basque version. It might be fun to see what you can decipher of gallego before you go. (There's even a gallego dictionary online!)

CaliBasco,
You are a veritable font of information. I have a week to spend there, of course I will visit Compostelo, but was wondering if it would be worth it to travel South to Vigo or go North to Gijon & come down via Oviedo to Madrid?
What would you advice a harried Mom?
Mil Gracias!

Thank you so much for the super information!!! You know, I think I probably will go to Santiago.

If you're in a rental car, you can swing both. However, note that the north coast drive from Galicia to Asturias is "alpine" and is subject to December's weather.

Santiago is so close to Coruña and Vigo that you can make side day trips to both. Tuy is also very nice. Check the webcams on the previous website I suggested. That should help you make up your mind.

There is one major bonus to being in Santiago around Christmas: Street vendors with roasted "castaños" (chestnuts), bought and 'served' in a rolled up newspaper cone. Eating those while strolling down the rúa on the way to the Alameda park is one of my fondest memories of Santiago. DO NOT miss eating at Casa Manolo in the old part of town. All the pilgrims (and anyone who knows anything about Santiago) eat there: Large portions, small price, and EXCELLENT friendly atmosphere. There are two now, but the original is in the old part of town.

If you wouldn't mind doing a bit of "homework" for me, there is a restaurant that, if the owner is the Buxán that I know, has to have excellent food. The Mr. Buxán I knew was the chef at the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos (5-star parador in the main plaza next to the cathedral). Would you check out the restaurant and tell me about the food? It's called Asador Buxán, and is at c/Avio 9. The phone number is (981) 58-47-81.

Enjoy Compostela!!!

Booklady: I second Calibasco's ideas about driving northern Asturias in the wintertime.
You might run into some snow or unpleasant weather.
I love the drive from Baiona to LaGuardia. It makes me think I am in early California along the 'Camino Réal.' You might want to consider including northern Portugal in your itinerary (Braga & Guimaraes). It's a nice area.

We drove (if I remember correctly) from Pontevedra to Padron, then to Compostela, taking total back roads (ONE-LANE back roads). That was one of the most scenic, beautiful, GREEN drives I've ever had. We went through Villagarcía de Arousa and others and it was simply wonderful.

I recommend a little-known side trip to the Pazo de Oca. Pazos are manor houses that are scattered throughout Galiza and have kind of a "Celtic Versailles" feel to them [only on a much smaller scale]. Oca happens to have a stone boat that floats in the back reflecting pool, along with some amazing vineyards and grounds. Try this website for a teaser: http://www.turismo-rural.com/pazos/rutas/ourense.html