Camino Francés / Camino de Santiago

I haven't looked hard, but I haven't seen any chatter about the Camino de Santiago. I'm planning a bike trip on the Camino Francés for 2002. I've lived, studied and traveled extensively in Spain, but really haven't paid attention to the Camino itself. I think I'll do some recon work in 2001 when I visit family, but I was wondering if anyone had some information on the PHYSICAL geography of the road. All of the sites I've found only talk about how long it takes from point A to point B. I'm curious for some real-world info from you!

I saw a documentary on it on PBS a few years ago. Maybe you could research their archives to find the sources they used for information - one of the groups they interviewed, I believe was biking it, and trust me, a cycler defintitely wants to know the condition of a road before embarking on a long tour. You could also check out tourist companies that arrange bike or walking tours of the camino.

Hi, CaliBasco,

There is a thread under Favorite Places called Santiago de Compostela that's been archived. You'll definitely want to see it, as someone who cycled the Camino posted on it. Do a search (there's a button above to the right), and perhaps, if you add a post to it, you may want to get it going again!

Eddie mentions the book Off the Road by Jack Hitt in that thread. It's one of my favorite books on Spain. Since you have some time till your trip, do try to read it. It's all about the Camino, and is quite entertaining!

BTW, just what is the Camino Frances? Is that the Camino to Santiago that starts in France?

The Camino Francés is the Road to Santiago that starts in Valcarlos (Luzaide) about 5 km from the French border. You can see some pictures of that on my web site. Check my profile. Anyway, the camino in Spain really starts in Roncesvalles where you get your pilgrim's passport stamped. It's called the Camino Francés because most of the roads from different parts of Europe through France meet up in St. Jean Pied-de-Port, just before the Spanish border. Let me know if you find any good resources on the actual physicality of the trail. Thanks!

your link to your site in your profile isn't working correctly CaliBasco?

Thanks for the heads-up...it should be correct now. I forgot the "tilde". I'll have to check yours out when I get a second...

By the way, MissMadrid98, I thought you had a lot to offer on your site. I haven't taken the time to go all out with a Spain site yet. I have a few pics from our recent trip in 1999, and hope to get the drive (and time) to add more soon. Anyway, great site, and I agree with your feelings on El Escorial. It must have been interesting actually living in such a small pueblo while studying.

thanks calibasco for your comments, they are greatly appreciated! Actually today I uplodaed pictures on to my site and have changed a few things around and changed the URL, it is now complete!

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Spain Page!! Check it out! http://www.geocities.com/missmadrid98



[This message has been edited by missmadrid98 (edited 10-20-2000).]

I can't tell you anything about cycling the Camino but here's a URL that might help you http://users.aol.com/Tourism99/index.html
It has a map showing stages (etapas) of the Camino all the way from Roncesvalles to Santiago (copied from an Italian guidebook). In February, '99 I met a group of Bavarian Camino Guides who work out of Pamplona (met one of them again in July, '99 on a return visit there for Santiago).
Happy Trails!

I wanted to get back to my original question, as I've exhausted all of the internet resources on the trip to Santiago itself:

How would you describe the phyiscal makeup of the trail? Is it rocky, single-track, soft dirt, packed clay, paved, all of these? If it is all of these, what's the ratio? Has anyone made this trek on bicycle? How's the upkeep on the trail?

Thanks!!!! I'm a little clueless on the trail itself, even though I know the surrounding countrysides fairly well.

You may want to buy a detailed map from the Instituto Geográfico Nacional .

Another good source of information could be:

La Tienda Verde
Maudes, 23 y 38
28003 Madrid
Tel: 91 535 38 10 /
91 5330791

Hope this helps,

Antonio

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The best tips from your favourite hostal in Madrid.
Hostal Chelo at http://www.chelo.com

[This message has been edited by Antonio (edited 10-31-2000).]

I'd like to buy a map, but I would prefer some first-hand accounts of the 'feel' of the road, not just some topographic, colored cartography.

Has anyone on this board ever traveled the Camino de Santiago? Tell me what it was like, as I'd like to add some of your reflections to what I should expect in 2002.

Hi! My husband and I did la ruta a few years back. You will find every surface imaginable. We traveled paved highways, paved trails, dirt trails, muddy trails, gravel, rocks, grass, cobblestone, to practically boulders! I would say 70% of the trails/roads were great, 20% okay, and 10% down right nasty. There was one portion that was uphill and rocky. We had to walk that part to say the least. Many times you can choose to take the highway but you will miss much of the intended scenery. I purchased many books but because of space we only used "Rutas a Pie, El Camino De Santiago" published by El Pais Aguilar. It shows some of the trails' surfaces and explains what you may encounter on each etapa (stage). I took a hybred bike and my husband had a mountain bike. He was slowed down on the road- but because I wasn't as physically fit as he was, it worked out well. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Nevado-

You have been of more assistance to me in the short paragraph you wrote than all the other information I've found to date...THANK YOU!!! I've read all about the route, but until your post, had really little idea of the actual physicality of the trail. That helps!

One question, I'm planning on bringing a hardtail bike since I've read that the dual suspension slows you a bit on the road segments. What type of mt. bike was yours? As you met others, what seemed to be the consensus on the best type? Also, how long/what did you do to train?

I'm glad my info could help you. My bike was a TREK hybred and I thought it was great. My wheels were thin but tough enough to handle anything we encountered (except the boulders). The hairy ascentions were mostly on the road so I was glad I didn't have large wheels. My husband had a hardtail (which I think is fine) but his bike was a hunk of junk! Before we even got on the road his seat broke. A few days later his pedal broke off and his wheel was tweeked. We had to hitch a ride to the nearest town for some shop repairs. Luckily it didn't slow us down much but walking the bikes in the hot sun was not my idea of fun.
As for my "training" it was a big joke! I had gone to the states for the summer to work and found time to go to the gym three times to ride the stationary bike. That was it. Pretty pathetic if you ask me. And, to top it off, we headed north the day I returned to Madrid so I had jetlag to boot. My husband, on the other hand, took his road bike out in the suburbs of Madrid and rode 30 Km a day. But, despite the obvious advantage he had over me, I held my own. I'm sure I suffered more than he did, but it got better as the days passed. We didn't go in plan 80+ Km a day. There were people we met who were doing 80-120 Km daily. I wanted to take more time to visit the larger cities instead of just pass through them. We had a rest every 4-5 days. At first I thought I was going to die ascending to Ponferrada (Km 202) and then, to my disbelief, it got WORSE! The only thing I wrote to describe Kilometers 180-152 was MAL MAL MAL. In this section you have to be careful not to follow the walker's path in certain parts. I remeber the sun had set and we were on a dirt path literally no wider than 18 inches, with a huge drop into a green Galician valley, and no sign of life. I thought we had taken a wrong turn and were on some shepherd's path in the middle of nowhere. Then, finally we saw a small village with a population of 12 named O Cebreiro. Needless to say, that is my favorite village of the whole trip, for more reasons than one.
Anyway, I guess I've gotten off topic. Hope that answers your question. Let me know if you have more.

Nevado- Thank you so much for your descriptions! Your detail is helping me in more ways than one, and that of your "training" is a real helper too...

Do you have your "journal" posted anywhere where I can read your account of the trip?

Unfortunately, I don't. I basically kept notes and records in the book, alongside the map. I'm more into photo journals as photography is a hobby of mine. If you could see the photo of me when we reached the cruz de hierro, you'd laugh. It certainly speaks for itself. I remember having a heck of a time making my way up the mountain. Half way up I saw a tiny iron cross on the side of the road and thought perhaps that was it. I took a photo just in case but later found out it wasn't even close. You'll know when you get there (and so will your body)!!

I've read about it. Did you cheat and look for a rock on-site or did you leave one that you brought with you from your "native land"?

Again, I seriously can't tell you how relieved I am to read your brief account. I'm a thirty-something, and want to do this before my body says no! Something tells me when I get to the top at O Cebreiro I'll be "feeling it"

I am so envious. This makes me really want to try the trail. It is such a beautiful part of the country, and touring by bike is a great way to see things. I wasn't sure I would be able to do it.

I commute to work on my bike (only 12 miles -used to do 25 hilly miles in KC), but if you survived with minimal training, it PROBABLY won't kill me. You aren't a marathon runner or something, are you, Nevado?

How long did it take, stops and all?

[This message has been edited by Nicole (edited 11-10-2000).]

Oh, also. What kind of camera did you use, and how did you protect it from the jolts of the rode. I have an old pentax that I can't do without, takes great pictures, but I am scared to death to "hurt" it. It has enormous sentimental value.

I was 27 when I did the trip. I am no marathon runner!!! I guess I would consider myself in good shape but not toned. I don't get much exercise other than walking and climbing stairs (I loathe the gym), so if you ride your bike to work you'll be fine. Remember, there are all kinds on the trail. Some took their cycling very seriously and others, like myself, did it more for the adventure and to see the sights. We started in Puente la Reina and took 3 weeks in all. Some serious cyclers would laugh at our pace but I wanted to spend some time exploring the cities instead of racing through them. There was one day that I demanded we stay in a nice hotel so I could treat myself to a hot bubble bath.
As for the camera, you're not going to like my story. It was a nightmare. I took along my SLR and two lenses. On the bike they were fine- no problems with the road. The problems I encountered off the trail were sad. We were in Sahagun and realized we needed to buy blankets because of the chilly nights. At the store, we had the man cut the blanket in half so my husband and I could each have a twin size. As he was cutting them, he bumped my camera, which was on the counter, onto the floor. I almost cried. Needless to say, it was dust. I sent it home so I wouldn't have to carry it around anymore. In Astorga I decided to buy a cheap automatic camera because I thought it would be better than the disposable one I was using. Immediately after purchasing the camera,we went to the Palacio Episcopal by Gaudi. As I was purchasing the tickets, I set my brand new camera on the counter. Boom! The man handed me my tickets, hit the camera, and it plummeted to its death. Not even one picture on it. I went back and bought another one. A few days later, after staying at a hotel the night before, I went to get the camera out to take a picture. Nowhere to be found. I had left it in the hotel 30 miles back. There was no way I was riding 60 miles to get it and just moved on, purchasing disposable cameras for the rest of the trip. It was so sad! My pictures of Santiago are nasty. Luckily, since then I've been back to Santiago a couple of times to retake the photos I missed out on. The nice lady at the hotel sent my camera to me in Madrid. The last picture was of me in the tub! Point of the story- don't take your camera if it holds sentimental value. I'm sure no one would be as careless as I was but you never know.

Yeah. In fact, that sounds exactly like something I would do. i am terribly clumsy (bad depth perception or something, runs in the family), as well as being awfully absentminded. Just last Saturday I broke down and bought myself some clothes (while I wait for my shipment to get here from KC) and a nice bike pump. Then, I proceded to put the bag on top of the car - and drive off. Bye bye new purchases. never regisered til I got home...

DO you have any suggestions for a decent camera for a trip that wouldn't be outrageously expensive. I hate the disposables. I used to have a little Olympus, and actually got a couple of good photos out of it, but nothing really stunning - the nicest thing about it was the size. It was so small and light I could put it in my waist pouch.

That is some serious sad sack about the cameras! What a racha de mala suerte you had with that! Do you remember there being any albergues with internet access? I've thought about bringing my digital camera and just uploading the photos to e-mail or something...

Also, I don't believe you when you say your pictures of Santiago were nasty...that's impossible in a city that beautiful!!!

Nicole- We have one of those small Olympus cameras (Stylus?), and agree...very good and very small. I have a larger Olympus, but since I got the HP digital camera, I rarely use it. Saves on film space and cost too...

None of the refugios (sorry, I misled you by saying albergues) had internet access - at least the ones we stayed in. We were lucky to have hot water! Things may have changed in the last three years but I seriously doubt it. Many of them run on donations and whatever money they may receive from the Camino association. You may be able to find an internet cafe in some of the larger cities. I don't recall seeing any but I wasn't really paying attention.

Nicole- I think I've owned every small camera ever! I don't think any particular one was better than another. I had an Olympas stylus, Pentax, Minolta, etc. I bought my last small one two years ago. It's the Minolta Freedom Zoom 140EX. It had the longest lense I could find, that's why I bought it. It also has a glass lense unlike most others. But, the most important feature is the 5 year extended warranty!!! Won't make that mistake again! I've found that the camera (especially the small automatic ones) is not as important as the film and processing. Take the same negative to 5-10 different photo labs and have them all make the same reprint. You'll be amazed at the difference in color. If you have a mid-range automatic I'm sure it's fine.

Hee hee... I love the fact that they're called "refugios". That sounds like a lean-to with a thatch roof that barely keeps the cold out!

If you're wondering if your choice of season to make the trip was correct, go to www.crtvg.es and click on the O Cebreiro web-cam...I did last night and decided that I would NEVER go in November (at least not on bicycle!). It did look peaceful and beautiful, though.

Wow! That's crazy. Well, that pretty much sums up the whole village. The building to the left is a hostal/restaurant with a lovely couple running it. I stayed there once in April and got up to a blizzard. It was freezing but very peaceful and picturesque. The albergue was brand new when we stayed there. It was 1st class.
Thanks for the link.

If anyone else is interested, I've found a number of great sites about the camino, and got a great book for Christmas on the camino. It's the Pilgrimage Road to Santiago, by Davidson and Gitlitz. It's a great read and even if you're not planning a pilgrimage, it's chock full of history, presented in a palatable format. I can't stop reading it! On the other hand, I got a copy of another guide by William Melczer, which his horribly boring! The Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago de Compostela belongs on the "compostela heap". I recommend the former for usable information.

Anybody up for a pilgrimage in spring 2002?

Thanks for the recommendation, CaliBasco. I'm going to add The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago to my list of books to track down. I'm currently reading Davidson and Gitlitz's first book together, A Drizzle of Honey, which is quite good, although some of the information is getting repetetive. (Being a half-cookbook, half-history book, I guess that is an understandable danger.) I like their style, though. Good to hear they have another good book on Spain.

WARNING: I may have jumped the gun on the poor review given to Melczer's book. I was reading through it and found a redeeming quality this weekend: It has a good translation of the Codex Calixtinus, which is an early account of the road. I've enjoyed that part of the book, but the other recommendation is overall the better book. Just in case anyone's interested...

I recommend the Pilgrimage Road to Santiago (by Gitlitz and Davidson) and for those who will be traveling anywhere near the road. It has EXCELLENT information on the sites, sights, and history of the towns along the road. Since it was written from a walking pilgrim's perspective, it's very detailed. If you're going to be in Leon or Ponferrada, Burgos or Santiago, get this book. It may just help you plan a side trip to some of the smaller pueblos along the "Camino". Happy trails!

If you prefer to take a step back and see what someone would've written on the MadridMan board circa 1325 A.D., I suggest you read the translation of the Codex Calixtinus in Melczer's book. It is absolutely amazing to me what the authoer of the CC wrote about Spaniards, Gallegos and Basques. Those who received the harshest treatment? The Navarrese.

I know that there are a few casual observers from e-groups who haven't registered on this board, but I have another question, and I'd sure appreciate any input:

It looks like I've recruited my suegro to come with me in 2002 on the camino. One of his big questions is the cost of the trip. I believe we'll be on the trail for about 3 weeks. I was wondering if any of you who have done the trail (especially on bike) could give us any ballpark figures on total costs. I know that the albergues are fairly cheap...okay, DIRT cheap. But what are some of the hidden costs, like the entrances to chapels, churches, claustros and cathedrals? I'd welcome any tidbits on costs of bicycles and gear, too!

Thanks!

Oh, boy, CaliBasco, I see you've been punning it up here, too. Compostela heap is good! Now, when sleeping in those dirt cheap refugios/albergues, remember why they are called dirt cheap... yup, the dirt you are gunna sleep ontop of IS cheap! MM- do NOT fear, I promise not to put puns anywhere except up Sancho's punz thread.

Hola! Glad you pulled this back up. I've been feeling a little "fat" lately and perhaps this will inspire me to get back into shape. Any of you interested in knowing, the camino will put you into superb shape for about 2 years! No joke! (especially on the ascent to pun-ferrada, that's for rgf) Anyway, Calibasco, to give you some cost tips... the refugios were either free-500 pesetas a night. Food can be cooked in the refugio for a minimal cost. Many times you can get with other peregrinos and make a big meal (200 pesetas a person plus 100 pesetas for wine)! Gotta love Spain. If you don't buy anything except the necessities, you really can do it on 1000-1500 pts. a day. As for Cathedrals etc., they tended to be free to 250 pesetas. Not all charged a fee, some were just abandoned or semi-abandoned and part of the camino's history. Bigger cities such as Burgos, León, Astorga, and Santiago, charge a fee but I'm sure guidebooks could help you out with current costs. Put it this way, I spent more on café than I did on entrance fees.

I would allow for a night in a hostal/pension/hotel every so often. If you go during peak months, you may experience difficulties finding a spot in the refugios. In September this happened to us 2 times in 3 weeks. We also opted to stay in hostales/hoteles a couple of nights when we weren't (or shall I say I wasn't) quite up to staying in the available refugio. Santiago was one of those places. After three weeks of biking, finally reaching our destination, I had no desire to see another refugio! It was my treat, shall we say, to stay in a nice place!

Here's a tip- when you get to Santiago, go directly to the "Pilgrim’s office" to get your official Compostela. They will give you an official certificate for having completed the ruta. Go and get photocopies made and take them to the Parador de los Reyes Católicos. If you're one of the first 10 registered, you qualify for free meals in the worker's quarters. You can get hearty meals and you don't have to pay a dime. When we were there, there weren't even 10 people signed up. You can eat for three days if I'm not mistaken.

As for gear, here's a list of what I took:

*Two pairs biking shorts (padded) You can buy the underwear with a pad and just wear it under regular shorts. You'll have to wash it daily though! I took one pair of the padded shorts that weren't the stretch kind. They were nicer because I could just wear them around while sightseeing and didn't look as funny. But, everyone expects that you're doing the ruta so it really doesn't matter. I got mine at REI for about $35. They have an annual sale in August (I think) and you can get some great deals.
*One pair of long biking pants (lycra)
*tee-shirts
*biking gloves
*sunglasses
*biking shoes- I ended up wearing my biking shoes all the time. I thought they were more comfortable than regular shoes.
*shower shoes
*biking helmet
*wind and waterproof jacket (I took the Anorak type that fits nicely in the pouch- also from the REI sale).
*lip balm
*sunscreen
*First-aid kit Make sure you take something for sore muscles and for blisters!
*cotton socks
*towel
*Swiss army knife (with corkscrew and scissors)!
*something for cold nights such as a blanket or sleeping bag. Not all refugios provided blankets and it does get cold.
*Flashlight (I took the kind that fastens to the handlebar and is removable so it didn't take up space in my panniers).
*bike racks ($20-30 each)
*panniers- I spent the most money on these. I purchased them a couple of years before the trip and wanted to buy the best. I bought (what I thought were the best) the Jandd Panniers made in Santa Barbara. They were quite pricey at the time. I'm guessing on the prices as it was so long ago but...oh, you're in luck, I just found my receipt (it’s from 1995). I bought the handlebar pack ($50), two front panniers (the no-frills ones at $60/pr) and two of the Jandd mini mountain panniers at $72/pr. I highly recommend the handlebar pack because it conveniently holds your documents in a handy clear compartment on top, has mesh pockets on the sides for wet, gooey items, a front pocket for stuff, and then the large compartment for things you’ll need during the day. Once you pack those large panniers up for the day, you don’t want to have to go back and fish items out of them. You can remove the whole thing when visiting monuments and just leave the other rack panniers on the bike. The Jandd panniers conveniently snap together and have a leather “handle” so they can be carried together, which makes it nice when turning in for the night. I found that they were very “peregrino” friendly because you’ll be packing and unpacking daily. They are also water-resistant which is a plus in Galicia. I never had anything damp at the end of a rainy day. Also, they have reflective strips for easy visibility. Obviously you can find much cheaper panniers and it’s really up to you. Also, you don’t have to get both front and back panniers. Since I was unsure of how I would fare with the weight distribution, I decided to go with both front and back. My husband only used back panniers and he didn’t seem to have a problem. Just make sure you take some bungy cords along to strap things to the back rack. Another handy item is the stuff-sack. I used those for my clothes and just dropped them into the pannier. That way your not fishing around for loose items and you can really pack the stuff in. Also, you can strap one to the rack when you get overloaded. I recommend taking two.

Here are some more items you’ll need:

*spare innertubes
*spare spokes with spoke key
*spare break cables
*pump
*lock
*flat repair kit
*tools
*the usual clothes and toiletries.
*BIKE- any decent bike will do. As I stated earlier, my husband’s bike was a piece of junk and he survived. I’d take something sturdy but it doesn’t have to be fancy.
I hope I didn’t leave anything out.



[This message has been edited by nevado (edited 02-11-2001).]

Nevado, what a thorough and wonderful aid you've just given to all those (NOT ME!!) who want to bike the Camino. Now, you say you can get free meals in the Hostal. *I* always heard, from native gallegos, that you are entitled to 3 nights of a room (yeah, more like a refugio room) for sleeping, too. Do you know anything about that? As for me, I take my out-of-condition middle age self right into Santiago on a bus from La Corunya, head to the Hostal for a coffee in the lounge/lobby, then visit the Catedral and admire all the fit folks who got there some other way, then head to a good restaurant... you get the picture. Truth told, tho, I'd love to do a GENTLE camino tour. There's a company called PATHS TO SPAIN or something that organizes nice ones, but I think they are expensive.

WOW! I am totally impressed with this thread! Where else on the 'net can one find SO much useful firsthand info on Camino Francés??!! I'm adding to Calibasco's subect line "Camino de Santiago" to make this wonderful thread more complete.

There was a GREAT segment on The Travel Channel (USA cable TV) about El Camino de Santiago and the young woman made most of the trip. And wow! Some of those refugios were just as CaliBasco described them on his 11-13-00 posting, "...a lean-to with a thatch roof that barely keeps the cold out!" The woman on the program shared a "room" (term used loosely) with several others and the bedo was actually a cot and was very cold she said. She too stayed at a hostal/hostel every few nights just for warmth, warm showers, privacy, etcetera.

Thank you all, especially CaliBasco and Nevado, for making this thread ever so useful for EVERYONE thinking of making El Camino!

Saludos, MadridMan
(P.S. I moved this thread to from General Chatter to the "About Spain" forum - hope you don't mind CaliBasco)

[This message has been edited by MadridMan (edited 02-11-2001).]

All hail Nevado!!! Thank you so much for posting that info! There is no post too long as far as I'm concerned. I was looking for practical info on the panniers, and you came through. I was also considering buying a new bike, and I may rethink that. At any rate, I'll be printing out your post and memorizing it for a while.

A note on the Reyes Católicos: You are correct with the meal thing. In the older days of the pilgrimage, you could get lodging too, but that has gone away with the advent of the modern pilgrimage, and its accompanying masses. No worry though, as we plan to pay the $$$ and treat ourselves to at least two nights at the hotel!!! We'll have earned it!

Please keep posting...anyone with info. I plan to keep a copious journal, and post liberally next year as I do this. I hope to inspire someone else to try something like this. Maybe we'll meet somewhere on the road...

Years ago, I visited Santiago de Compostela and saw pilgrims sleeping in the Cloister of the Basilica (on stones, in their sleeping bags). That's where pilgrims are provided a place to sleep, not in Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos (regardless of what Gallegos have told you). The stones are cold and hard; and everyone has to be out with all their things by early in the AM (9:00AM, I think). As for meals - no breakfast, continental or otherwise. It's according to an old Church rule requiring the Basilica to allow this if the people identify themselves as pilgrims. The plus side: you may be sleeping on the grave of a King or a Bishop.

I've stayed at Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos and at the Hostal Hogar San Francisco (about 200m away). At HHSF we had the Cotolay room, a 'special' room where the 'Provincial' stays when he is visiting. I found the latter to be a better value than the Parador (if it is adequate for you, of course - it has a large (Queen Size?) double bed and a small sofa/day-bed). And you can always walk to the Parador for their buffet breakfast (a 'big deal' for some people but about like a Marriott buffet breakfast here in the U.S.). I found the buffet breakfast at Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos very costly.
BTW
The last time I was there (July 25, 1999), King Juan Carlos I and Reina Sofia and their entourage had 'taken over' the Parador. It was Santiago in the Año Júbilar Xacobeo.
P.D.
When I visited Santiago in Feb '99 (for An Troido) there was a group of Camino guides staying at Hostal Hogar San Francisco. They were on a 'familiarization' trip. Most are mountain people from Bavaria & Austria and they appeared to me to be very fit. They are 'based' in Pamplona but I don't know the name of the group or company that handles their 'bookings.' I struck up conversation with a few, and they all seem to be fluent in English (probably more than Spanish). My own assessment: If I'm going to be lost on the Pilgrims' Trail in a strange country, these are the kind of people I would want to have with me. The ladies, like the men, are what one might expect to find on a mountain-side in the Austrian Tirol (definitely NOT the Maria Von Trapp type) herding or milking dairy cows - the Brunhilde-type, if you can relate to that.

[This message has been edited by Eddie (edited 02-14-2001).]

So, Nevado, did you buy your bikes in Spain or did you transport them from the U.S. This is my big question in a bike trip I would like to do in europe.

At one point I had brought my bike to Spain, but it was years before the camino. My husband already had his there. I had no problems whatsoever with it getting damaged although it was a bugger getting home from the airport in a taxi, in the rain, with other heavy pieces of luggage. Anyway, there are certain regulations on transporting a bicycle on an airplane. Some airlines allow you to check it in as a piece of luggage, others charge. I chose my airline according to their policy. You can pick up a bike box at your local bicycle shop and use that to pack it in. You have to take off the wheels (deflated) and turn the handlebars (loosen them first). I stuffed towels and clothes around the gears and delicate parts. The airline will tell you exactly what to do. Make sure you have tools and knowledge to do minor repairs or are able to find someone to help you. You've mentioned biking before so I'm sure you are able to take care of your bike in most situations.

I really envy of all you have done, I keep on telling myself that I will do it next year and you know,...

These are a couple of sites of the topic:
- Oficial site of la Xunta http://www.xacobeo.es , a bit too official.

- Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago de Madrid,
www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Shores/8972/
very practical but I'm afraid that this one doesn't have a full english version.

[This message has been edited by MadridMan (edited 02-20-2001).]

Just in case you're wondering:

I got a note from jdowney today. She's walking the camino as I type no doubt. She seems to be doing well in spite of the blisters. Apparently she's alone now, as her father has headed off to Madrid. Her first epistle from the road was a little disheartening, as she said she was trudging through mud and that the road was actually closed after she got out. Keep her in your thoughts...especially those here in LA who've had the chance to meet her.

If anyone's planning on taking the Camino de Santiago, I suggest hooking up with jdowney and picking her brain. It sounds like she's really getting her fill of amazing experiences! Ultreya jdowney!!!

[ 05-17-2001: Message edited by: CaliBasco ]

Hey Calibasco, how's the planning going? I just thought of a couple more things you should consider taking with you on your trip. I took a couple boxes of energy bars/Nutragrain bars for those afternoon pick-me-ups when you don't want to stop and eat. We really only had breakfast and dinner while biking. I'd have a bar and fruit for lunch because I knew that if we stopped for a Spanish meal we'd never make it more than 15 Km. a day, not to mention the wine! I've ridden my bike drunk before in Ireland and believe me, it's not fun (or easy) OR SAFE! Couldn't resist those pints of Guinness while watching Spain womp all over England. (in the olden days)!
Also, I'd suggest Gatorade gum- I'm sure it doesn't do anything for you but it was fun. Take some powder for drinks- Gatorade or some of those energy packs (those blue ones- can't remember what they're called). I made one water bottle with the drink and another with just water. It was a nice boost on hot afternoons. I'm not sure if I mentioned this before but bring some spices along in zip lock bags- it will give your cooking some life after 3 weeks of eating pasta! Perhaps you could take some packets from fast food restaurants too, sugar, lemon, mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard, etc. They will come in handy! You can then trade the space with things you pick up along the way. Make sure you take some sort of detergent in a ziplock as well. More small things like shampoo in tiny bottles, hotel soaps, etc. lighten the load as you use/discard. Practice riding with a full load so you get used to the weight distribution and play around with what you're comfortable with and where you handle your weight best.
When are you going? I want to go!!!!

Thanks for the tips Nevado. The more I post on this the more I salivate over the trip. I'll be leaving next April. We actually should start and finish within that month. I'm planning about three weeks, with two of them on the bike.

I'm planning on bringing PowerBars (I know one of the spokespeople so I get them either free or super-discounted). I just picked up a Camelbak pack for water/fluids. I rode 100 miles last weekend in the MS 150 bike tour, and that was a lifesaver. I'm fairly certain that water is available regularly, with all the small towns, etc. Do you have any practical info on that?

Since I'm sure it will be raining in the mountains (and Galicia no doubt), what would you suggest for rain gear? I have some thoughts, but wanted to know if you knew anything that did/didn't work for you.

At this point it looks like two for sure, and most likely three riders...you're welcome to come along, ¡el camino es ancho!

Thanks again for your help...!

Hola, and thanks for the invite! Unfortunately, getting three weeks off in April is next to impossible but I'll be with you in spirit! I'm actually thinking of squeezing two weeks in during Semana Santa to go biking in Vietnam. I'll have to see about that. I may be in a more hang on the beaches of Bali mood by then.
You sound like you're on your way handling 100 miles in a weekend. Keep it up and you'll sail through the camino.
Water is readily available in the towns and there are numerous fuentes along the way to refill.
Since you're going in April, you should really be looking into snow chains for your bike. I was in O'Cebreiro in April and there was a blizzard. Hope you don't hit crazy weather like that. As long as you have good panniers your stuff should stay dry. You could always pack everything in ziplocks and hope for the best. I just took a rain jacket with a hood and looked like a fool in the rain with my helmet over the hood. I wore lycra pants and just dealt with it. I suppose you could get some rain pants but you're probably going to get soaked and muddy regardless. You may need to stick to only paved surfaces during the rain because some of the trails could get messy. I just hope it doesn't get too cold for you.
Let the countdown begin!

Okay...now you're scaring me! I remember your report of O Cebreiro... Although I was born and raised in Minnesota, my blood has thinned considerably since moving to California.

What kind of footwear did you use? I'm glad to hear that water is in rich supply. Perhaps in light of your comments we'll plan to start a little later in April and maybe go to the first week of May. I think I'll consult with family in Spain, too...since we'll be starting at their house in the Pyrennees.

I wanna go too!!!!

Hey everyone, I'm back...too much work lately. Anyway, the shoes were just Shimano biking shoes, nothing fancy but extremely comfortable. I think they were around $70 way back when. If I wouldn't look like a fool, I'd love to wear them to work!
I think it would be wise to try and hit the end of April/early May. The later the better. Could you imagine biking on ice? Now that's a horrid thought.

Biking on ice? Three words for you Nevado: Paperboy in Minnesota!

Nicole- What's stopping you? Let's go!

Be careful! I just might take you up on it!! I have great friends and a beautiful, sweet boyfriend, but I can't picture any of them willing to trek in the rain of northern Spain on bike.

Cali, did you join up with a bike group in L.A? I have been searching for one on the internet; just to get out and practice on the week ends (although I commute to work often by bike, it isn't very far,and I find myself pretty undisciplined on the week ends).

Telepolis.com is a great Spanish portal with lots of interesting contents.

They regularly make some research on a specific subject and compile a list of links. One of these monográficos is about el Camino de Santiago .

Hope you enjoy Telepolis.com as much as I do. It's one of the Antonio's favourite sites.

Regards,

Antonio

[ 05-25-2001: Message edited by: Antonio ]

Nicole- I've been inviting whomever want to join in! We're planning now on mid- to late-April of 2002. Plenty of time to save some ducats and get in biking shape! If you've got the inclination, I think you should do it! I've got one other friend already confirmed, and another about 90%. We'll watch out for you (probably the other way around... .)

Let's discuss when we get together with the other LA'ers next time! (Maybe we should have a Dinner Group-slash-Lakers Championship party!!!!)

woo hoo!

I wanted to post some thoughts from jdowney. I've been following her pilgrimage via e-mail for the last few months, as she's been kind enough to put me on her e-mail list. Here are a few excerpts from her last e-mail. She made it to Santiago over this last weekend:

»I have made it to Santiago and so much has happened. When I last wrote I had only two days left and then I would be in Santiago. And, that is when the rain came. Unbelievable rain. Rain so thick and wet that at first I thought it was hail. It was almost impossible to see anything and since I did not bring any gore-tex clothing, only a plastic rain parka; I was soaked in a
matter of seconds. My first thought was to try and walk it in one day because it was obivious that the rain was not going to stop. That would mean walking 40 Kilometers with my pack and I almost did it. But, my body and feet gave out at 36 Kilometers. The road into Santiago is up hill on small, narrow, mostly dirt trails; You meet people
throughout the camino and then lose them along the only to find them in the end. (I have already been to several celebrations).

»The next morning I awoke at 6:00am and walked the last 4 Kilometers into Santiago. It took me only an hour to make it to the church and that includes getting lost in the city. (The theory is: Whenever lost, just walk up hill and you will find your way. It is mostly true). It was amazing to be at the
church so early in the morning. I saw no one and was susprised to find the church doors open. With my pack on and my smelly pilgrim clothes, I walked into a mostly empty church. It was then that I saw my first old friend. A man and his wife, both from the states, were in the process if saying
goodbye to Santiago when they saw me. They asked me if I had a place to stay and when I said no, they took me to their hostal and set me up with a room. We then had a wonderful breakfast and talked until they had to leave to catch their plane. At this time, the alberque in Santiago is closed and in the process of being remodled. So all pilgrims must find refuge in hostels, hotels etc..

»That first day is kind of a blur. When a pilgrim arrives they are to go to the Peregrino Office (Oficina del Peregrino) and register. You then recieve your certificate and they ask you which mass you will be attending. At that mass, the priest announces your arrival to the people attending. For example, he said "Starting from St.Jean Pied-de-Port, USA, 1 persona". It is really very nice. The 12:00 mass is for pilgrims and is everyday. They did a special swinging of the bucket with fire and incense. I am not sure what it is but
it took six men to pull the ropes and swing the bucket high into the air. It was really amazing.

»Today, Sunday 17th of June, I went to the 12:00 mass again along with about 100 pilgrims. And, again recieved a very nice surprise. A priest from Holland who walked with me for three days and is my age, was officating at this mass. I was lucky enough to be in the second row and wearing my
signature yellow rain jacket and matching yellow sandals so he saw me almost immediately. Seeing him perform parts of the ceromony gave this mass a whole new feeling for me. It was like watching an old friend. I was very proud of him. When I caught up with him shortly after the mass, he told me that I was one of people he had been waiting for and that when he saw me in the crowd
it was the first and only time he fell out of his priestly presense. He actually smiled and waved to me from the altar. It was very nice.

I hope you've enjoyed this latest installment as much as I have. I asked her if it was okay for me to post, and she said sure, as it may help others who would like to do the camino. By the way, the "big bucket" is called the "botafumeiro" and is as she states "large". Traditionally, the botafumeiro (incense burner) was swung in order to stave off the smell of the arriving pilgrims. As jdowney pointed out, things still get a little smelly on the road.

I'll try to post a little more later as it becomes available.

I just got this e-mail from jdowney this morning. She's added the trek to Finisterre to her pilgrimage. I've decided to include the entire text of her e-mail, as it is representative of the adventures, challenges and friendships you can (and will) experience on the road to Santiago. Enjoy!!!

»Hello Everyone,
I made it to Finisterra and it was tougher than walking to Santiago. While I did not have torrential rains, I did have blazing sun, huge mountain peaks, fallen trees and unmarked trails. This trail probably most resembles what pilgrims in the middle ages walked.

The way to Finisterra is in three parts. The first day 34 Kilometers, The second day 37 km and the third day 22 km. According to the tourist office in Santiago there is no other way to walk to Finisterra.

The first day was the most difficult. The trails are not marked and it is common for all pilgrims to get lost, which is exactly what happened to me. Like most pilgrims, I got lost getting out of Santiago. It seems that children have played with the signs and arrows and pointed them in many different directions. It was not uncommon to get to your next destination only to find four arrows pointing north, south, east and west.
Everyone I spoke with who had walked to Finisterra did not see another person on the trail. It was not the same for me. During that first day, I saw four other pilgrims, two on bikes and two on foot. After walking for six hours, mostly wondering if I was going in the correct direction, it was nice
to see other people. The two other walking pilgrims were two men in their 70´s with rucksacks heavier than mine and who walked twice as fast. They are from a small Spanish island called Mallorca. By the time I ran into them, I had gotten lost twice on the mountain and each time I had to double back.
The forest was thick with brush, wild flowers, eucalyptus and oak trees. My legs and arms were scrached and red. The same was true of the two men. At one point I had to climb over trees and then underneath them. It was a wild trail. Once it just seemed to end into a field of wheat and it was almost an hour before I was able to find the trail on the other side of the field. Water was also difficult to find. Not all of the towns have wells and some had only non-potable water so I had to be very careful. By the time I reached my destination it was 8:00 in the evening but the sun was still high in the sky. I had been told by the tourist office to stop at the local bar for food, drink and directions to the alberque and while the bar owner was willing to give me directions to the alberque, he was not to interested in serving me drinks or food. He told me that the alberque had beds and hot
water. He was wrong on all accounts. This alberque is an abandoned school house. It had extremely dirty tile floors, disgusting toilets, no hot water, and one sink. The lady in charge of cleaning the school house for pilgrims was stashing all the trash in a closet so the place did not have the nicest
smell. I was there for about two hours when the two men (Pedro and Benito) from Mallorca arrived. They too were very astonished by the condition of the place and had been told the same story by the bar owner. I had uncovered a thick green carpet in one of the rooms and laid it out for all three of us
to sleep on. The men swept the floors and I cleaned the sink and semi-cleaned the toilet. Pedro received a call on his cell phone and told his wife that he was staying in a five star hotel and that she too could be enjoying this if she had only come with him. Neither Pedro or Benito speak any english and their Spanish is a catalán dialect so it was difficult to understand them at first. Somewhere along the way they decided to teach me Spanish and to keep an eye on me.

Day two started with my two new traveling companions waking me up and telling me it was time to get started. Benito measured distances by restaurants. He was always talking about food. There was only one restaurant or town along the way that would have services for us and it was at our half
way point 22 Kilometers away. Needless to say, Benito was not a happy camper. Walking that day was very similar to being in the Rocky Mountains. We climbed three mountain peaks of heights up to about 2500 feet, we crossed a river much like the one in the Grand Canyon and walked among huge oak and pine trees. It was truly an amazing day and I thought that it might not ever come to an end. Benito and Pedro arrived at the half way point about 40 minutes before I did and had already ordered food. They then slept for almost two hours and told me to do the same. Benito kept repeating "tranquila" and told me not to worry that it will not get dark until midnight so we have plenty of walking light. He was right but I have to
admit it was very funny to wake up on the sidewalk outside of the restaurant with Benito asleep and snoring in two chairs and Pedro snoring in the grass on the side of the building. After our long nap and food we hit the trail again with renewed energy and arrived at our destination at 8:00 p. Our arrival was greeted with the most incredible view of the ocean and a tiny
fishing village from the last peak. From there it was all down hill. But, this was another difficult town with no arrows or signs for the alberque. We were misdirected by several towns people until we finally arrived at our sleeping quarters. This time it was a soccer stadium and we were housed in the locker room. This time we slept on a hospital beds and had a hot showers so this place was five stars as far as we were concerned.

Day three seemed like a breeze being only 22 kilometers and it was mostly flat with only rolling hills. We walked into Finisterra and right through it another 4 kilometers to the light house where the pilgrims go to burn some of their clothing. It is considered the end of world and it truly feels like it. The guys were trying to talk me into burning my boots and everything else I had on. It was really very funny. After a small snack we headed back down to Finisterra and found the alberque. And, much to our surprise it was
very nice. We felt like royalty. Amazingly, five other pilgrims arrived who we never saw on the trail but who had also walked. The guys tried to talk me into walking with them further but I have decided to go back to Santiago via the bus. A pilgrim friend, Michael and I are going to go into Portugal for two days. I might be a couple of weeks. He is a theology student from Mississippi who received a grant to walk several different trails throughout Europe. We have nothing in common but the gift to gab. It should be another adventure.

PS- Benito and Pedro invited me to their home in Mallorca to send a month learning Spanish. It could be fun.
-Jill

I hope this account helps someone out there get a feel for the trail. Jill has already helped me more than any of the guidebooks have with a REAL account of the physicality of the road. I'm stoked for next April!!!

I am so glad you posted that. It sounds incredible and makes me want to run off and have my own adventure. very inspiring.

I was thinking about your bike trip tonight as I peddled from Venice Blvd up to UCLA, hoping not to get killed by angry motorists. I can imagine the lush green of Northern Spain with a lovely breeze coming in off the coast. Sitting down for a hearty, fresh seafood dinner and a glass of wine after a long day of biking or walking sounds like heaven. I can't wait to hear about YOUR trip.. only a year to wait!

Yeah...and these will be the longest 10 months of my life!!!!

Wait 'til you're on the trail, you'll have the longest day of your life!! Viva Ponferrada! Thanks for posting her
e-mails!

Greetings from the Camino. I´ve been in Spain now for several weeks, and haven´t been checking the board, but I´m now in my beloved Jaca, which is on one of the caminos to Santiago, and I´ve been thinking a lot about you guys. On Wednesday at mass in Jaca´s Iglesia de Santiago I witnessed the special blessing for the pilgrims in attendance (they usuallly have about 10 a day at the 8pm mass), and yesterday, as I drove down from a little farm towards town I passed a tall, thin man with a white beard walking alone along the road (towards the west, claro) wearing a backpack and a nice big shell around his neck. Well, I got a little emocionada... Although I feel no great desire to do the Camino myself,at least at this point in my life, I find it fascinating, and I admire you guys out there who have done it or are planning it! I´m staying with a very old couple who were telling me this morning at breakfast how they put up some peregrinos who were doing the camino by bike when the albergue was full. They were doing the camino to get information for a report on whether or not the pilgrims really did get treated well. (This happened many years ago.) They wrote back when they were finished, raving about how wonderful it was, and how well treated they had been. Hope you all have as good an experience!

Well, I'm less than three months away from my own pilgrimage and have a question: On another thread, there was mention made of a "menú de peregrino" at Mesón del Cid in Burgos. Is this something that is fairly common on the road (discounted pilgrim's meals)? I assume that if this is the case, all I'll need to do is show my pilgrim's passport and get the "deal on the meal".

Does anyone know anything about this???

I'm so excited for you! How's the training going? We've decided to give it another go this summer. I can't wait! I'm not going to train this time like I did before (the three pathetic trips to the gym) and just show up and hope for the best! We're going to do the ruta in reverse this time (with a pit stop in Pamplona to "ride" with the bulls) and head to the Tour de France to ride with the big boys!
Watch out Lance, I'm a commin'.

Two weeks from today I'll be on my way! I've found some great resources along the way to give me more information on the nuts and bolts of the camino. Try this website for those of you who would like to know what the "albergues" and "refugios" are all about. (in Spanish, sorry.)

http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/

The site has nice PDF versions of each stage, pictures of some of the refugios and basic information on amenities, things to see, etc.

I've actually downloaded all the information onto my HP Jornada, which will make a handy e-mail editor along the road, hopefully cutting my time at the internet cafes from composing to simply downloading and posting!

Cali.
I was just thinking about you today...wondering how you are doing with your preparations. You must be SO psyched. My husband has wanted to do the Camino for such a long time and I know he is so interested in hearing all of your thoughts and impressions. Buena suerte...y que te vaya bien. esperanza (Hope the Galician weather is on your side!)

hola peregrino/a calibasco
I walked from St Jean to compostela and all I can say is 'Buen Camino' and 'Ultreya'

I have happy memories of meeting many cyclists on the route, short but sweet!
I do believe the walkers and cyclists share pretty much the same type of terrain. I know this because they would often make me jump out of my skin when they would say BUEN CAMINO!!!from behind, and sometimes I would meet them in the next refugio ( of course they arrived much earlier)but anyway, ULTREYA!!!!!!!

Esperanza (and others): I was just thinking yesterday (as I shared a lamb dinner at our Basque family reunion!!!), if there is anything that anyone wants me to focus on in particular on this pilgrimage route, please let me know (before Thursday!). For example, my first post wanted to know about the physical makeup of the trail, not just where it goes.

I'll try to keep a keen eye open for you and do the best I can. I feel like I'll have 2500 people there with me in spirit!!!

Guess who's in Spain as he is typing this????

That's right...the pilgrimage is now under way!!!

WOO HOO!!!!

And I've never seen you with so few words Cali!

Have a fabulous time. After 18 months planning, there shouldn't be a detail missed!

Enjoy those bumps!

Jo

Happy trails, Cali!!!!

Keep us updated as you can...

Tara

Hola Cali, I am touched that you were thinking of little ol' me! I was thinking of you all week and sending you lots of good thoughts; and I guess you got them! I am really looking forward to your impressions and insight into the Camino and all that it signifies. Have a BLAST every step of the way. Un beso, Esperanza

Short - sweet - and really excited! That, Cali. is a first - especially the 'short'. You know, the 2500+ of us will be waiting for a blow-by-blow - or, as Jo said "bump-by-bump", description of the entire trail when you return. A guide to 1)What the Camino is like; 2)How to do it; 3)Off the beaten path (or more so); 4)How you really feel - and I'm not referring to physical ailments by that; 5)pictures - more pictures and more pictures!

So rest your keyboard fingers over the next few weeks - and plan on giving them plenty of exercise when you get back to CA.

Have a super super time -

I'm with Puna. It will be GREAT to have a (another?) firsthand account of the pilgrimage from someone close to all of us here. Can't wait to hear about it!

Hello All! We´ve had two days of nothing but rain, but we´re moving forward. I don´t have a lot of time to write now, but we´re in Estella, and our legs hurt, my back is stiff, and I love being here! Everytime we pass someone we say¨"Ultreya" or "buen camino" and it all seems so familial. Cars honk at us an wave, and I realize what a great thing this is, and that those who can´t do it themselves do it through people like us.

I´ll send more later...thanks for thinking of me, and MM, I´ll try to get that call into your ladyfriend on my way back!!!

Saludos a todos, y ¡Ultreya!

Cali - you're an inspiration to all of us who have thought, talked, or dreamed about doing the Camino. You sound unbelievably happy - despite the sore, tired, sodden feet and aching back!
Saludos - ' 'n keep on truckin'

Ultreia! WE MADE IT TO COMPOSTELA! I´m sitting in a ciber right now in Compostela, it´s about 10:45 p.m., and we´re sooooo happy. I´m sure I´ll have more time upon my return to post some sort of nutty thread title like "CaliBasco´s Camino Crap" or something, but for now, rest assured that we´ll be happily dreaming of pilgrimages past in five-star comfort tonight in the Hostal Dos Reis Catolicos next to the cathedral. Vaya alegria!!! We even arrived a day early! We´ll be here two nights and will enjoy every minuto of it.

We averaged 47 miles per day, and let me tell you, Euskadi and Galicia are the two best parts of the trip!

I´m loading up on turron, queso, tortilla española, filetes and patatas. Sorry, MM, I´m not a drinker, so it´s only been La Casera with EVERY meal! I´ll be stuffing a couple of liters in my carry-on for some nourishment on the trip home.

If anyone out there has ANY questions on the camino, I´m no expert, but I do now have the experience of having done it, and would be happy to share my experiences and suggestions with anyone.

Thank you to all of you who have helped me, especially Nicole for the use of the panniers. They performed de maravilla, and I owe you big time...to all of you others, I appreciate your encouragement in the form of your supportive posts, etc. and private e-mails.

To Shawn: I´m sorry I didn´t call you when I was in Leon...I´ll explain later...I didn´t even get to see Marian, either!

My next post will probably be from the states... I MADE IT!!!! And I LOVE SPAIN!!!

Miche: I forgot to tell you that I lost count of the number of walkers who I caused to "jump out of their skin" as we came up behind them with a "buen camino". I know exactly what you were talking about!!!

Also, we had a nice emotional moment this afternoon as a group of wheelchair-bound folks arrived in Compostela. They all congregated in the center of the Praza do Obradoiro and let out the most heartfelt and wonderful cheer. The camino is truly for everyone!!!!

One more thing: If you want to see me or where we´re staying, click on the Gallego television web pages at

www.crtvg.es/ingles/camweb/primenucamarasflash.htm

Click on the Obradoiro Square option. I´ll plan to be out front of the Parador (the camera scrolls left to right every minute or two) at about 9:00 a.m. tomorrow (Friday) SPANISH time. Although I won´t be naked, I don´t know what I´ll be wearing...but I will probably be the only kook waving!!!

CONGRATULATIONS, CALIBASCO!!!! YOU MADE IT!!!! Wow.. that is REALLY wonderful and WE are all SO fortunate to have you here to tell us all about it. Where else on the web can we have SUCH interaction with a REAL peregrino and hear about the nitty-gritty details firsthand!?

IF ONLY I could get myself out of bed at, what, 3:00am Eastern USA time to see you at the VERY place I was standing only 6 weeks ago. Mmm.. What a beautiful place you are visiting now and I'm sure you have seen MANY beautiful things along your camino. Way to go, CaliBasco. Congratulations. We're all very very proud of you.

Saludos, MadridMan

YAY FOR YOU!!!!!!!!!! I can't wait to hear all about your trip! glad my panniers could be of service :p

GOOD FOR YOU!!!! And congratulations! Your comments on the wheelchair bound group brought tears to my eyes. We all anxiously await the step-by-step re-inactment of Cali's great trek!

What a wonderful feeling it must be to have REALLY DONE IT! I am so thrilled for you and cannot wait to hear your perspectives on the Camino, the places and the people! Enjoy every second and CONGRATULATIONS

Cali,

Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us. CONGRATULATIONS It is very awe inspiring and a great reminder of the beauty of the human spirit!(Sorry, I'm kind of in that kind of mood, today...)

But can't wait to hear about the rest...

Wyndyl

CONGRATULATIONS CALI! (Just to show I can do it too!)

I looked on the web cam at 8.15 am this morning (UK time) just incase you were visible, but sorry, couldn't see anyone with the MM tattoo.

Enjoy your extra day.

Jo

Cali,

I'm happy you made it! Good job! Next time around "don't take the bus!" That's the easy way!

I keep thinking about how we were all supposed to get up at 2 AM Central Standard time to watch you do your "jumping jacks" in the square. I didn't make it... I was bugging the covers. But I did look in at about 6 AM our time and saw a figure loping along towards a bike, then getting on and riding away -- wearing a yellow slicker -- and in my mind, I decided that was our own Cali -- off to see more sites.

I'm anxious to see the pics you took, and hear about the trip. It must have been fantastic! We were all riding with you like you were Lance Armstrong....

Bravo!

Wolf (Who's as exhausted as Cali just from thinking about the trip he took - )

Good Going!

I'm back in the U-S-S-A...and after I defeat the reverse jetlag (I sure hated coming to work today...), I'll be busily transcribing my journal for Internet use, and then posting it on one of those free web-hosting sites. Does anyone have any suggestions for one that is less interested in pop-up ads and more interested in you getting your info to your friends?

A few final thoughts: As the Swiss crew handed out fresh hot rolls to us on our flight, I cried real tears knowing that it would be until my next trip to Spain before I had good bread again (a thought that was driven home as I prepared a sandwich made from Albertson's loaf bread this morning...yeech!) . Everyone who goes to Spain must eat a Bollycao. Yes, everyone. Any country that can take Nocilla and inject it into a hot-dog bun is a country I can love. I brought home a two-liter bottle of La Casera, but don't know if I should spray it champagne-style over my Lance Armstrong Trek bike, or just chug it for dinner . And the last thought: I've converted my two riding companions to Spanish tortilla AND natillas. I think either of them would hop a flight for just another round of either.

Thank you all again for your support. As I read your congratulations this morning, it was further made clear to me what a great thing MadridMan has started here, and how we all truly love Spain in the same way. You folks are the best!!!

CaliBasco [who is looking forward to filling out his belly so that his belt buckle "fits" again into the last hole...]

Way to go! Can't wait to read the journals.

hey CaliBasco! good to see you made it home ok without being run down by any Spanish busses Be sure to post big and large when you get your travelogue posted somewhere.

thanks again for sharing your experiences from a 'biker's pov'....I think I will stick to other means of travel though

Leche, funny you should mention getting run down...the biggest challenge I had came from a Renault 7...I forgot to look both ways and almost left my heart in San Francisco (outskirts of Burgos). [Although the incessant kilometers of truck traffic into Logroño was a close second on the "will I live through today" scale!]

ha! I guess that's what you get when you combine so much pedestrian traffic (bike in your case:)) in a country with skinny, windey roads and crazy drivers. I was actually rolled along a building wall once when a bus driver got a little too close turning a tight corner!

¡En hora buena, CaliBasco! I sure hope you visited the Oficina de Perigrinación and picked up your La Compostela which you earned. You write:
I am disappointed that you didn't include either Cantabria or the Principality of Asturias (where a man can get a decent meal: Fabada Asturiana o Cocido de Liebana) in that group.

Calibasco, CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!

I have been reading many of these posts, and it seems amazing! I have wanted to do the Camino for awhile, but unfortunately haven't been able to be in Spain long enough the past few years (short visits and besides, lots of family!) but it looks as if the end is near and I'll soon be able to plant myself over there for good. I have a couple of questions for you:
From the route in Spain, where does it start?
What are panniers?
Approx. how long does it take to do the route?

Thanks and happy trails!
Espe3

For Eddie: I love Cantabria and Asturias [I call it Fabadalandia ] as much as anyone else, but they weren't on the route...look closely...I knew I had to qualify my choices as "on this trip".

For Espe3: Depending on who you ask, the Camino Francés starts in two different places (we're leaving out the stretch that comes throught the Somport Pass via Jaca...): Either in France at St. Jean Pied-de-Port (Donibane Garazi) or in Spain at Valcarlos (Luzaide). I feel that since Valcarlos is the first Spanish town inside the border, that the road truly begins there. Remember that the road has many twists, and the actual walking trail takes you over the top of the mountains, almost entirely missing the town of Valcarlos. Too bad, since it's really a neat little place. The main road goes through Valcarlos, though, and it IS a stop on the camino. That was my first stamp in the ol' pilgrim's passport.

Panniers are saddlebags for your bicycle that attach to the rack over the back tire of your bicycle. Some good places to start for looking for these are at www.rei.com and www.jandd.com. Nicole loaned me her bags (Jandd) and my riding pal had REI panniers, and both performed well.

The road from the border, via Valcarlos-Pamplona-Logroño-Burgos-León-Astorga-Ponferrada-Sarria-Samos-Santiago is about 500 miles (we got a little "lost" a few times and ended up with 521 total miles). This is roughly 800 km. This route is considered the "French Road" and there are probably a dozen or more other roads...this one just seems to be the principal route through Spain.

I hope this helps! And Eddie, the next time I'm over at your house, I'll expect a hot bowl of fabada with extra tocino!!!

Thank you Calibasco! But approx how many days did it take you?! And I'm considering going by foot, did you meet anyone along the way who was trekking it? How long did it take them? I think I'm going to start researching everything I can now so that I've got good information for when I embark!

Espe3: We met all sorts of walkers (they are the majority). Try this website for a good starter's itinerary: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/

I believe they have something like 30 stages. Plan for at least that many (you average about 3-4 mph on foot, regardless of weather and terrain), so divide 500 miles by thirty days and you get about 15 miles...divide by three and you're walking five hours a day (more or less)...since you leave the albergues at 8:00 or earlier, you're into your next destination by 1:00 or 2:00 (when most albergues open again), plus you've had some stops along the way...

Many pilgrims will start in Roncesvalles (phony start point :p ), which would take a day or two off your total if you so desire...but you wouldn't see Valcarlos, nor would you climb the Ibañeta pass! It took us eleven days to complete our trip. We rode about six hours per day (averaging about 9 mph).

Ultreya! and Buen camino!!!

Thank you Calibasco! I think I'm going to have to get over my biking fear and 'pedal' my way there (ejjejje I made a funny!). I'll def. check out that website!

Hola Calisbasco, enhorabuena!!!!!!!!
I loved following this thread and experiencing the Camino again. It's funny how O'Cebreiro is such a highlight for so many pilgrims on the trail I have a few photos of those glorious mountains just after a sunset, which i will never forget. I often laugh when I remember my feelings once I had arrived after a long trek it was a strange day so many mixed feelings, a tremendous 'bajo' came accross me mixed with wonder and awe of the beauty of the luscious valley before O'Cebreiro, the little village and peaceful stream, the sheep, the humidity etc,etc,
but once i had reached the mountain edge and set eyes on the view I had the strangest feeling that if I died there and then it would be at my most happiest and that i had seen all I wanted to see.
Luckily, I found my friends and shared a few tears they had felt the same! (a relief) thought I was loosing it there. The day ended with some young Spanish ones strumming a guitar singing and dancing with the mystic, misty mountains as there stage for a world class performance, (an ability I envy of the Spanish to break out into song whenever, wherever).
It's at this point I have to snap myself out, I do this by remembering the funny things like when passing between the bulls on a narrow path i remember looking into the eyes of a bull thinking 'alright mate'! and just when I thought i was safe the bastard slapped me in the face with his tail which was covered in bull s***! ahghh jejeje. Or the time I was on the phone to my loved ones and a dog (same colour as my bronzed thunder thigh legs) decided he was in love with my calf and proceeded to show his affections with a grasp of which I could not shake myself free of, locals were having a giggle but a nice lady helped me by gently slapping the beast of who was salivating at this point. jeje
Or that time a friend and me arrived at the wine fountain and.... ooops here I go again!

The path is a mysterious one, plotted i believe, according to the Milky way and a bright star which leads the way to Compostela and it is for this reason many believe the 'Camino' to be charged with an energy like no other. And it is at this point where the energy of the Camino becomes the personal and private 'Camino'while on route and for the rest of my life.bla bla bla One night I had the misfortune of not arriving at a refuge in time and had to sleep in the countryside, but this turned out to be my fortune, .. the moon the stars oh and some left over red wine.
'A pie', there is something in the pain, suffering, simplicity and humility that when shared, comes a most wonderful love and compassion. This is the 'Camino'.
Thanks everyone
Menos agua y mas vino - asi es 'el Camino'!

It sure is great to read all these posts about the Camino. Thanks, Calibasco and others. My husband and I are planning a choir tour of the Camino for summer 2003. His community choir will sing at various churches along the way, and my dancers will also perform. No, we won't be biking or walking, though we do plan to do that some day. So, if there are any San Diego members who like to sing, or who want to tag along, email me and I'll give you more info. At any rate, if anyone is trekking or biking the Camino late June/ early July 2003, maybe you'll catch one of our performances. No, MM, this isn't a business venture. Just a couple of artists finding yet another way to get to Spain!

wow, this post just brought me full member status!

For those of you interested in the Camino to Santiago, here is a wonderful article to read, dated Saturday, January 4th:

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/G...amp;slug=TRCOVE

enjoy, and happy travels!

Great article! I think when I have a little time for reflection I'll be able to write something more than a travelogue...as my experience was filled with similar experiences.

My pilgrim partner has said that he would like to finish the Camino in July of '04, as he left the Camino in Ponferrada last year...leaving my other friend and I to a pilgrim's duet. I think I'll join him!