What happens in most places is this: working couples take the car out to the hipermercados on the weekends and stock up on the big sale items. But the daily compra continues, even among working people. They stop in a store for this and that, for precocinados (prepared dishes). They send the kids. The hipermercados deliver, though, which makes it so easy to pick up the phone and order. When I was in the country in Galicia, I always walked into town and did the daily compra even tho the Corte Ingles would have hauled the stuff to my house free!

Speaking of markets: I could spend all day in the 3-story market building on the river in Casco Viejo in Bilbao. It's organized: Fish on one level; Meats on another (with Chorizos & Morcillas from every region and even fresh cochinillos; lamb & beef/veal and pork); and produce on the other level - Visiting there tells me these people really know how to live; and prosperity should be measured on another standard - theirs.

Great advice on the mercados! Every city has one. It is so much fun to wander (sometimes interestingly gross, too, like all the little dead pigs lined up...). They are usually open in the mornings. You watch people do their shopping. The cafes around the market are usually good, too. Salamanca has a great one rightin town. Madrid has several (there is one right near the apartamentos on Ayala 30). I love them in Galicia, where you see all the fresh seafood just hauled in from the ocean!

Alright. Alright. Some of you guys are such smarty pants. Admittedly, my post does sound more than a bit naive. I didn't mean for it to sound so silly.

Rgf - Yep, I will have a place to cook I'm sharing an apartment in Salamanca with other students. Bocadillos sound like a good idea.

MadridMan - thanks for the info on groceries with links. Alcampo was especially helpful as it provided price information.

Interesting thread on the advent of the superstore. Sounds like the big debates over stores like Walmart and Home Depot before the US simply succumbed. Nothing like cheap lumber and light bulbs to sooth the savage consumer beast. Ah well.

I have more faith in the Spanish way of life - I don't think they're going to go down that hipermarket road. The life of the barrio is too important for that, people like to shop and talk, stop at a bar for a cania or a coffee, they like to be outside "en la calle", not stuck in some windowless, soulless consumer dome. The sheer sensual pleasure of everyday life in Spain will defeat the MacDonaldisation of culture!

Visitors to Spain can help this. Sure, first time round you might feel a bit insecure about those bares and tavernas (goddamit, they don't even have a menu!), your lack of Spanish will make you frightened to enter that small, dark shop full of small, dark women, the noise and crush of the mercado will overwhelm you, as you fail to even recognise most of what's on offer. It's this fear of cultural difference, of social failure, that lies behind the success of the international pap merchants. Take heart, and just go for it! Nothing bad will happen to you, and soon, instead of looking for the menu, you'll be asking "?Que hay?"; instead of waiting for the bill, you'll say "?Que te debemos por aqui?" to the camarero who (on only your second visit) already recognises you, and, who knows, may treat you and your friends to a chupito on the house. !Viva la diferencia!

El boqueron made an eloquent appeal to travelers to GET IN THERE and try things. Such good advice. In Salamanca especially, where there are so many international students, I see the kids speaking English, hanging at the McD's. But the ones who walk in that bar and take a seat, who go to the little shops, who get on the bus and go to the little towns: those are the ones who have a complete experience. I know Spain well, so all this is lo normal for me. When I went to Italy, I discovered what it feels like to do those things when you know the language half-well. And it was great. SImilar to Spain, but the differences stick in my mind: the little pastery shops where you get sandwiches and beer (claro); the trattorias where everyone sits pretty much together at one long table, etc. A fun thing to do in Salamanca is check out all the bars in your neighborhood, find the one that feels comfortable to you, and go EVERYDAY for something. You will end up feeling like they are all your friends in there! rgf

Hey madridMan what did you mean when you said: "It IS funny to be looked over by all the old women when they turn to see who's behind them and they find this tall, white man standing there."? We might think it is odd to see a man at the store but I don't think that it was the first time they saw a tall white man, do you mean that Spaniards are small and blue? heheheeee (just kidding!)

Hi Nuria! I say "Tall, White Man" as opposed to calling myself an "American". Let's say, a "non-Spaniard" or a "foreigner". I know there are many Spaniards who are tall and many who are very white, but still they most often have black hair whereas mine is light brown. I can imagine the older ladies turning to look behind them, at their eye-level, and they're looking into my chest. They look up up up and they see someone young-ish and totally foreign, probably wearing clothing that isn't absolutely typical for Spain, and smiling like someone who doesn't belong there. hehehee..

Saludos, MadridMan

Right on, rgf! That's it, always go back to the same place that you like. Last time my wife and I went to Madrid we found a great place for lunch, so we went back the next day. The menu del dia had wine/beer included and the first day we asked for tinto de verano (full bottle of red wine plus bottle of "soda" - beat that MacDonalds!). Next day we went back we didn't even have to ask for tinto de verano, they just brought it over as soon as we sat down! I love that.

Now that I remember, as we were trying to get in this place (which was full of madrilegnos) we had to pass a group tourists who were nervously peering in. I heard one of them say "It looks like a madhouse!" and they headed off somewhere else. Who knows, maybe they found somewhere nice, but they missed a real treat (more room for us though!).

Before anyone asks me, I don't remember the name of the place! It was down a street near the Perla Austriana (?) hotel/hostal.

Ha, Boqueron, the best part is when they bring you your 'usual' order... and you wanted to change it that day!! Also, I love how if you are short of the coins, they say, don't worry, you'll pay me manyana (which I do). Only in Spain do you get this treatment as a regular... even if you are only going to be a regular for a week. So, everyone, report back after your Spain trips! Tell us where you received treatment as a regular!