As we ended our Algeciras/La Linea adventures, it was time again to board the auto-bus for Cadiz. Along the highways , my daughter and I noticed a different windmills, color white and at the very top of the mountains along the roads heading for Cadiz. The windmills looked like birds at a distnace. Again the view was just so spectacular, ocean view, mountain views, and herds of sheep. The bus stopped for passengers getting off as well as getting in. We knew right away, that we were in the center of town of Tarifa because of the presence of shops selling Lancôme products and other designer beauty/and make up products. As we drove, we saw a town with smaller aqueducts similar to that of Segovia. We saw road signs to San Roque. Somehow, the town of San Roque seemed to stay on my mind -- a desire to experience San Roque. I told my daughter the next time we explore Spain, it should be in the summer months to explore the towns along the coasts. The auto-bus to Cadiz was not direct, It made several stops in little towns which somehow I have seen in old movies. As we entered, the town of San Fernando, we knew that Cadiz would be just around the corner. Final stop was Cadiz. We arrived around noon. It was windy and rainy. Because, we did not have the map of the city, we took a cab to Hostal Fantoni which was recommended by one of MM's members. Later we found that the bus station is located near the sea port and it is a short 10-minutes walk to the hostal. For our cab ride, we paid 600 pesetas because of the one-way streets in Cadiz. Hostal Fontani was the way it was described on MM's board site. Beautiful courtyard. Our room was quite huge. It had a double bed and a twin bed. On the side of our room is a deck (I do not know what the Spaniards call) with plants and chairs to sit. I wiped one of the chairs and sat on it and admired the tiles and plants. Huge towels were provided and a foot towel too. The bathroom was full bath, beautifully tiled and very clean. The son of the owner gave us a map of the city. As soon as we settled in, we planned how we were going to spend the afternoon and evening. We survey the center of town and looked for a restaurant where the locals ate. We found this restaurant near a church and had menu del dia. Again, I ordered the picadillo soup. It was okay but was not as good as the one I had in LaLinea. Lunch for two was 1,500 pesetas with a glass of red wine. The first exploration was the exhibition of paintings of the last supper (forgot the name of artists). At the Center for the Arts, we encountered a bus load of American senior citizens. At the exhibits, were the artifacts recovered in Cadiz indicating that they were once part of the Roman Rule. Jokingly, I told my daughter, there was no need for me to visit Italy since the same artifacts were at hand. As we finished our Fine Arts escapade, we proceeded to walk along the oceanfront. It was cloudy that day and somehow the sun was flirting (did not know whether to shine or hide). The view of the seashore of Cadiz, reminded me of South beach, Miami, Florida. We took pictures of the oceanfront. As we were standing along the wall of the oceanfront, it never occurred to us that the waves would be gigantic. Splash! we got wet!. People who were driving along the oceanfront road, honked their cars with a friendly smile and remarks, "Welcome to Cadiz" of course in Spanish. I guess this time, people knew that we were tourists who did not know better not to stand near the wall. Because we were really wet, we had to go back to hostal to change clothes. There were several historical places that were closed because they are undergoing construction like the Castle of a queen (forgot the name) and the tower that has viewed of Cadiz. Because it was high tide, the board walk was covered by the sea water. . One thing that I noticed in most cities in Spain was that there were beggars near the church and at times as you enter the church. As we entered the Cathedral in Cadiz, a few beggars were at the steps and one or two near the entrance. We also visited the Archbishop Museum. After the religious sightseeing, we decided again to walk along the oceanfront. This time avoided standing near the wall. The oceanfront was a good walk. I guess the ocean front is from one end of the city to the other end. We did not find out how long was the oceanfront. Feeling tired, we sat not near the wall but away. Passers-by initiated the conversation with us and my daughter did all the talking since she speaks the language. I would answer with my little Spanish. We were told that during the summer months, Cadiz is very alive with local and foreign tourists and we should return and experience Cadiz during the summer. . We saw the University located along the oceanfront. Sat and watch the students go by. White is the color along the oceanfront. Along the ocean front, we noticed a building with full glass window, and my daughter told me that it is place for sick people to stay during the summer months to enjoy the beach. The parks we saw where clean and often cleaner and better landscaped than Madrid or Sevilla. In the streets, there were sacks of dirt for folks to use to cover their dog's feces. When evening, came, we walked back to the center of town and went window shopping. We decided to eat near the main Mercado (market place). We went to this tapas bar and ordered fried fish Cadiz style. We were given a serving equivalent for four that we told the server that we ordered for two and not for four. The waiter said that was serving for two. The trick in Spain when you get served an abundant of supply, EAT slowly. My daughter and I were joking each other that we should have plenty of stories to exchange so we can at least consumed 75% of our food. On the other side of table were two older couples who heard our conversation and told us we were doing the right thing by taking our time to eat. They asked us whether the fried fish tasted good, and we told them that the food was good and they too ordered Fried fish. We tried our best to finished our food but we just could not do it and when the server came by, my daughter right away told the server that the food was good but serving was just too much. I noticed in the cities we visited, the restaurant are proud of their food. When you do not completely consumed your food, they asked " what is wrong with the food". One thing that I have adapted from Spain was to have a shot of liquor de huerbas after each heavy meal. I do not know whether the feeling was just mental, that after a shot of liquor de huerbas, my stomach did not feel heavy. I ordered a shot of liquor de huerbas. The couples on the other table, asked how long have we lived in Spain. We felt so flattered with that remark. As my daughter said to me, "act and eat like the locals". After the tapas, we asked the couples where we could to hear good music. They told my daughter how to get to a small bar with good guitar music. The streets in Cadiz are a bit confusing because you could be at one street not knowing it could only be 10 minute walk to our hostal. It took us a while to reach this little bar with guitar music. When we entered the bar, most of the folks at the bar sort of stop what they were doing, and basically looked at our direction. For obvious reason, we were the only foreigners in that bar. The server gave us a good sit. We ordered beer (Spanish) and told the server that we will not order food because we ate a big serving of fried fish. He laughed and told us he understood. I am not a beer drinker but in Spain I loved their local beer -- not bitter or heavy. As a 50-year old mother, the flirtations I received from Spanish men were very uplifting and Daughter made remark that she too, likes the way Spanish men flirt. The bar was simple but good guitar music (I wished I had the name and address). It was so relaxing to hear guitar music while having a glass of beer. We did not realized that it was quite late. We left the bar at 1:00 am and walked back to the hostal under heavy rain. My daughter knew that I was not comfortable walking early morning hours -- 1:00 am. Again, my daughter told me not to worry and reminded me to walk like I have lived in Cadiz. What amazed me during our walk, we did not see "winos". We reached our hostal but when we were ready to take a shower, there was no hot water. My daughter went to living quarters of the owner and told me that we need "agua caliente" (hot water). Basically the entire family were awaked and were so apologetic that there was no hot water. The mother shouted and said that hot water would be ready in 5 minutes. I do recommend Hostal Fantoni for its beauty, cleanliness, friendliness and location. I believe we paid 6,500 peseta for double. They told us two months before summer season begins, they are basically booked and double occupancy during the summer is 10, 500 pesetas. Probably in five years, Cadiz would be a top tourist area. At this time, there is a renewal effort in Cadiz to restore some historical sites. I like Cadiz a lot because it is not as busy as Madrid but not as quiet as Cordoba. The size of Cadiz is not that big and just imagine living near the seacoast but have the feeling of Madrid. For folks planning to take a cruise to the Canary Island, the Cruise lines leaves from the seaport of Cadiz. I would definitely return to Cadiz in the summer months and spend more time to discover Cadiz.

mclarke-
I've been enjoying your posts about your trip with your daughter. I may be taking a class in Cadiz this summer. I'll let you all know! One day you should go to Cadiz for los Carnavales. Incredible!

Jen
When is the Carnival season? Let me know more about Cadiz.

mc-
Check out www.carnavaldecadiz.com
The Carnaval is at the end of Feb., just like Mardi Gras. Everyone is in costume and it is a great party. If you one day get to Cádiz in the summer (or really, May-Sept.) you should check out some of the nearby beaches. Conil, Los Caños de Mecca, Zahara de los Atunes, just to name a few.

mclarke--another great post on your spanish adventure. Cadiz was the most pleasant suprise on MY trip to Sapin last year. Its the oldest city in Europe, founded in 1100 B.C. by the Phonecians (although the legend is that Hercules himself founded the town.) A very quaint place for a city. You should have watched the sunset over the atlantic from the courtyard of the Parador, right on the ocean with a view of the whole Bahia de Cadiz. Next to that is a public garden. Next door, as the sun was going down, a large group was practicing their processional and float-carrying for next year's semana santa in Cadiz. You saw more of the night life than I did, but thanks for the tips, because I'm definately going back on my next trip.

Kurt

Thank you, thank you, thank you, Mclarke for sharing another wonderful passage from your trip. I have really been enjoying them.

Kurt,

Thanks again for the historica information. At the exhibits, there were digs found on how the folks lived before b.c. As I said lots of historical places were closed for renovations and repairs for the upcoming season of festivities in Cadiz. Since, I go away from the U.S. every two years, definitely, in 2003, Cadiz would be the place I would spent most of time. This time I would plan to be there in one of their festivities like semana santa. Save more more money since that would be high-season and that means accommodations would double. We only paid 6,500 pesetas and probably during high season, we may pay 12,000 pesetas. Thank you, Kurt for sharing more information on Cadiz.

Hasta luego - besos on both cheeks.

I enjoyed your reports on Cadiz and La Linea (de la concepción) and Algeciras. Just for general info: Dates for Carnaval (week before lent begins), Semana Santa (week before Easter) all depend on the liturgical calendar. Easter is the Sunday of the first full moon following the vernal equinox. So, it depends ...
Sevilla's Feria de abril is usually 2-weeks after Semana Santa.

[This message has been edited by Eddie (edited 02-03-2001).]

I, too, have been enjoying mclarke's posts on the trip. Did you keep a diary? There are so many good details in your report. I can imagine those waves splashing over the wall, the beauty of the 'terraza' (that's what they usually call those decks you sit out on), and all your other adventures. 2 kisses and a shot of licor de hierbas to ya!