That was a really nice touch, MM, leaving the sen~ora money in a book and then telling them about it AFTER you left. Tactful, helpful (even if they protested!) and so UN GRINGO!! You are becoming a true espanyol. Yesterday I made my kid some pollo with AJO and OLIVE OIL and he said, this tastes like SPAIN. So enjoy those alubias and empanadas... Can't wait to hear your hostales stories. Make them funny! saludos desde este lado del charco