Holy Thursday/Good Friday (Madrid & Toledo: Everything closed?)

I'll be in Madrid and Toledo on Holy Thursday and Good Friday. Is everything closed - museums, restaurants, souvenir shops????

We went to the Museo del Prado on Thursday of Semana Santa one year (Thurs. is NOT a holiday - it is the correr monumentos day: Visit Churches and Shrines). Another year we went to Toledo on Good Friday. It was very crowded with Madrileños enjoying their holiday. As I recall, bars and restaurants were open for business. This isn't Franco's Spain.