I have to give you the short version!
I visited Portugal for two weeks in 2004 and it was before my first visit Spain in 2005. I stay in Lisbon for over a week and Porto for three days. I think Porto is one of the most romantic places at night, far more romantic than Paris.
In Lisbon, I stayed at Residencial Florescente and in Porto Residencial Pao De Acucar. I can recommend them “but” that was from my trip in 2004. Thing might have changed. I do remember when planning to trip I did not have much to choose from, finding places to stay in the heart of Lisbon. There was not much to choose from.
I think Lisbon is really special city and is over looked as a European travel destination. Which is good because it does not feel touristy at all. I found the coffee in Portugal far better and more interesting than the coffee I had in Spain.
Can I say that without being banned from MadridMan?
The cafes in Portugal should not be missed, especially in the morning were you will be rubbing elbows with the locals who are going to work. One of cafés you must visit should be Braseleira, even if you do not want coffee.
Another thing about Portugal I loved is the pastry. They taste like heaven and it is very hard to walk past a pastry shop and not walk in to buy some. Be careful you can put on some extra weight. Everyone I have talked to about his or her visit to Portugal when it comes to pastries, as they are talking they have a big smile on their face.
Lisbon has smaller museums but it makes up with spectacular views because it is hilly and the wooden trolley cars are fun to ride. The best views are the ones from Castle Sao Jorge and Santa Justa Elevator. In the Belem area, there the Belem Tower and the Monument to the Discoveries. Make sure you ride to the top of the Monument to the Discoveries. There is a huge tile map of the world in front of the museum. If you go to the top you can see the entire map of the world. The Monastery Jeronimos, The Se and the Gulgenkian Museum with its garden in the back that should not be missed. The Aquirim Oceanario de Lisboa should not be missed but is a train ride away, like a ½ hour. The aquarium is a huge globe type fish tank that you walk around that is two stories tall. I was never interested in visiting aquariums, but after visiting the one in Lisbon and found it so fascinating, now in my travels I will visit aquariums.
If you are into tiles as an art form Museu Nacional do Azulejo is a must see and there is a church which is completely decorated in tiles. When I first walk in to church and saw all the blue tiles decorating the inner wall of the church it was a WOW moment.
A must day trip from Lisbon is Sintra. You have this Moorish fort overlooking Sintra very fun to walk around taking in the Birdseye views. Then Pena Palace, a fairy tale palace filled with the stuff of the royal family before they ran off to Brazil.
The Subway system is very modern and every subway station is decorated in an artistic style. But the wooden trolleys are fun to ride. The have modern trolleys and it seems it is for those who have to be somewhere and are more comfortable. The wooden ones are fun to ride. I rode it to Belem district and one I rode the around the Alfama district just to take the sites in.
Another thing about Portugal that I remember is that when I was there they have the most friendly and helpful tourist offices. I went to the plenty of times not only in Lisbon and Porto but other towns I visited and I was always shock how much they went out of their ways to make sure I had the information I needed.
One of the gems I found in Lisbon, the prefect reminder for my trip. It started to rain and I decided to duct into what I thought was another souvenir store selling ceramic dishes and tiles. Actually the dishes and tiles are made in China and you will see it all around Lisbon.
I walked around and saw all the color tiles and dishes and they were somewhat different from the other souvenir shops I saw in Lisbon. I talked to the owner behind the counter and he let me know out all the dishes and tiles are hand made. The tiles are painted by employees that do restoration work at the Lisbon’s tile museum, Museu Nacional do Azulejo.
My last day in Lisbon bought a set of three tiles at the store. Together they makes a colorful picture one of Lisbon’s wooden trolleys going up a street. It was hand painted and it cost me 55 Euros. The store packed the tiles up in bubble wrap I was able to get them safely. When I got home, found a store that built a custom frame to so I can hang them on the wall.
The store is located close to the Cathedral Se, a block or two from the waterfront on the street Rua dos Bacalhoeiros. The shop is Atelier. Hopefully it is still there and still makes hand made tiles and dishes. If you see it of visit it. Please let me know it is still there.
Have fun in Portugal. With all this talk about Lisbon I have to go back again.
Bill