cosmo57, yes, the line to pick up tickets at Atocha should be a bit shorter and move quite a bit faster than the one TO BUY TICKETS. But the last time I was there (March 2006) there was much confusion about the lines. They had some makeshift, hand-written sign at the very front of the line (which no one could see until they reached it) so everyone was standing in the same line. That was several months ago so hopefully that's been changed/modified/updated/corrected.
As ned above mentions, try getting your tickets when you arrive at Barajas Airport. It could save you A LOT OF TIME as compared to going to Atocha to get them.
You could also have bought/got your tickets at any El Corte Inglés (shopping center) travel office. I don't think you can pick them up, however, now that you've already bought them online.
And I'm not 100% sure but I'm nearly certain there are electronic RENFE TICKET kiosks throughout Atocha to buy your ticket from a computer screen, much like at an ATM. I did this at the Barcelona Sants train station last March and when I was in Madrid Atocha (waiting and waiting in line for more than an hour - I finally gave up and called them to have the tickets delivered to me at home for a very small fee) I saw a few of these electronic kiosks but they were broken or being serviced. In Barcelona Sants there were dozens of them all in perfectly working order. I just entered my information, credit card number, and bingo! My tickets were printed and given right there and then.
The train trip from Madrid to Barcelona - at least for the first two hour - isn't much to look at. But the last half of the trip or so is quite nice, hillier, then you have the mediterranean to look out over for quite a ways too! You'll find the restrooms to be nice and rather clean too. The dining car is more of a "bar car" where there are no tables or chairs, just a standing counter bar along both sides of the car with good views through the large windows. There, they serve mainly sandwiches, breakfasts, and snacks and any drink you'd want. Oh, and by the way, when/if you order a sandwich, they'll serve it on a thick, plastic tray. Don't be confused. This tray is to be returned - NOT TO BE THROWN AWAY. I was a bit confused my first time as I couldn't imagine putting this small, thick tray in the trash (I don't think it would fit - probably by design - in the trash slot anyway). I thought, "If this is to throw away, I'm taking it home with me!" So return the tray to the bartender.
As it hasn't been mentioned here in this particular thread, seats are assigned. And as people are getting on and getting off at the different stops you'll have to stay in your assigned seat. Have your tickets handy along the way as the "conductor" will check them (probably only once).
The Madrid<->Barcelona train trip was my first ever (not counting a short one from Madrid to Toledo) and I have to tell you I was thrilled. It was relaxing, comfortable, seats were spacious was was the legroom. Free (low-quality) headphones to listen to a number of recorded musical stations as well as the movie on the monitors on each car.
Saludos, MadridMan
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