Posted by: almohada
Andalucía Trip Debriefing: Granada - 04/15/04 12:44 PM
Hi folks,
Just returning from our two week trip to Andalucia.
Briefly, family arrives from SF, Calif. We fly immediately to Málaga. Four tickets, 104€ inclusing all taxes and charges on Air Europa. Good deal, but bring on your food and drink!
Taxi to Bus Station (Wait can be long) and then Bus to Granada. Nice bus ride.
Granada was freezing!! mid 20s at night. Stayed at Macias Plaza on Plaza Nueva. 68€ for souble. Great location. Very unfriendly staff!!
The Alhambra with little kids...My little one has the dinstinct honor of having vomited (no worries, she is only 3 and we were prepared with paper towels and wipes) in two of the most enchating locations in the Alhambra (pool of the El Palacio de Comares) and the Sala de los Embajadores. As I said, was unfortunately very cold. Take note of where all bathrooms are beforehand. They could use just one more as the haul from beginning to end requires great discipline for the kids.
Taxi from hotel to the Alhambra was fixed price, but as per usual in Spain, it varied! About 3€. The little bus was 1.15€ and is a wonderful little journey as it also goes to the Albaycín.
They loved the audio guide. Get them their own. The kick knack store at the Puerta del Vino was a lifesaver as were the hot chocolate machines.
For my wife and I, we were amazed at the beauty. Cannot get over the use of the water. Brilliant.
Carlos V's monstrosity? Que feo! Worse than the chapel in the Mezquita in Cordoba. What were they thinking?!
We went two consective mornings. First morning was overcast and cold. Not so enjoyable. Second morning: brilliant sunshine...ideal for the Alhambra, as the sunlight does magical things through the filagree work in places like El Palacio de los Leones. We were so glad we had that second day.
My wife also went up at night. She gave it a big thumbs down. She was one of onyl a handful of people who went. Apparently, the folks doing the lighting have never gotten work at a rock concert! She said they simply used regular lamps. Also for the most part, the place was pitch black! My guess is that one day a creative mind will turn the Alhambra into an exnchating night visit complete with enchanting tales of the Alhambra. But now? It is being WAY undersold. But so, so glad I read Irving's book before I left. But even in the daylight, no trace whatsoever of efforts to make the Alhambra experience that much more magical. Not yet at least.
We also had a chance to go the Albaycín. Was bitterly cold, so we moved qwuickly into a tea shop near the Center for Islamic Studies. Have to admit, did not feel 100% welcome as an American, but I guess that is understandable. In general I love the tea houses. Very cool and the kids loved the little chairs )similar to shat you see in Taiwanese tea houses).
We went to a vista, the Plaza de San Miguel or something like that that had great views of the Alhambra. It was a bus stop on the 31/32 bus. From there we walked down the hill back through a really cool street, that looked like we were in Northern Africa, back down to the Plaza Nueva. Neat things being sold.
Overall, I think Granada needs to be seen in warmer weather (not the case for Cordoba or Toledo). The Alhambra is a must. We were so bent on getting there early that it ran counter to our enjoyment on the first day because it was overcast and so cold. So if you guy for more than one day, mix the times so that you can see how the place looks with different lighting form the sun.
I would also spend more time in the Albaycín. Finally, I did not find the people that friendly, which sort of suprised me coming from Madrid--where I think the folks are very friendly, esp. for a big city.
Next up, Tarifa...
Just returning from our two week trip to Andalucia.
Briefly, family arrives from SF, Calif. We fly immediately to Málaga. Four tickets, 104€ inclusing all taxes and charges on Air Europa. Good deal, but bring on your food and drink!
Taxi to Bus Station (Wait can be long) and then Bus to Granada. Nice bus ride.
Granada was freezing!! mid 20s at night. Stayed at Macias Plaza on Plaza Nueva. 68€ for souble. Great location. Very unfriendly staff!!
The Alhambra with little kids...My little one has the dinstinct honor of having vomited (no worries, she is only 3 and we were prepared with paper towels and wipes) in two of the most enchating locations in the Alhambra (pool of the El Palacio de Comares) and the Sala de los Embajadores. As I said, was unfortunately very cold. Take note of where all bathrooms are beforehand. They could use just one more as the haul from beginning to end requires great discipline for the kids.
Taxi from hotel to the Alhambra was fixed price, but as per usual in Spain, it varied! About 3€. The little bus was 1.15€ and is a wonderful little journey as it also goes to the Albaycín.
They loved the audio guide. Get them their own. The kick knack store at the Puerta del Vino was a lifesaver as were the hot chocolate machines.
For my wife and I, we were amazed at the beauty. Cannot get over the use of the water. Brilliant.
Carlos V's monstrosity? Que feo! Worse than the chapel in the Mezquita in Cordoba. What were they thinking?!
We went two consective mornings. First morning was overcast and cold. Not so enjoyable. Second morning: brilliant sunshine...ideal for the Alhambra, as the sunlight does magical things through the filagree work in places like El Palacio de los Leones. We were so glad we had that second day.
My wife also went up at night. She gave it a big thumbs down. She was one of onyl a handful of people who went. Apparently, the folks doing the lighting have never gotten work at a rock concert! She said they simply used regular lamps. Also for the most part, the place was pitch black! My guess is that one day a creative mind will turn the Alhambra into an exnchating night visit complete with enchanting tales of the Alhambra. But now? It is being WAY undersold. But so, so glad I read Irving's book before I left. But even in the daylight, no trace whatsoever of efforts to make the Alhambra experience that much more magical. Not yet at least.
We also had a chance to go the Albaycín. Was bitterly cold, so we moved qwuickly into a tea shop near the Center for Islamic Studies. Have to admit, did not feel 100% welcome as an American, but I guess that is understandable. In general I love the tea houses. Very cool and the kids loved the little chairs )similar to shat you see in Taiwanese tea houses).
We went to a vista, the Plaza de San Miguel or something like that that had great views of the Alhambra. It was a bus stop on the 31/32 bus. From there we walked down the hill back through a really cool street, that looked like we were in Northern Africa, back down to the Plaza Nueva. Neat things being sold.
Overall, I think Granada needs to be seen in warmer weather (not the case for Cordoba or Toledo). The Alhambra is a must. We were so bent on getting there early that it ran counter to our enjoyment on the first day because it was overcast and so cold. So if you guy for more than one day, mix the times so that you can see how the place looks with different lighting form the sun.
I would also spend more time in the Albaycín. Finally, I did not find the people that friendly, which sort of suprised me coming from Madrid--where I think the folks are very friendly, esp. for a big city.
Next up, Tarifa...