Hi - I am going to Peru (Cusco & doing the 4-day hike to Machu Picchu) over Thanksgiving. I'm going by myself because my friends either don't have the time or don't want to go camping for that long. Madridman, I looked at your on-line photo album of the area. I noticed you went over New Years. Was it hot and rainy? Did you do the 4-day hike? Has anyone else done it? I'm going with one of those companies that takes a group of people down the trail. I need some adventure and I hope I meet nice people on the hike. It's my first TOTALLY solo vacation and I've never been to South America. If anyone has gone and has any comments or suggestions on the trail or Cusco, I'd love to hear them.

I am in Lima now, I have been to Machu Picchu. I´ll give you some tips as soon as I reach home next week. I have to leave real fast now.

Hello Chicagoan!
I'm VERY happy to know you're planning a trip to Perú - AND I'm also VERY VERY happy to know that Ignacio is there now! I found a number of cybercafés in Cusco itself, by the way.

We didn't do any organized hikes, nor did we walk the Inca Trail, but rather took the train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes and then took the bus up to Machu Picchu. The only "hiking" we did do was climb the Huayana Picchu - the almond shaped mountain up against Machu Picchu which is in all the photos. The trail was super narrow and there is really absolutely NO trail rails or ropes EXCEPT when you go vertical a few times - like climbing a vertical ladder!!! It took about an hour to get to the top and there we found a small group of 20-somethings admiring the INCREDIBLE VIEW of tiny Machu Picchu below. There, we broke out the water and a can of Spanish olives we had towed along while admiring the view. What a view. We got terribly sunburned making this climb as our sunscreen dripped off along with our sweat and then peeled for days. heehee. You'd better be in excellent shape to make this climb and be sure BOTH hands are free.

While I've never been on an organized hike/tour as you're taking, I'd imagine that you'd make friends FAST on one of these. I'm sure you'd have a great time.

If you have any other questions about Perú, please ask. Those 2 weeks spent there were the MOST enlightening and fascinating of my life. Machu Picchu was on my "Life's To-Do List" and am SO happy I did that one as well as saw much of the rest of the country. Ask away!

Saludos, MadridMan

Great! I'm excited to go. I wouldn't say I'm a super-athlete but I'm in decent shape and I walk everywhere (when you have no car in the city you have to) so I'll probably be OK. Especially since I am hiring a porter to carry my stuff. A lot of people take that option. I've been reading a lot about Peru and the Incas. Is Cusco fairly safe? I'm going to stay near the main square I think.

Some sort of early mid-life crisis led me to buy the plane ticket. I was dumped in June and I want to change my career. I have no idea what to do with my life. Travel is the best medicine, I believe! I'm leaving on my 33rd birthday. I go away every Thanksgiving around my birthday but not solo. I think it will be a great trip. I'll try to post my pictures on the web when I return.

Chicagoan, regarding Cusco's safety, I must admit that before arriving I was kind of paranoid just as many are before visiting Madrid after hearing all the WARNING postings on message boards about danger, pickpockets, and the like. I was ON GUARD the whole time while in Cusco because those stories. I have no doubt they have happened to someone but we didn't experience nor SEE any of this through our eyes. It might well be a different story, though, if you're alone and walking at night. Hopefully you'll meet up with some in your group and go out together. In daytime, I'd say we felt quite safe. My ladyfriend was LEADING the way through one of the smaller, quieter neighborhoods (as she OFTEN does - DESPITE my caution and hesitation) but we were fine. And besides, getting away from the tourist center can REALLY open your eyes - getting ONLY a glimpe - to how REAL Cusqueños live. By the way, there was a cut, little café/restaurant just across the square from the San Blas church where I had a delicious Alpaca steak - my ladyfriend didn't care for it though. We sat outside on their large terraza. On this we got to the church early before it opened and waited outside on the bench in the plaza. And before you know it, we were surrounded by about 8, energetic, obviously poor 8-10 year olds, all trying to sell us postcards or to shine our shoes or whatever. We didn't buy anything (this time) but we did chat with these kids (in Spanish of course) for about 15 minutes and I have to say that was one of the most valuable experience that you can have while on a trip such as this. We learned why they weren't in school (anymore) and what OTHER jobs they had in addition to shining shoes, etcetera. Most said they were "businessmen" because they had so many jobs and bartered so well. hehehee.. They were all cute and none of them attempted to pick out pockets or take advantage of us.

We stayed at the Hostal Loreto , located right NEXT to one of the churches and just off the Plaza de Armas - a little grocery store was on the next block over. The lower wall of this place has REAL inca-built stones from the walled street on which it is located. It's $40/night for a double or $25 for a single but we loved it for those 3 nights - upstairs - and a good breakfast was included. We met a WONDERFUL older Canadian couple while staying there and are still in contact today. Our travels where parallel from there to Arequipa to Puno/Lake Titikaka.

Really, I could talk about Perú for hours. Please ask more questions. hehehe..

Saludos, MadridMan

I LOVE steak and that hotel looks really good. I'm going to write them - thanks. More questions - did you try the guinea pig? Is there a good bar that you remember in a safe area near the main square with live local music? (But I'm going to be very safe and cautious!!) Do you have to dress conservatively in the churches? (I like to peek in, not go to the actual mass) Is there any quick day tour that you recommend? I will be in Cusco for 2-3 days first to adjust to the altitude before the hike.

just had my hepatitis shots - ow.

thanks, Sara

I too got the recommended Hepatitis shot (that DID hurt!) but my ladyfriend from Madrid thought my government-recommended-precautions were silly. Still, I was glad to have it.

I liked the alpaca steak - slightly tough but cut thin and tasty. I do not recall trying the guinea pig though but did drink lots of Mate de Coca (tea made of the coca leaves - the same leaves that are processed into creating that nasty substance, Cocaine). My first 36 hours in Cusco, with its HIGH HIGH elevation, I was sick, nauseous, and with headache but they say the mate de coca tea helps and I suppose it did.

We spent New Year's Eve at a popular place (recommended by Frommers , among others) totally by chance. It's called "La Retama" and faces the inside of Cusco's large Plaza de Armas. It's on the second floor so try to get a table next to the window like we did. As you say you've already seen my ClubPhoto photo albums of Perú HERE , then you've also seen the photo of the traditional dancers/dances taken from the restaurant La Retama as well as the nighttime view through the window of the Plaza de Armas. . La Retama restuarant had a website but it seems to be closed now. The restaurant had a bar as well and it all looked quite nice and colorful.

The Frommers review: A great and easy daytrip is visiting the Inca colony and precision-stacked stones of Sacsayhuaman . . This is located JUST outside the city but higher in elevation. Bus tours are easily found in Cusco.

We exclusively used The Lonely Planet\'s PERU guidebook and found it fantastic.

You can dress as you like in churches but without bare parts visible. I doubt they'd be happy to see belly-buttons or bare midrifts or short skirts or lots of cleavage.

Regarding Hostal Loreto , they were just right. I don't don't know if your single (unless you choose a double) room will be upstairs or not (doubt it) but those upstairs would be quieter and next to the breakfast solarium.

Any more questions? Saludos, MadridMan

No more questions/comments about Perú?

Ignacio, I'm looking forward to hearing about your trip!

Saludos, MadridMan

Hello, MM and others.

I am sorry to say I got pretty dissapointed with this trip. Mainly due to price discrimination towards tourists, outraging railway prices Cuzco-Machu Picchu (the only motorized way to reach it), extreme unsafety in Lima (my friends wouldn't let me walk more than 500 yards alone in most neighbourhoods), worse nightlife than expected (although not bad), ...

On the good side, few matters: Beautiful colonial Cuzco, impressing Machu Picchu, genuine helpful attitude of the Peruvian between themselves and towards tourists (unlike other countries where the expect some tip in exchage).

Now I am still dealing with my usual horrible jet-lags. I'll try to post something longer tomorrow.

Oh, I promise - there will be more!

Another cool thing that the company I am using (for the hike) offers is the opportunity to spend one night with a village family - they take you way, way out to a little village and you can spend the night with a family and eat dinner with them then go to a market with them the next morning before you are picked up. I decided not to do it this time because my spanish skills are not as high as I think they should be, plus I may not have time. (they do speak a mountain dialect but spanish is very helpful) I took an introductory spanish class last year (adult education!) and I may take another one this winter. But I thought that was cool. The family is paid for room and board. They give you lots of advice about how to act respectfully around the family, since it is kind of a unique situation. There is way, way more to do in South America than I previously thought.

When work calms down and the trip gets closer I'll post more questions. Thanks for all the help, Madridman!

Thanks Ignacio, I'll look forward to your post tomorrow. I may only be in Lima for the one afternoon at the end. I planned on flying to Cusco early in the morning after I arrive. I still need to contact Lan Peru. Is that what you used? That means about 5 or 6 hours in the Lima airport on my birthday but I just didn't want to go downtown for 3 hours sleep in a potentially shady city. I hope that Lima airport is reaaaally entertaining! I'm sure I will know every inch of it by the time I fly to Cusco.

Oh, and jet-lag? For once I won't have it! I've been to Europe 7 times, though. I know the feeling all too well.