Just back: Sevilla

We spent two days in Sevilla, and to be honest, I was disappointed. It has a lot of great things, but I just didn’t connect with it and would definitely not go back.

Part of the problem was that in our initial bus tour, we were taken through the brand new Discovery Park and Magic Island areas. This, along with the palm trees, made it feel very Disney world-like and artificial. Even the Plaza de Espana and its surrounding area was made as part of the 1927 exhibition. After seeing this, it made it hard to appreciate the old and natural beauty of the rest of the city.
There were a lot of great things in Sevilla though. The Alcazar is incredible. We thought we were done with it after half an hour, but ended up spending another hour and a half there as we discovered courtyard after courtyard in the gardens. The cathedral is beautiful, especially the exterior, and Girolda tower offers a great 360 degree view of the city. The Barrio de Santa Cruz, the maze-like old Jewish quarter, is really pretty and nice to walk around. We also saw some great flamenco dancing at Los Gallos in the barrio. Really fun and not to be missed. Some of the other sights, especially the Toro de Oro, weren’t that great.
Getting to Sevilla from Madrid was easy. We took the fast train which took about 2.5 hours and was really comfortable.
Overall, the city has some great sights and areas. However, there appeared to be a growing poverty problem there, which was especially upsetting when placed alongside all the new glitziness across the river. Although I spent a very short time there, I just felt that the city was at a crossroads between pursuing a glitzy, modern, entertainment-oriented place or just being satisfied with all its natural beauty and incredible old sites. It looks as if it is choosing the former, unfortunately.
Sevilla is definitely worth seeing, but I know that I wouldn’t have wanted to spend another day there. That may just be me though.

Anyway, let me know if you want more information about anything I did, or if you just want to agree/disagree with my comments about Sevilla.
Adam

Adam, I agree with you about Seville. It's very beautiful, and I thought for sure I was going to like it the best but I preferred Madrid and Toledo. I liked the Santa Cruz area but didn't like the area by the river everyone raves about & the main downtown/shopping area. I can't explain exactly why, it just didn't appeal to me at all. I DID like the way Sevillanos (is that the way) were very nice people - they all seemed to be in a great mood. We were there for two nights. Saw a little flamenco, went to several little bars, toured the bullfighting ring (which was fascinating!) had fun in general, just wasn't what I expected. However, I never expected to like Madrid as MUCH as I did! I absolutely loved it. It was just an atmosphere issue - I did a lot of research on all three cities but you can't get a feel for the atmosphere until you go there. That's part of the fun of travelling, I guess. I want to try Barcelona next. But I will definitely be returning to Madrid. Spain in general is so great. It seems less touristy than, say, Italy because less Americans really understand what Spain is all about. Once you learn a little bit about it, you feel like you kind of "discovered" it. Everyone knows what spagetti is, but most Americans don't know what (or how delicious!) paella or tortilla espanola is. Or who Franco was. Enough of my rambling.

Some people are going to love Seville and it's definitely worth visiting, just not my personal favorite.

You guys are crazy! Sevilla was the best! I hope your negative comments don't turn anyone away from going there. In a trip that included Madrid, Toledo, Granada, Ronda and Nerja, I definately had the best time during my trip in Sevilla.

What I liked about it was the atmosphere. I'd heard before I went there that the thing that you enjoy the most about Sevilla is the atmosphere and I wasn't sure what that meant until I spent several days there. I'm sure it probably helped that I made several friends just before I got there and was able to tour the city with them. I'd have to say that staying at the Albergue Juvenil Sevilla was well worth it too despite the short trip to the central area.

Anyway, I saw Flamenco in a couple of bars that got jam packed and I think me and my three friends where the only non-sevillinos there. Everybody was dancing flamenco except us, it was great! I also happened to be there the second to last week in May when they had the "Cruz de Mayo" festival going on. Because of this we saw more free flamenco dancing and music in a small plaza in the Barrio Santa Cruz. It was most enjoyable with food and wine being sold outside as we watched the dancing, music, and poetry being read about why their barrio was the best in Sevilla. Maybe my experience was a good one because I happened to be in Sevilla at a good time. I hear that it is even more amazing in April for the Semana Santa (Holy week before Easter). So If you plan on going there, try to coincide your trip with one of these festivals and you will definitely see what makes Sevilla the best. All this, plus the afformentioned sites that the previous posters talked about! Although I have to say that I disagree with the previous take on the Plaza de Espana. It was absolutely beautiful, as was the park. Who cares if it was built in 1927 for the world's fair?!? It is a gorgeous part of the city and should be appreciated none-the-less (just avoid the gypsy women trying to hand you weeds).

Hint to the guys: Take your girlfriend there or better yet, an attractive woman you meet on your trip to Sevilla. It is a VERY romantic place! Take her for a stroll through the Plaza de Espana and the park surrounding it, then take her for a ride on a horse drawn buggy in El centro.

Many beautiful things to see here everybody! It beats Madrid ten-fold!

[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: azboarder ]

Oh, I don't think Seville is BAD at all, it just wasn't what I expected and I just preferred Madrid and Toledo so much more. Maybe we should have gone during a festival. What you did Azboarder sounds really cool. I am a girl (well, a 30 year old girl) and I did go there with my boyfriend and as for romance...well...we preferred Madrid! Like I said, that's just part of the fun of travelling. You never know what place will appeal to you the most until you go. You just have to have an open mind, and I hope my post or Adam's won't deter anyone from going there - It was definitely worth seeing. But that's what the board is all about, open-minded opinions. It's just like saying I like olives better than anchovies. Doesn't mean I'm telling people not to try an anchovy! Well, you get the idea... I would defnitelly like to go back during one of the big festivals and see what it's all about.

I think it's great that everyone has their own idea of what they like.

Fortunately not everyone has the same ideas on this matter or we'd all be living in identical houses, in the same place, eat exactly the same foods, and wear the same clothes to work each day... and all be on the same four lane highway at the same time on our way to and from work...

As for my personal likes... give me the wide open spaces of the country... a Spanish village where there are very few tourists... and I'm as happy as a pig in slop.

That's where the cultural history of Spain is still alive and flourishing. The kind of places where people don't bother to lock their doors because it just isn't necessary.

Wolf (Whose lair is just far enough away from "civilization" that he can run nekked across his yard, and only the wild animals who perchance spot him, need psychiatric help.)

I also took a trip to Seville this last week, and found the sights of the city very interesting. Our tour bus picked up a guide just inside the city and she gave us a very good and amusing insight into the history of Seville. First we were taken to Plaza de Espana and Parque de Maria Louisa and left to wander around and take photo's. The bus then took us on a tour of the various houses built for the Exposition. From here we were taken to the cathedral and given a guided tour and the history of it, the chapel depicting the life of Jesus was just amazing, and the Giralda was truly beautiful. You can see why it is the third largest cathedral in the world the area covers 23,500 square meters. From here we walked around the old Jewish quarter where we had a 3 course meal with a litre of wine, 1100pts each, in Barrio Santa Cruz. We then went down to river where we took an hours boat trip to see the area of the 92 trade fair. All in all the day was worth it.

Wolf - once again I find myself agreeing with you 1000%! There isn't a city in Spain I don't love - but the villages capture my heart and soul beyond belief!

Puna - who's wishing ever so hard she were in Spain right this instant!!!

I am planning to go to Seville the 1st of October after spending three days in Madrid, but I am very interested in these little villages you are all talking about. Does anyone have any advice on how to find a good one, I have been to Tosa De Mar is this a little village? I think I am going to travel the eastern coast up towards Tossa from Seville, anyone have specific recomendatons? Thanks for any help.

jesseb143 -
Andalusia is home to the "White Villages" - Pick up the Rough Guide to Andalusia - pull up www.Andalucia.com - and check under the Search function on this site. You also might want to try www.Google.com and search for Andalusia and/or white villages of ...

The villages throughout Spain are glorious but as you will be in Sevilla, at least one or two of the white villages are a must!

When you spot one that looks intriguing, let us know and then we can give more solid advise on both our knowledge/experiences, transportation means, etc.

[ 10-22-2001: Message edited by: MadridMan ]

jesseb143, try the SEARCH link above/right and type WHITE VILLAGES or WHITE TOWNS and you'll find a long thread on the topic for last year (I think). Aaaaaaaaaahhhhhndalucía....... Mmmmm.... Love it...

Adam,
What is the name of that Fast Train and where do you board it in Madrid?

How much did it cost?

Is it called AVA?

Fast Train: AVE
From where does it leave in Madrid?: Atocha Train Station
How much does it cost?: Check the www.RENFE.es website for prices/routes

Have a great time! Saludos, MadridMan

I am disappointed in you, MadridMan. Madrileños don't refer to it as estación de Atocha (Atocha Train Station); it's Puerta de Atocha!

AVE runs hourly from about 07:00 to 22:00 and prices depend on time of day (Valle, Llano o Punta) and 'Class' (Club, Preferente or Turista). Turista llano this summer was ESP 10.500 one-way - there are substantial discounts for 'same day return' & roundtrip fares.

Note to Eddie: VERY Unfortunately for me, I'm not a madrileño. That, plus I translate everything into understandable English as the great majority of visitors here don't speak/read Spanish. For the same reason I call it Retiro Park and not el Parque del Buen Retiro. Most visitors would go..."HUH?!"

I am surprised to learn that I will be in Sevilla next February (2002) instead of Paris. Believe me when I say it THRILLS me to no end to think about the warm days of February in Andalusia and the beautiful train ride south from Madrid.

I love all places in Spain. Each is unique. Sevilla is special for me because I studied there as a college student. Hence, it always makes me feel good to be back. My favorite places there: the river, the tower of gold, the Barrio de Santa Cruz, calle Sierpes, the bars in Triana and the neigborhood in Triana that is away from the river (the shopping is great as you leave the river).

Few turists would visit the neighborhood of Los Remedios, but I go there because that is where I lived for a semester.

I love everyone's comments on this forum.