I am going back to Spain for the first time in 2 1/2 years in 2 weeks (will be there for a month) and am so excited I can do nothing but plan my trip and dream about the promised land.

Today the thought entered my head that Guernica might be worth a visit while I am up in Pais Vasco (I had originally only planned to see San Sebastian).

Has anyone been to this town? We all know the terrible history behind it--is it worth a visit? And secondly, is there a train (or bus) that goes to Guernica from San Sebastian? Or do you have to go to Bilbao first?

And a side question, does anyone know if there are any interesting worthwhile World War II sites in France that aren't too far from San Sebastian? I suppose Bordeaux's about as far as I would go.

Thanks,

Jerry

I think that Gernika is a little boring. I went there one time and it was cool, but I was studying in Bilbao for a semester and had a lot of time. If you are just passing through on vacation, I wouldn´t reccomend it. If you are really into Basque history/culture, well, ok maybe you would want to see it. In Gernika they have a special Oak tree and a special government building. I forgot most of the story, but I think that it is the historic capital of the basque country. I think that there is a museum about the attack on Gernika there, I didn´t go myself though. Overall I can´t imagine that you would be able to spend more than a few hours there.

PacoJones: I've been to Gernika twice, and although I didn't find it as boring as Roe apparently did, it is true that I am WAY into Basque history.

The city is mostly rebuilt post-1937 (as a result of the Nazi-Franco brutality), but it is charming. Miraculously, the tree of Gernika was spared. There is a museum, and also the cámara de diputados is a beautiful (although newer) building, built in the neo-old style. Actually the entire old part of the city is almost 100% rebuilt. Gernika is, as a result, quite clean.

The city itself was the site where local nobles would meet to discuss laws and "fueros", and the tree was the location under whose branches where kings would swear allegiance to, and thereby gain obedience from the Vizcaínos. It is the spiritual center of the Basque region, and especially Vizcaya. The old tree is no longer anything but a stump. However, the new Gernikako arbola (tree of Guernica) was planted from an acorn off the old tree, and is protected behind a wrought-iron fence. [The old stump is under a stone gazebo.]

If in Bilbao, Gernika makes a nice day trip, into which you can incorporate the fishing villages of Bermeo and Bakio, as well as the monastery of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. These sites make a nice day-long itinerary. Get a car...of course...or better yet, get a Vizcaíno to lead your trip!

We really liked Gernika, and sat through the presentation on the bombardment during the Civil War, as well as the guided tour of the "house of representatives". It was informative, and the other information about the area in the museum is great. I especially liked the chamber and the stained glass windows in the government building. I recommend it, and hope you have the time (make the time) to visit.

Thanks for your lengthy reply CaliBasco--I really appreciate your comments and advice!!! Posts like these make this board the best travel one I've seen around!!! Thanks.

I think I will make a stop in Gernika. I am fascinated by Spanish history, particularly the Civil War, and I can't see myself passing this place up. To think that I hadn't heard about Gernika and the events that happened there until I was in college! What an incredible tragedy.

So CaliBasco (or anyone else), if you were short on time and had to choose between San Sebastian or Bilbao (or another worthwhile basque city) which would you choose? With Gernika being a day trip, I can really only spend a day at one of those other cities. I only have a month to see all of Spain, and even though that seems like plenty of time, I know it's gonna fly!

[censored] : That's a tough one. Both cities have their particular "encanto". I gotta be honest though. When I go to 'Bastian I usually spend about an hour in the old quarter, gawk at the beautiful beach and then wonder what to do for the rest of the day.

In Bilbao, you have a little more history and culture, and of course now they've enhanced things. The basilica of Begoña is a nice church, the Teatro de Arriaga nearly across the Nervión from the Guggen and next to the casco viejo, the casco viejo itself (which is actually quite nice), and a variety of other destinations make Bilbao the choice for me if you have one day. You might consider taking the local trains on either riverbank out to the ocean. You'll end up in Algorta on the east bank or in Portugalete on the west bank...if you absolutely have to see the ocean. Remember that there is no beach in Spain to compare with San Sebastián, but for me, Bilbao has more to "see".

You might also consider taking the funicular to the top at Artxanda. You get a nice view and feel for Bilbao and the surrounding areas. They've really worked hard to clean up Bilbao, which was a stinky mess about 10 years ago and before. Now it's being marketed as a tourist destination.

That's my 2 euro cents-worth. Have a great trip!!!

Ah yes, now the Gernika story is coming back to me CaliBasco. It´s been a while since I did all of the tourism stuff around here. Some other things in Vizcaya/Bilbao that might be of interest is the Puente Colgante in Portugalete/Las Arenas(Areeta) and Castillo Burton. The Puente is a hanging bridge built by Eiffel (the one that built the tower in paris) and you can go to the top and get a great view of things. The castle is a few miles outside of Berango. It´s probably also a good idea to see if there are any cities that are having their festivals while you are here, they are usually pretty fun. Also, they changed the "local trains" into part of the metro on the east side "margin derecha" and are working on converting the local trains on the other side of the river into the metro as we speak. If you are looking for a beach in the Bilbao area, I would recomend "El Salvaje" in Sopelana, it´s about a 20-30 min walk from the Larrabastera metro station. I still get a kick out of seeing people on the metro with their surfboards.

Roe: No doubt about Sopelana...living here in SoCal and seeing the surfers (and the surf) there was interesting. Check out Biarritz sometime and watch the surfers "rip" on the 0,5 meter swells...

Butrón is pretty small, and if I remember correctly somewhat remote...I remember walking to it, but we took the old white trains (ET/FV) out there...It was also closed when we got there. Thanks!

Re: the puente colgante from Portu to Areeta: I've been on that thing a dozen times but I don't remember being able to climb up on top and get a view. When did they start that?

Also, since you're in Bilbo: Do the dories still run bank to bank next to the puente colgante? I always thought it was interesting to watch the passenger boats cross in the middle of the Nervión with a few brave souls on them.