All,

As I found lots of good information on this message board, I thought I'd share a brief report of my recent (okay, it took me two months to make the time to write this) trip to Spain in the hope that it might be useful to others looking for information. Hardcore Spain aficcionados probably won't find anything they don't know. Some of this could go into other boards, but, due to terminal laziness, I'm putting it all in one place. Adminstrators, please let me know if you'd like to post chunks lesewhere.

My girlfriend (Spanish) and myself (American)spent approximately two weeks in Spain in late December (returned Dec. 30th). We flew from Boston to Madrid on Iberia (through Chicago, d'oh!), and spent five days in Madrid. We then rented a car, driving up to Santander (her hometown) in one day, stopping only to see Segovia. We were based in Santander from the 18th until we left, but took daily trips to other parts of Cantabria and the Pais Vasco. I left out of Bilbao and my girlfriend, who had more vacation time accumulated, spent a few extra days with her family, leaving out of Madrid. It was my first trip to Spain since a family vacation when I was 11 years old (mid 80s).

The flights:
Despite numerous warnings, we flew Iberia as the price was good, and the departure times were convenient. We had to fly Boston to Chicago on American, Chicago to Madrid on Iberia. Of course, this made the trip longer, but there's no great way of going Boston--Madrid, from what we've found. Both flights were OK, although the Iberia Airbus was very cramped (I am 6'3") and the sound for the movie didn't work. Being excited about going to Spain there was, of course, no sleep. Service was decent and we bought a few presents for her family through the plane's duty free (good price on Loewe's ties and Tous jewelry). Overall, about average flight experiences. Luggage and ourselves arrived OK to Barajas. Overall, I would fly again with Iberia.

Madrid
Where to begin with this amazing city? My girlfriend had gone to college and still has many friends in Madrid, so we had accomodations set up. We stayed in the Plaza de Castilla, on the northern edge of the city. We found that buses and subway could both get us to the heart of Madrid in approx. 15 minutes, but preferred the bus for the view of the city. We only had five days in Madrid, and decided to focus on only a few things and not feel too rushed to take it all in. Of course, as she had studied there, she knew it well, but I felt like a kid in a candy store. We took in the Prado and Reina Sofia museums, but mostly spent our time walking all around the city, stopping at whatever caught our eye, eating and drinking what and when we felt like it. It was great to not feel that I "had" to see everything on one trip. We really enjoyed wandering through the streets of Madrid de los Hapsburgos, stopping to look at a church or have a tapa and a canya. The museums were, of course, great (both art buffs) and I was very excited to finally see Guernica. I did wish the Reina Sofia had a more extensive collection of non-Spanish modern art. The Prado was a world in and of itself and free the day we went.

One of the high points for me was visiting the Rastro on Sunday. The enormous crowd of people, the variety of items for sale, and even the singsong hawking of the wares was great. Nevertheless, my girlfriend's family says that the Rastro has gone downhill in the past decade or so, with a greater percentage of the stalls now selling stuff like cheap imported clothes, sunglasses and other new, everyday items like you would find in a lot of American fleamarkets. Some of the antique stores and stalls were really great, and I ended up buying some old keys and a couple of very old tiles handpainted tiles that had come off an old building, as well as a pair of new rabbit-lined leather gloves (it was cold in Madrid that week). As with these kinds of markets everywhere, haggling was crucial, and I spent almost 15 minutes with the guy selling the tiles getting to a reasonable (not great, but reasonable) price (approx 1/3 of original asking price). While I enjoy this kind of back and forth (and the gypsy selling the tiles was certainly a master of the art), others might be put off. At any rate, prices on new items (say, the gloves) were good (and not very negotiable), about 30% less than a department store, whereas antique and collectible items were generally offered at an astronomical "starting price", that, of course, ended up coming down considerably.

Other things I loved about Madrid: bar-hopping at the plaza Santa Ana (despite the construction) and having decent beer and great food at every stop, roaming the old city without a plan, the Christmas display at "Cortilandia" (Lord of the Rings themed, this year), buying used books from stalls close to El Prado (don't remember street), the great food (mmmm...cocido, mmm...ibericos), the general Christmas spirit and the friendliness of most people met (of course, many of them were my girlfriend's friends). About the only things I didn't like were the huge crowds downtown at seemingly all hours (but, hey, it was Christmas) and the indifferent attitude of a couple of store employees when I was trying to get a cellphone. Oh yeah, and in two weeks I did not have a bed that was long enough for me to fit comfortably. Minor complaints, to be sure.

Since there's been so much discussion about safety, I should note that we had zero problems, and were at the Rastro and in just about evey part of Madrid until fairly late at night.

As for prices, in general I found them to be better than Boston (for food and drink, much better), but not much cheaper than the cheaper parts of the US. Meals of tapas at different bars were an ascellent and economical way to go.

At any rate, that's the filght over and Madrid. As mentioned above, then we took off to Segovia and onward to Cantabria. I'll post that as part II, if people feel that it is interesting or useful.

Once again, thanks to MadridMan and all the board members for the wealth of information on here. This was my first trip as an adult to Spain, but it certainly will not be my last.

And Cooter, thank you for posting your experiences...as one of the so-called "hardcore Spain aficionados" I always love to hear about my favorite place through the eyes of another... Thanks again.

Gracias Cooter - Cortilandia certainly is a sight!

Hey Cooter!!! Thanks A LOT for posting your trip report! It's postings just like YOURS which make this message board what it is. Thanks so much.

Hey Cooter - some of us want to know about Santander and San Sebastian. I'm visiting there soon and would love any information.

Cooter, I too like hearing about Madrid, my favorite city on Earth, in the eyes of someone else. You put it very nicely.

I'd love to hear your part II on Segovia! I'll be going there as a day trip in June from Madrid. It was great reading tu historia de Madrid. It really brought me there already

Hi Cooter--

I would love to hear about your experiences in Segovia. I live a half hour away from the city and don´t get there nearly as much as I would like to (I am more frequently in Madrid). Tell my about Segovia through your eyes and perhaps it will animarme to go there!

Chica,

I noticed your segovia question. Last spring i studied there at la univseridad sek (llena de pijos!!) and lived on ezequiel gonzalez right across from la sepulverana bus station. It was one of the greatest expiriences of my life. I lived with a 60 something soltera that treated me like royalty( como ella siempre me decia, chris tu vives como un rey en espana)I loved her wonderful home cooking, company, and hearing every detail about her family.
Segovia is also such a beautiful town. I got to walk under the acueducto like three or four times a day. I made many friends even though I initially thought that spaniards were all as tough as leather. My favorite hangout was the indian rock bar-C/ hermanos barral next to la iglesia de san milan and Kanada. The people of segovia were so great to me.Once I made friends with someone, everytime I saw them we would chat. Eventually it took twice as long just to get back home! I know I'm rambling but so many things come to mind. I always got my haircut at la sevillana in the plaza mayor by miriam (wonderful lady)Segovia is always sooo alive. I made sure that on every sunday I would go out for a walk before meeting friends. The whole town seemed to be out for a stroll. Segovia also was very safe--abeit the tragedy near the SEK that happened just before I came. When going to restaurants, I always received the best service. The phrase la hospitalidad de segovia shouldnt be taken lightly. They are a beautiful people. I am going back this summer in late june to madrid to teach english until christmas time and segovia will be the first stop. I have a week to burn before the TEFL class starts and I may spend the whole time there until I reconnect with everyone. My only hope is that my spanish mom (nor I ) has a heart attack when I come back becuase I refused to tell her the exact date because I wanted to just drop in and surprise her. Its kind of sad but eversince I left, crying profusely, I think about spain everyday and I am very happy to be returning.


VIVA SEGOVIA!

Thanks,

Chris