Suckling Pig (Madrid & Segovia)

I mentioned to my son that I had heard a lot about roast suckling pig in Spain, and found out he had never had it during his 2 years in Spain. Any suggestions as to a place that does a good job on this dish, but would not cost me an arm and a leg? We will be in the Gran Via (Madrid) area, and there will be 7 adults eating.

[ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: MadridMan ]

Hi Artie!! Are you asking about the Gran Vía in Sevilla, Barcelona, or Madrid? In fact, I think near every city in Spain has one. Regardless, they say that Segovia (maybe they have a Gran Vía too) is THE place (in Spain) for suckling pig, but I understand Chinchon is known for it too. I had cochinillo at El Candido in Segovia, but I understand El Duque is even better for this. Postings have been made about both these places in this forum.

In Madrid at least, El Botín restaurant (just outside the southwest corner of the Plaza Mayor) is well known for this, but I understand the quality has declined in recent years with the steep rise in tourism. Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas (ALSO at the southwest corner of the Plaza Mayor, but UNDER the corner) is also known for it. I ate this here and loved it.

Hope you enjoy it.....once you get past the sight of the split open baby pig with what was left of his stomach/chest staring up at you. hehehe.. And don't "tweak" their little piggy noses. They don't like that.

Saludos, MadridMan

Sorry, I forgot to say we will be in Madrid. About how much will I be looking at for a meal such as this?

Let me say first that I envy you...

Botín's is good for the old atmosphere, but Luís Candelas is better for food. We had cochinillo at Botín, and though it didn't measure up to Mesón Candido in Segovia, it was certainly palatable, if not "good".

I wish I could remember the exact prices, but as I recall the prices were about 4000 ptas. per person (which is about $23 USD as of today). We didn't order wine, but that's about what the meal would cost, since I do consume an inordinate amount of bottled water at a sitting. Luis Candelas is actually about 1000 ptas more per person, but as mentioned and seconded, the food is a bit better. Here's a good idea: Go both places and enjoy!!! Pig out!

[This message has been edited by MadridMan (edited 02-23-2001).]

Hi Artie,

I recommend you to go to Segovia to eat Cochinillo, I went to visit La Granja a year ago and we had a delicious one in a restaurant near by. I don`t remember the name, it was not too expensive and we ate like "pigs". You can profit and visit the beutiful city of Segovia. I will come back this winter before it gets too cold.

Regards,
Celia

------------------
Airport shuttle, limousine service and car rental.
http://www.aerocity.com

artie:

well, i did a bit of research from my receipts and other collectables. the casa duque in segovia(THE city to have cochinillo), according to my bill i paid 2200pts for this amazing dish.

as for luis candelas...hahahhaa my trusty "borrowed" menu says that cochinillo is 2500pts.

We just returned from Madrid. It was as beautiful as promised. We made it to Botin's for dinner, and the food and atmosphere were great. I would definitely recommend it for a special night out. They were very patient with my fractured Spanish, and even more impressive, they were so kind with my year old grandson. All in all, it was a great experience.

Okay, having checked out all these cochinillo posts, I have to ask a rather silly question...what does it LOOK like when it arrives at your table (MadridMan, is it really a whole little pig?)? My husband and I will be in Spain next week, and I want to try it, but he's a bit put off by the idea of a plate full of baby pig. He's also one of those people who doesn't like to think about where in the food chain he is...frozen boneless chicken breasts sort of make him queasy.

So I need to be able to prepare him mentally, because I for one will try it!!
Tara

taravb (I'm SO happy you joined our passionate group!!), you can order cochinillo in several forms. Few people order a WHOLE one because it's simply TOO MUCH for one person, but it can be ordered as such for two. It would probably be served whole, lying on its back with its snout pointin horizontally and its 4 legs spread in the "spread eagle" manner. Most people order a half or quarter cochinillo. The whole piglet is really quite small looking. It probably measures about 12-14 inches.

Keep in mind that Spain likes their food to look natural. You'll see grilled fish with head and tail, calamares with the mantle (head) and tentacles, whole crabs, and octopus to name a few. Walk through any fresh-food market and you'll see what I mean too.

I, for one, LOVE cochinillo/roasted suckling pig. MMmmmm... SO juicy, tender, and delicious. (VERY fattening, of course, too) Enjoy it! I know you will. Can anyone else give a better description? I've only had it a couple of times and LOVED it both times (at Mesón Candido in Segovia and at Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas in Madrid).

Saludos, MadridMan

Tara:
You can see the whole piglet after it is roasted (if you like). At Casa Duque in Segovia, the Maestro Asador uses the side of a plate to cut the cochinillo asado and puts the cuttings on a serving plate. And what you get delivered to your table is just like roast pork.

You might do better in the Salamanca area. Its proximity to Portugal would suggest this to me: the Portuguese Leitao Asado tends to be less fatty than Spain's cochinillo asado.

[ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: MadridMan ]

Hi, taravb! There is a tiny photo of cochinillo on the Meson Candido site MM mentioned, and there's a bigger photo at this website: http://bigote.virtualave.net/caceres/Gastronomia/Cochinillo%20al%20horno.htm

If you prefer that the whole pig is not brought to your table, I'm sure you can request that. Do try it! It's wonderful!

Hi, everyone--
Thanks for the suggestions and descriptions. Perhaps the place in Segovia where the asador cuts it with a plate is best for us--I looked at the photo and can't imagine my husband trying it!! I'm not even sure I would know where to begin eating it.

As for Spaniards liking their food to look natural, I can only say that we Americans tend to be the opposite, at least in practice...so many of the foods we eat are unidentifiable as coming from any animal or plant at all! I prefer the Spanish way, I think--at least for most things. I had some of the best fruits and vegetables EVER there, and I'm sure it was because they didn't try to make them look like something they were not (oranges in nature are not all orange and waxy, for example!). We Americans seem to be happiest with food that looks like plastic!

And that piglet just looks like, well, a pig.

But I'm so Americanized that it's hard to look at that photo and think, "yum"--yet!! Maybe next week!
Tara

At Botin's, the pig is brought whole to the dining area, but is carved discretely away from the actual dining table, as such, you can see the whole pig if you wish, or just see the delicious pieces of pork on the plate.

Botin is a wonderful place, interesting history, atmosphere tops (although top floor is least favorite) but the suckling pig is for the birds and even they might not be too crazy over it. Definately not the pork taste we are use to in America. We were both disappointed. We'd go back for a different entre however.

Yes, it's a good thing to point out that meat does taste slightly different in different places. And young pork does have a slightly different taste than older pork (and it's much more tender). I guess it's just a matter of, well, taste! I find the biggest difference in the taste of lamb - I'll happily eat lamb in Spain, but you can't get me near it in America!

Diana- The only reason you don't like lamb in the US is because you haven't had it cooked by Basque experts here in California...next time you're out this way, drop me a line...you won't be sorry!!!

We just had a Basque club dinner and dance group from Spain come last weekend and the lamb was the best yet: Chops, chilindrón, queso manchego, pan and alubias. I was in heaven!!! (Sorry I didn't post for Shawn and Nicole...next time, YOU GUYS ARE COMING!)

Elaine:
The point of eating suckling pig is that it does not taste the way pork tastes in America.
O well, more for me.
Cantabene

MadridMan's Review of Restaurante Duque in Segovia

WOW! What a place!! Just past Segovia's dominating aqueduct and up the hill and on the left on Cervantes, 12 you'll find the historic DUQUE Restuarante.

Nearly as old and just as beautiful as Mesón Cándido (but without the overrated fame and failing quality - as I understand it), DUQUE Restaurante was the PERFECT place to have cochinillo (roasted suckling pig -- Segovia's specialty!). Three of us went to Segovia on New Year's Day and found the city with the Roman aqueduct as beautiful as I last saw her in 1995.

The three of us (my ladyfriend, her friend, and I) sat upstairs in a nearly empty room.. I think there were only 4 or 5 tables taken in the entire place on this New Years Day at 3pm.

We started with a plate of embutido (variados de ibericos), then a bowl of delicious and HUGE kidney beans in a spicy sauce (judiones gran Duque), and then for the entre, my ladyfriend and I both had the cochinillo asado (roasted suckling pig). And there it was on a big plate as the waiter cut it into pieces for us. I had one quarter piglet from (and including!) the ear and a leg (WITH HOOF/pata!). It was SOOOOO good and SO juicy, of course. Just delicious! My ladyfriend's friend has the cordero (lamb) - which I ALSO love, but had had recently. Afterall, SEGOVIA is THE PLACE for cochinillo!!! We ordered a bottle of the house red wine which happened to be a Rioja: Marques Arienzo Crianza , a good, basic tinto.

We finished off the meal with ONE order of Ponche Segoviano with our one coffee apiece. It was alllll good, about $30/person. Maybe a little pricey for lunch (remember, LUNCH is the big meal of the day in Spain) but it was a special visit and a special place.

UNFORTUNATELY, the one DOWNSIDE to the meal was that we were OVERCHARGED , the receipt stating we ordered two Ponche Segoviano when we only ordered one, and charging us for 6 coffees when we only had 3. These things sometimes (not often) happen in restaurants, whether on purpose or not, so BE ALERT and CHECK THE BILL BEFORE PAYING/leaving (UNlike me. Grrrr.. ). SEE THE ITEMIZED BILL HERE (98kb). <-Notice the prices are ONLY in Euros!

So that's that! After that wonderful (and filling!!) meal we walked around Sevogia and saw the sites and Alcazár/Castle. I give Restaurante Duque two thumbs UP!!!

With growling stomach in memory of cochinillo, MadridMan :p

[ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: MadridMan ]

We too went to Segovia it was most enjoyable and beautiful. I'd like to return and stay overnite. A number of nice looking restaurants around the Plaza Mayor. We ate at a place called Jose's--it was basically good, but I have to tell you I did not enjoy the suckling pig. I don't know if it was me or the way the restaurant prepared it. The meat was very fatty, tho tasty, but the awful smell/taste of the roasted/hard fried pig skin that covered it stayed with me (unpleasantly) for days. I'd say that was the only unpleasant food item in my whole Spain trip.

HEY! If for some reason you cannot makeit to Spain and still wish to taste their delicious Suckling Pig, (Cochinillo, Lechon asado), come to Miami, Suckling Pig here is everywhere, and as delicious as the Spain one, you can try that dish with the tropical version,: Rice and black beans, Ripe sweet fried plantains, yucca with mojo and Crema Catalana or Tocinillo del Cielo as dessert.
By the way, we also have CASA BOTIN here, it is the same as the one in Madrid, a bit expensive, yes, but really good.

I second Madrid Man's post on Casa Duque. We stayed in Segovia 2 nights and had suckling pig at Casa Duque the first night and Candido the second. Obviously I thought it was great.

Casa Duque was not very crowded and the atmosphere and service was outstanding. We ordered a meal that consisted of a sampling of regional foods (I couldn't bring myself to try the blood sausage) and roast suckling pig. The pork was juicy, and so tender it almost melted in my mouth. We didn't have a problem with our bill, so hopefully the problem that MadridMan experienced was isolated.

The next afternoon we went to Candide's for lunch. Service was poor - I got the feeling we were basically just one of the herd and the waiter gave my friend a very dirty look when she ordered a coke with her meal. The suckling pig was good but not up to par with the previous night's meal at Duque's.

Never made it to Botin in Madrid - there were just so many fun tapas bars/caves to investigate that we didn't have time. Guess I'll just have to go back and find out for myself!

Last Thursday, Magic Kings Day, I invited "the family" to Restaurante Duque in Segovia for lunch as a kind of Thank You for their hospitality. This is something I try to do each time I visit Madrid and stay at their house. (and eat all their wonderful, home-cooked meals. mmmm.. :p )

My ladyfriend, her mother & aunt and I walked in at about 3pm and the place was FULL. They asked, "Do you have a reservation?". No. We did not. But LUCKILY, there was ONE table available in the lefthand dining room (past the bar and to the left) so we were seated there.

I've been to Duque now 3 times and I always like since I LOVE cochinillo, Roasted Suckling Pig. Mmmm... It's ALWAYS so tender and delicous and this visit didn't disappoint.

My ladyfriend and I both got the "Menu Tipico Segoviano" which consists of the sopa castellana, cochinillo, dessert, and house red wine. My ladyfriend's mother had the cochifrito which are fried pieces of pork and the aunt had the chuletillas lechal guarnición.

Here's the bill:

2 Sopa Castellana: 12 € ($15.85)
1 Chuletillas Lechal Guarnición: 16.60 € ($21.93)
1 Chochifrito: 16.65 € ($22)
2 Menu Típico Segoviano (Cochinillo Asado): 56 € ($73.98)
2 Pan (bread): 1.92 € ($2.54)
1 Milhojas con crema y nata (dessert): 4.25 € ($5.62)
1 Tocino de Cielo (delicious dessert!): 4.25 € ($5.62)
1 Café: 1.20 € ($1.59)

Base: 112.87 €
I.V.A. 7%: 7.90 €

Total: 120.77 € ($159.47)

The meal was REALLY REALLY REALLY great. Wow. I can't say enough for it. I had the right hind-quarter (hoof & tail included, mind you) while my ladyfriend had the right front quarter (with the crinkly ear).

The place is just beautiful too and is arguably the BEST restaurant in Segovia. Restaurante Duque , for me, IS A MUST STOP & EAT place for lunch in Segovia. It's expensive, yes, ESPECIALLY if you're suffering from the poor US DOLLAR exchange rate.

You'll easily find Restaurante Duque too. From the aqueduct, walk towards the old center, going towards the right and uphill, up the old, pedestrian street of Calle de Cervantes. Almost at the top of the hill on the left, just before the street makes a sharp right turn, Duque is on the left at Number 12. You may want to make a reservation if you go on the weekend or a holiday. Otherwise, if it's a normal workday you probably won't need one. I've gone "early" before, at about 1:30pm, and the place was absolutely empty. That is, it was empty then but when I finished and left at 3pm the place was FULL!

So if you can afford it and want a special dining experience in Segovia's oldest restaurant (110 years old) I recommend Restaurante Duque. Segovia is about 1 hour by bus/car and is an easy daytrip, even only for late-morning stroll through the old part and then for lunch and return home, sleeping on the bus the whole way on a full stomach. We went by car and took the brand new tollway (5.47 € toll, I think).

EDIT: Oh, and by the way, this time we were not overcharged. In fact we got 2 of our desserts free because we accidentally ordered dessert NOT on the Menu Típico Segoviano and neither we nor the waiter noticed our error until they brought the items. And coincidentally, I had the same table AND the same waiter when I made a solo daytrip to Segovia last April. I had the same "Menu Típico Segoviano" then too. Mmmm.... :p

Saludos, MadridMan

Today a group of us went to Segovia for lunch. We'd decided on Mesón Cándido this time because last time we went to Restaurante Duque . We arrived, about 3pm, and we were LUCKY to get a large table on their terraza RIGHT ON the plaza next to the aquaduct. The table was the last on the terraza, (away from the building) so we had a GREAT view of the Aqueducto from under our large, table umbrellas.

What did we all have? Pues, ¡¡¡COCHINILLO!!! (roasted, suckling pig) I don't think I'd been to Cándido for years because, well, I've often read their quality has gone down even though they're the most famous. Duque has been better quality of late but I was quite happy with my cochinillo this time. The cochinillo was 18 Euros - ALONE. That didn't include ANYTHING. Odd? I thought so. So we ordered a large plate of fried potatoes too.

Today, luckily, in contrast to Madrid, was a nice, partly cloudy/partly sunny day in Segovia and some even complained it was too cool in the shade at our table (puh-lease! )

The five of us walked out of there after paying our 140 Euros bill. Then, we went to visit some cloistered nuns in Segovia at one of the convents. Now THAT place was COOOOOL!

Saludos, MadridMan

Man oh Man you guys are making me hungry!

I can hardly wait until I get to try it, will be a tough choice of where to go everyone seems to have thier favourite places.

Hi all, I just thought I would stick my oar in on the cochinillo subject. I too was in Segovia this weekend and ate where I always do, Jose Maria www.rtejosemaria.com. I have eaten there several times and never had anything other than superb cochinillo. It is not cheap at 19,50 € a portion, and comes on its own too, but the restaurant is always packed.

I have not tried any of the others in Segovia however, Candido has always looked too 'obvious', but Duque does look nice and I will try it in the future.

I have tried Botin in Madrid and liked it to start off with , but compared to Jose Maria the food is simply not in the same class. I probably would not eat there again, but because I now have places I prefer to go; I tend to think of it as being a tourist restaurant.

Has anyone ever tried eating in Pedraza, just up the road from Segovia. It is a small village which also has a great reputation for cochinillo and cordero. I've been once and loved it, but still prefer Segovia.

Been a bit of chat in the Shout Box about Segovia and the restaurant Candido, so here's a photo I took of it a couple of years ago. Last time I was there about a month ago, you could not get up to where I took this photo from because of obras. Anyone know if these have finished yet ?

Yup! That'd be the place (Mesón de Cándido). And for those who don't know, the Roman Aqueduct is JUST out of sight along the lefthand edge of the photo above.

Last time we "dined" at Cándido was about a year ago. Since it was such a nice day we took lunch on their large terraza with Aqueduct views. NICE!

Saludos, MadridMan

I'll add another recommendation for the Candido.

I only had cochinillo a few times (Candido, Botin from the set menu and a few other places around Plaza Mayor). To be perfectly honest, it's not one of my favorites. The meat is very tasty, but you have to dig through a lot of fat to get to it. People should realize that before they order it. That would probably turn a lot of people off. You can't help eating a lot of the fat. I'm not used to that, and it sits on my stomach like a brick for the rest of the day.

The last time I was at Botin, I passed on the cochinillo and had sopa de ajo and a steak instead. Not very adventurous, but it was wonderful.

Botin can be very crowded and difficult to get into. I found that if I arrive at about 1 pm I can get a table easily even without a reservation. At 3 pm, the Spanish lunch hour, forget it.

Actually , I love the fat ! And the skin ! I know it´s not healthy .. but to hell with it !
I have friends here that eat their beef steaks or magret of duck and cut off the fat and I´m always reaching over to their plates and taking the fat .. It has so much flavour .

steve

Yuck!

I can relate to that! The last time I was in Segovia I opted for the Corderito rather than Cochinillo. It, too was very 'fatty.'

If you even get to the Mealhada (pronounced me al yada) Region of Portugal, try the Leitao Asado, a favored dish in that region. It's the same cochinillo but somehow they make it come out much less fatty.
Maybe it's because we had it at a 'Truck Stop' along the old Lisbon-Porto highway; and Truckers can't afford to get back on the road with symptoms like dmc123 described.

Or it could be because Americans don't understand that the fruit or yogurt or cheese dessert are part of the meal that should also be consumed as served.

Sorry DMC123 ... One man´s meat is another man´s poison I guess ... The same with Morcilla .. So many of my friends won´t touch it .. Or Orejas a la Plancha , Sesos fritos ... It´s just a question of taste .
Steve

I NEVER eat the cochinillo fat but do the skin. While cochinillo or cordero are the "must eats" of Segovia, I don't know I would recommend them if this LUNCHTIME item is part of a long day of touring onfoot. You'll just want to sleep after eating!

The two restaurants, Candido and Duque, are both beautiful, however.

Saludos, MadridMan

There is a good resturant opend in my home town of Montrose Scotland , and they do a pork belly which is the closest I have came to cochinillo in the uk . They also do a mean black pudding starter too mmmm

I had some kind of Spanish pork thing at El Churrasco in Cordoba that didn't have all that fat. It was really good.

As for the sesos / brains, my father was from Asturias, and he used to eat that all the time. He could never get the rest of the family to even try it.

He was a very American looking man, and when he used to go to Spain and order sesos in restaurants, the waiters would become very concerned thinking he didn't know what he was doing. He would reassure them that he ate brains all his life.

I guess a lot of Americans order it by mistake and get shocked when they find out what it is.

Do they eat brains in any other countries?

They do eat brains in other countries but I think Spain is at the forefront of eating every part of an animal ( which I approve of , even if I don´t enjoy sometimes ) . My frequent visits to Russia can be demanding ( In terms of food ) , but that´s all part of the adventure of travel !
Well I had my croquetas this afternoon . ... Me and friends went to intercambio ( language exchange ) last night . I met my room mate at 11pm and we hit the chupitos ( shots ) of tequila with some guys from Texas , Perú and España . It was great fun ! Steve

FREQUENT visits to Russia? Sturgeon soup!

I was in Moscow and Leningrad once in the 1970s. It was very interesting, but the food was not for me. In those days you had to go with a group and eat at the same table in the same seat everyday. Everyone had the same meal.

Once I changed my seat to sit near younger people, and it was a huge issue. I was sent back to my assigned seat for no reason that made any sense.

We went to a real restaurant one time, but they didn't have anything available on the printed menu. We walked in and all the staff ran into the back, and nobody approached us. Finally we seated outselves, and they keep peeking at us from the back. Nobody came over to us until about an hour, and then they told us they only had chicken. Very weird experience.

I suppose these cities are very different now, and I really should go back just to see the difference. I hear that Moscow is the most expensive city in the world. What is that about? Why is it so expensive?

My boss from my last job was there when all the changes were happening. He was touring in Moscow and a few other cities with the singer Billy Joel who was doing one of the first rock concerts by a foreigner. They had an amazing time.

Not that this has anything to do with cochinillo or sesos...

Donna I´m going to transfer my reply to "The world travel forum" at the bottom of the message board for fear of MM rapping me over the knuckles when I see him next jejejeje .

So it's Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas in Madrid for cochinillo asado? I am renewing this topic and am hoping to get more opinions for eating roast suckling pig in Madrid.

bump...i'm going in a week and i want to try some piglets! it seems botin is overrated, so is candelas still the place to go in madrid?

also, there will be 2 of us (big eaters), is one order of the pig and one other entree enough/too much?

Suckling pig ( Cochinillo ) rates as one of my all time favourite things . Of course , Segovia is THE place to go but there are good places in Madrid too ( though I can´t remember where right now )
If you order a whole suckling pig , with entrées and maybe dessert I would say you´ll have had a very big meal . The suckling pig is very very rich and fatty ... I´m getting crazy hungry even thinking about it .

If there's just two of you going they'll likely bring your quarter-piglet to your table already on the table. If, as Steve mentions, there would be more of you they'd bring the entire piglet and divide it up among you near your table.

Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas is good in Madrid, although very touristic, but a cool place nonetheless. There aren't many place which properly make (or CAN make) cochinillo because you need a wood-fired brick oven to do it historically correctly.

I TOO am now starving! Remember, that cochinillo is typically a LUNCHTIME meal as it's very heavy. You'll definitely NEED/WANT a nap after eating it!

And as an FYI, when cochinillo is ordered it doesn't "come" with anything. That is to say, it doesn't automatically come with fried potatoes - you'll have to order those as a side dish if you so desire.

Saludos, MadridMan

ok so i guess an order of cochinillo and an order of vegetables/salad will suffice

fried potatoes=papas fritas? or are those only french fries

Patatas fritas are fried potatoes, much like french fries, yes, but (likely to be) fried in olive oil and very tasty.

A side-order of vegetables/salad would be a good addition too.

Enjoy! Saludos, MadridMan

Las Cuevas de Luis Candela is a bit touristic now, but great for cochinillo, been going there since 1971::) Another is Casa LUcio in Latina.
in Segovia its the other tourist place now but long standing from the same time and before is Meson Candido at the foot of the aqueduct.

yes correct, cochinillo is eaten as one plate along, and at lunch or if visiting one meal at night is ok too.

I am hungry ::)

Went to Segovia today to visit some cloistered nuns (really!) and wanted to have cochinillo in the downtown. The nuns told us it was Segovia's "Virgin's Day" and, because of the processions, much of the downtown was blocked off and, likely, full of people. And also, that ALL the restaurants would likely be full - unless we had a reservation - which we didn't. Instead, we went on to nearby La Granja and had cochinillo - but it wasn't the same and wasn't as good.

Saludos, MadridMan

so how do i go about ordering the cochinillo? if there are 2 of us will they charge us 2x the price of 1 order? do i ask for "cochinillo por dos"? or just "cochinillo y XXX"? (XXX being whatever else we want)

The menu will give you the prices . Sometimes they´ll say Cochinillo ( minimo para dos personas ) .. but in my time here in Spain .. often travelling alone , you can order per person ... Just order cochinillo for one or 4 persons ... they´ll deal with it .

Bear in mind that cochinillo is quite a special dish and you´ll have to get your cash ready !! IT´s something I love but don´t eat every day due to the cost . There are certain things here in España that are considered "special " . Cochinillo is on of them , Percebes ( a sort of seafood ) from Galicia , and Angulas .. baby eels from Pais Vasco . All very very expensive .