I stayed at my usual humble joint outside the old town, which fits my needs perfectly but doesn't offer the most desirable location for most visitors, especially first-timers. Following is an opinionated rundown of the lodgings I toured, all in the old town (except for Rector, by a hair).

Please note that prices are based on literature provided by hotels but are, of course, subject to change. Promotional and group prices may be considerably lower.

Le Petit Hotel (H*) Big thumbs-up. 16 rooms, some with balcony facing Sancti Spiritus church (definitely worth a visit, BTW). Quiet street about a 10-minute walk from Plaza Mayor. Cheery, spotless, simple rooms with private bath; friendly, soft-spoken owner. Only drawback: no credit cards. Extremely busy in spring. Will be expanding and remodling in June 2001. Singles (not much smaller than doubles) 4,000; doubles 6,500. Ronda Sancti-Spiritus 39; 923-26-55-67.

Hotel Emperatriz I (H**) There are three in Salamanca; I acknowledge that they may vary in quality, but I visited only this one. Dark, depressing, down-at-the heels with indifferent reception staff. Parking available. Doubles 6,500-7,000. Compania 44; 923-21-92-00.

Hotel Don Juan (H**) Across the street from Pl. Mayor. Cheerier than Emperatriz; nonetheless, I wouldn't stay here. Indifferent staff. The usual slightly funky furniture and somewhat tacky decor. Parking available. Doubles 9,500. Quintana 6; tel 923-26-14-74; fax 923-26-24-75.

Hotel Las Torres (H***) 44 rooms, including 2 suites. WAY overpriced, I think. But if you want to stay on the plaza, this is it. Note, however, that few rooms actually face the plaza. Singles are tiny and cheerless. Suites have huge tub but no Jacuzzi. Modern, slightly tacky decor. Nothing special. Friendly, though rather unprofessional, staff. Prices for 2001: single 9,500-12,300, double 12,500-16,100, suite 17,400-22,400. Plaza Mayor 26; tel 923-21-21-00; fax 923-21-11-77.

Hotel San Polo (H***) 36 rooms. I could be very happy here. Some rooms have beautiful views of the cathedral. Pleasant, professional staff. Tastefully appointed modern rooms with wood floors and rugs. Prices for 2001: single 10,000-11,000, double for signle use 10,000-12,000, double 13,000-15,000; some weekend specials. Arroyo de Santo Domingo 1-3; tel and fax: 923-21-11-77.

Gran Hotel (H****) The name can only be read as a joke. How this place keeps its rating--and stays in business--is a mystery (kinda like Palacio Valderrabanos in Avila). In need of a total overhaul: worn-out furniture and carpeting, dark, depressing. Less-than-gracious staff. And still the most expensive place in town. 2000 prices: single 17,000, double 22,000. Poeta Iglesias 3; 923-21-35-00.

Hotel Monterrey (H****) Same management as Gran Hotel, and it shows. Ditto all the above, except prices are 1,000 ptas. lower. Azafranal 21; 923-21-44-00.

NH Palacio de Castellanos (H****) 62 rooms, including 4 junior suites. If money were no object, I'd settle in. Some rooms have gorgeous views, esp. of San Esteban monastery (my favorite facade in a city of beautiful facades). Built on site of 16th-century palace, whose cloister is conserved as the very attractive lobby. Tastfully appointed modern rooms with wooden floors and marble bath. Understated and elegant. Reception staff the height of professionalism. Tiny Trento restaurant has an ambitious, creative menu; sorry I never got around to eating there (appetizers 950-2,200, entrees 2,100-2,400). 2000 weekend rates: single 15,000, double 19,900, junior suite 29,000. San Pablo 58-64; tel 923-26-18-18; fax 923-26-18-19; e-mail nhpalacio@nh-hoteles.es. www.nh-hoteles.com

Hotel Residencia Rector (HR****) 14 rooms. Located on the very busy street (more-or-less across from Casa Lis) that marks the old town boundary, alhtough double-paned windows keep the noise out. If only the rooms had views, this place would be perfect in my book. It radiates exclusivity and elegance. Marble baths. No restaurant (hence the R). 2000 prices: single 11,500, double for single use 13,500, double 17,000, superior double 20,000, suite 22,000. Rector Esperabe 10; tel 923-21-84-82; fax 923-21-40-08; e-mail hotelrector@teleline.es. www.teleline.terra.es/personal/hrector


[This message has been edited by leuci (edited 12-11-2000).]

[This message has been edited by leuci (edited 12-11-2000).]

Very kind of you to do this and share with all!

I'll add one to your list (but cannot come near your professionalism in reporting: thank you thank you!!).
Parador de Salamanca (****). This parador lies on the other side of the river, facing the Cathedrals. It looks like a hospital, and is one of the most non-descript paradores of the chain. In fact, they are going to replace it, I understand. The rooms are smallish and have outdated furniture; some rooms have little enclosed "porches" that look out over the Cathedrals, and are ok. The place is rather massive and has no charm. The pool, however, is very lovely, and the view of the Cathedrals cannot be beat. You need a car or a taxi to get around. Only stay here if your city lodging doesn't work out, OR if you can get a great deal, like I did last summer, using 5 night card, or other parador specials. The food is OK but nothing special, either.

Leuci, I have enjoyed reading all of your posts - they are very informative and interesting and it is great information to have. Have you considered writing a book (you too rgf, maybe you two could collaborate) ? If you did I would definitely buy it!
Thanks for sharing.

[This message has been edited by ilovemadrid (edited 12-11-2000).]

Thanks, everybody! I got such good info when I bombarded you all with questions before leaving that I wanted to give something back. Plus, even when you find a responsible guidebook whose sensibility you share, it's inevitably out of date by the time it's printed. So this seemed like a good way to get the word out in a timely manner. Glad you find it of use!

I have to disagree with the comments on the Hotel Don Juan in Salamanca. We spent 2 nights there in October 2002. I had reserved a room for 2 and at the last minute changed to 3 people. The location was perfect - just off the Plaza Mayor. Check in was quick and easy - and the staff was extremely helpful with places to see and restaurants. It had a very small, familiar feel to it.

Our room was nothing spectacular however - carpet a little worn, blow dryer with tape around the hose to keep in on. I can't speak for all rooms though- it could be that our room with 3 beds was usually rented out to students and not kept up as well. It's not a luxery hotel but it is clean and well-located.

There was an adjoining cafe/bar ran by the same staff. Breakfast was excellent - cheap and very good in both selection and quality. We had a nightcap one night at the bar and the waiter was very friendly, trying out his english and giving us free raciones.

I'd definately stay there again.